That canister is for your rear ABS.
That canister is for your rear ABS.
i know right? idk if im gonna tryin weld them up, or just dimple eash hole in a little bit, & use this underwater
fairing filler for sailboats that my dad uses, stuffs even petroleum resistant. ive used it to replace shifter bushings
on my e30 and covered in grease theyre still tight 5 years later... not big on filling holes but i dont know if heat
is gonna be a good idea on that paper thin roofskin. i dont want to warp it any worse than it is already.
ABS? then its outta there! what does that line going inside the cabin go to??? i havent and am not sure if i want to
pull that rear interiour panel off...
if i am indeed going to remove that rear load-sensing proportioning valve contraption, as i believe i am, then
i was curious if i should keep the x2 lines that go back to the rear axle, or just run a single back and tee it
to either side???
Trace them, but you might need to find a way to tie them into each other
ill take some pics later and see what things look like. tanks bru
heres a lil more on the wipers....
i still hafta flange the two panels and spot weld them back in, think i got the linkage correct as well.
Attachment 22133 Attachment 22135
you can see the harness in this shot, the two leads that go to the engine are almost centered on
the firewall, so it should flip over and swap sides pretty easy.
Attachment 22134
20190320_225547.jpg 20190320_225510.jpg 20190320_225526.jpg
idk wats up w these pics
been lookin at the rear brake lines a lil more, i appears that one line gets T-ed from the front caliper lines
and a 2nd line comes out of the rear (closest to booster) master cyl port, drops down next to the line
coming from the front brake line and both go back into the rear load prop valve.
makes me think that the valve might sned more pressure from the front circuit when there is a heavy enough
load in the bed. the ABS canister thing must be there to keep them from getting enough pressure to lock the
rear wheels im guessing... ill have pics in the early hours or tomarra some time.
still waiting for the steering box.........................................
wiper linkage done:
20190323_070024.jpg 20190324_073053.jpg
flanged the motor mount & blank:
20190323_065831.jpg 20190323_065948.jpg 20190323_065916.jpg
and spot-welded them on the panels:
20190323_080801.jpg 20190323_080726.jpg
drilled out the surrounding firewall:
20190324_025121.jpg 20190324_025114.jpg
i didnt get a shot of them in place and i havent welded them in place because
i have yet to cut the new blower intake, but i did remove the intake lip thing
you can see it in the last pic where its getting moved to. im just going to use
adheasive seam sealer and just glue it in place rather than of spot welding it,
the lip and the new rain gaurd that goes above it to keep the water from going
into the blower. once i get those installed ill weld in the panels & blend it all
in with filler then fair it in so it looks like nothin happend....
ah yes and the brake lines. heres the lines as they are minus the master & booster
i still havent gotten shots of them down the frame & to the rear end tho...
this is the cluster of splitters after splitters:
20190323_083225.jpg 20190323_083242.jpg 20190323_083303.jpg
im sure that because of the lack of updates your expecting a shit-ton of pics
and progress to have been made... unfortunately thats not the case.
so as far as the steering box i ordered 3 weeks ago, heres the message i got from the
doucher wet-hand i purchased from:
"I just received back and a fine of £200 because cwas leaking oil...I wrap again cand send it tomorrow better drain"
in short i said that this is crazy, i want pictures of a shipping receipt, tracking number, and proof of expidited
shipping. otherwise im turning this over to ebay for refund. totally amateur far as im concerned. i hope he did get fined
if he cant drain a steering box and put it in a couple plastic bags and newspaper before boxing it up. what the hell.
im kinda pissed about this.
But regardless of the bullshit, i ordered a Tundra front brake rotor for fittiment on monty here.
my findings were fruitful-ish:
So my first issue was that the toyota rotors bolt on in-between the hub and the wheel, where the mitsu rotor bolts to
the back side of the hub.
Now, 1st i wanted to see the offset of the toyota rotor hat as well as the rotor hub diameter to make sure itll
clear the mitsu hub and sit at roughly the same spot as the stock rotor.
20190403_215019.jpg 20190403_215004.jpg
and the tundra rotor sits at the same spot as the mitsu rotor, the tundra going on as it does on toyotas,
in between the hub and the wheel.
the only thing thats going to need modification is the mitsu hub itself, which is quite a bit bigger diameter
than the inside of the tundra rotor:
20190403_215305.jpg 20190403_215221.jpg
but there is more than enough meat on the hub to machine it off and still have plenty around the studs,
which might need to get swapped out for longer ones...
20190403_214751.jpg
i havnt gotten a caliper to play with yet, but im hoping that the rotor being close to the stock position,
and the fact that the 4-piston tundra calipers dont need slider pins, hopefully itll be straightforward to make
some adapter brackets to mount them up. ill post up more when i get a caliper.
great.
idk what happened to the text color.
hope you like squinting
I think that if you copy and paste from somewhere else, like an email, it keeps the black ink like the original. and then everything else you write after that stays black.
If you want, you can fix. Click the edit button on your post, highlight the black text and then click the button on the toolbar with the big letter A above, then choose white.
I'm not a donator yet I don't have the edit function available at my disposal...
Soon tho I'll be flush & plan on sending some funds in, I'd rather NOT have the little donator badge honestly
So I got another box en route from Britannia, from a proper breaker. Expedited DHL shipping supp to be 3-4 days
But I'm not holdin my breath after last 2 items from the Anglo isle. I'd be super amped if it got here by next weekend tho
Very little progress, I got a few things done but not much. I'll tryin take some pics that arnt too lame in a while.
Fingers crossed you finally get what you've been chasing
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F'in A.
I didn't purchase it til Thurs afternoon, and Friday is a holiday obv, but the UK has Monday off as well....
No worries tho long as its here by next week I'll be satisfied.
Pickin away on things every evening as much as I can b4 I pass out sitting down staring at the truck in the early morning hours.
I'll post those pics from the other note shortly, padres blowing primer next door where the computer is next to.
(Not that they are really worth the time to post/view but, my ambition is not at a high rpm at present.
so like i said, very little got done, but i glued in the block off's for the left-most wiper hole,
as well as the brake booster:
20190420_234026.jpg 20190420_234210.jpg
i plasma'd out the blower motor port, but theres a bracket spot-welded up under the
dash holding it i place, i have to drill them out and itll all pop out.
next i have to glue the rain gaurd/lip thing down around the blower inlet.
20190420_234008.jpg 20190420_234832.jpg
this is the adheasive that im using on these things. marine grade should keep the water out.
20190420_234727.jpg
heres the steering box mount points, minus the front upper bolt
you can see the bosses are actually each a piece of pipe that goes all the way through
the framerail and is welded on both sides. so i hafta cut out the rear-most boss and move it back
about 1/8 inch, which is a small amount for all this work i will admit. but being that they are welded
in lengths of pipe, i cant oval them out, and i dont want to use a smaller diameter bolt.
with the plasma cutter and the MIG it wont be but like a 45min job.
20190420_234415.jpg
The only foreseeable hang-up will be the longer arms on the idler & steering box.
if i cant make them clear things as-is, im going to see if the arms off my OE max idler & box
can be swapped onto the newer mkIII L200 idler & box. if THAT fails, ill hafta move BOTH the
frontmost 2 box mount bosses instead of the 1 rear boss, or possibly even all 3 of them forward
to clear the longer arms (i have a sneaking suspicion that between the box and the arms that the
steering ratio mite, hopefully, be smaller lock to lock....) but i could also see mitsubishi just re-using
the same ratio box and just changing the arm lengths of the box & idler to decrease turns.
im pondering what to do about my radiator support now. im going to have to seriously modify
the existing headlight surround to go from the square headlites to the round ones.
the yellow marks are where the adjuster holes need to be, and im gonna hafta cut out the parts
in white outline to fit the montero bezels & corners.
20190420_234534.jpg
so im leaning heavily towards scrapping the entire OEM radiator support & making everything
custom from new steel stock. i think itll save alot of time & look good too.
more to follow, somtime
well DHL sent me a txt message w my tracking info,
it got picked up in the UK yesterday, and they're stating a delivery date of TODAY by end of day....
unless they put it in an F22 raptor or somthin & hauled it over specially for me i dont see that happening.
Although id be thrilled if it were so.
...somehow I think they are being optimistic of their freight abilities
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it says it was in East Hartford at 2pm, so it mite actually be here today.....
im very very surprised. i dont know how they skirted customs but for having left
Rotherham UK yesterday. im quite astounded.
its 730, i dont know when DHL ends its day, but im thinkin its gonna be more like tomarra....
regardless when it gets here, im probly gonna pull an all-nighter and at least get the idler arm & box
installed, and get the steering column & wheel swapped over. i think thats do-able for a 10hr evening.
then ill still have to flip the engine harness over so the fuseblock, column & gauge/dash plugs are on the right hand side,
and i shud prolly tryin move the clutch pedal, master and line over b4 or at the same time as the steering wheel, along
with the throttle pedal, but it mite be humorous NEEDING someone in the old drivers seat to work the clutch & throttle
while i steer and stop to move it out of the way for work in the morning....
soon as its here ill take a cpl pics and probly tryin get it on asap.
finally.
box.jpg
It looks pretty crusty, nothing a date with a wire wheel and maybe some new hardware won't rectify.
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130AM update
taking a brake for dinner.
good news thus far, the box fits the 2 farthest holes front to back,
20190426_013400.jpg 20190426_013414.jpg
so i can get the box and idler arm bolted in with 2 bolts each for now, and focus on moving the
column over as well as the clutch and throttle pedals.
hes some crappy shots of the right and left sides:
20190426_013614.jpg 20190426_013552.jpg
so ive got like 6 hours to do the column, clutch & throttle.
and itd be nice to flip the harness over as well but im not gonna get overly-ambitious.
gotta go times a burnin
Way more complex to set up compared to converting a RWD truck. Looking good though - nice work
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