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Thread: brakes

  1. #1


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    1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    brakes

    let all get some talk going about the stock mighty max brake system....I know one question a lot of guys wanting to bag the ride asks....what up with the spring thing under the bed.....If im correct it is the proportioning valve...I want to do away with it and do away with the aluminum distribution blocks under the hood....any one have anything to add here....tell us what you did to your ride...pics would be great.....Im planning on buying a new adjustable valve from summit racing, what im not knowing ..is it full master cylinder pressure to the front disks? If so then ill just come off the master to a valve to the rear, splitting to each wheel.....also add another driver cylinder to the pass side for bleeding.... Does this sound right?

  2. #2


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    here is a pic...the front 2 lines go to the front brakes...one goes right to the driver caliper..the other goes to one of the distribution blocks..i didnt trace it yet but i think it goes to the prop valve in the rear under the bed.... the rear line goes to the block then to the rear prop valve.....



    here is a pic of the distribution block i want to delete...


  3. #3


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    the one in the back is not a proportioning valve but a pressure valve. it keeps the fluid from leaking back into the master cylinder. if you remove it your brake peddle will feel squishy and you will lock up your front brakes all the time. you can get a inline replacement from summit that are a set pressure. I've used them some rods and customs I have built. or you can get an ajustable one from Willwood that is a proportioning valve

  4. #4



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    Stick with stock. The only time you might think of changing around the proportioning valve or the way it works is if you go from stock to a larger or smaller braking surface. If you have a surface of 10 Sq Inches and go to 20 Sq Inches on the rear or front then you will need to change the ratio around. Other than that I would stay stock. There are some that are weight adjustable like on a ford F450. But that is needed to cray the extra weight. There needs to be a residual pressure in the system. It keeps the pedal up. I have them on my system. Mine also has an adjustable proportioning rod. I can change the relation between the front and rear. But If it was a stock system I would stay stock. I have no power brakes ether. That makes for a very large change. I now have a 14 to 1 ratio on the pedal and 16 to 1 in the rear calipers and 21 to 1 on the fronts. It will take me days to get it set for the street, and the same time for dirt.
    The best thing to do is relocate the stock equipment and just hide it.


    Residual pressure valve. --------- proportioning Rod. It moves a shuttle left or right inside the tube. Changing the ratio. Front to rear.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by camoit; 12-11-2011 at 11:13 PM.
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  5. #5


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    i used one on my s10 when i went to disk/disk....so one of those will work, i think i also put check valves inline as well. I am planning on a toyota rear end, so i really want to do something different....Not sure how this stock set up will work on the yota brakes...

  6. #6

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    The contraption in the rear is a load sensing prop valve.. When weight is added to the bed while towing or hauling it changes the brake bias since their is a load in the bed. If u lower your truck u need to adjust this otherwise it acts as if there is a load the bed. At least on the second gen trucks anyway. You just loosen up the lock nut and move it.

  7. #7


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    if i re located it i would neede to move it under the cab somewhere...there for im looking to delete it....I know it has been done with success, I have not been able to locate the thread on one of the 3 forums ive read it on...and the thread i found some info was on SSM and it didnt go into detail enough..im sure someone will chime in hopefully..I believe i remember someone using a neon master, i guess it bolts up to our 2nd gen, then a prop valve from summit was used...ill keep searching.

  8. #8


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    lets ask this...guys that did toyota axle swap...what did you do?

  9. #9



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    I want to say there still resolving the parts issue. If the slave cylinders are the same size and the shoe has the same measurable lining surface (or within a small amount) as a stock truck. then move the adjustable valve and hook a cable to it and make it manual on the fly adjustment. Would aid in drifting. Full rear brakes then a quick stab on the pedal and throttle it up.
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  10. #10


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    when I did the Ranger 7.5" axle swap I didn't change anything and the rears worked fine. Since then I have upgraded from the 9.5" X 1.5" to a set of 10'x2" off an Arrowstar and didn't have any problems with that set up either. Not sure if a sec gen is different but works fine on a first gen.

  11. #11


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    I found this on another forum...this is what im gonna try to do i think...
    "On my ram50 I used a non anti lock brake master cylinder from a 94-99 Dodge neon. The non abs ones have porportioning valves coming off the master cylinder. Then you can run new lines or just tap in to the existing lines. You have to cut and re-flare the ends to screw into the neon one. I put all new lines and got rid off the load tensioner in the rear and replaced the rear wheel cylinder on passenger side to a driver side one so it would also have a bleeder screw. The master cylinder bolts right up to the D50 brake booster you just have to turn the center pin out a little bit. I don't currantly have pics but can get some for you."

  12. #12


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    I just read a great artical about the "load sensing prop valve"....we all knew this......it adjusts the rear brake pressure according to the load in the rear of the truck...IF ANY SUSPENSION other then stock is added...the valve MUST be adjusted accordingly...failure to do so will result in bad breaking....I guess that why i went thru front brakes in 5000 miles after i dropped 5/7....Wilwood tech said to just cut it out, add their single in and single out manual valve. The line that goes back to the front, cap it off or remove it....Ill be able to use my stock set up, just replace the valve and do some line rework....They said it is "ONLY" for "OFF ROAD" use...the manual valves are not D.O.T....but he said he personally have done it on several Ram 50 off road rigs...no problems at all....toyota are the same he said.....well i think there is some good info in this now...

  13. #13

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    Hmm, when offroading in my 1984 Toyota the rear brakes like to lock up, which is a little scary sometimes. I still have my prop valve off of my 1987 Mighty Max

  14. #14



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    Rear brake lock up can be caused by the shoes being put on backward. Seen it before. But it will lock up on the street when cold.
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