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Thread: 87 Ram 50 4x4 "junkyard" rescue,

  1. #151

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    Quote Originally Posted by WarStryker13 View Post

    I kinda wish someone had a pic of the 2.6 at TDC for #1 with the cap off so I would at least know which post is supposed to be #1...
    I don't know what this means, but here's a picture of my 2.6 with the cap off (if I'm guessing correctly which cap you're referring to), in case it helps...

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  2. #152

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    ^Warstryker meant #1 in the distributor cap.
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  3. #153

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    ^Warstryker meant #1 in the distributor cap.
    Haha, ok. Wasn't sure what he was talking about. But hey, I learned something else today.

  4. #154

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    That's a clean engine though, looks much better than the sludgebox I've got. lol

  5. #155

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    So this happened...

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    Third time pulling the parking brake lever, I heard two pops and parts fell out. Both rear parking brake cables snapped at the lever, I tried pulling them out when I first got the truck but I couldn't get the nuts to budge and left it until I had new cables... guess I'm getting new cables sooner than I expected. I will be using a chock block until I fix it, I know what happens if you don't have a parking brake. lol

    I also realized how dumb I am, I thought the firing order was 1,2,3,4 because of the Haynes manual, but I apparently can't read. Or look it up on here, or anywhere else on the internet...

    I feel really effin stupid.

    I'm going to (hopefully) pull the truck out tomorrow and try getting it started with the correct firing order. I'm going to try the original ICM first, then I'm going to try the new $15 ICM. If both work I've got a spare, if either is bad I'll be ordering another new ICM, and if both are bad I'm going to order a new OEM one.

    On another note, I got the wiper motor back together. It's still only one speed, but it's much stronger in low than it was before. I'm gonna be making another junkyard run here in the next few weeks, try and find everything I'm needing...

    I moved the off road lights to the "stock" position, they kept getting in my way while I was trying to work on the damn truck... I also cleaned up the wiring a little, I want to mount a distribution block for all of the relays but right now I have it pretty close to organized. Ish.

    I also found one of the wires for the A/C was pinched under the ground bolt on the bottom of the battery tray, and I'm kinda tempted to just eliminate the coolant temp switch for the A/C. I fixed it for now, but I might change it later.

    Does anyone have pics of their ignition coil wiring? I'm just wanting to make sure I know which wires are supposed to be connected to where, and if I've got extras I want to know where they "should" be connected.

    Pictures are easy to understand. lol

  6. #156

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    Well you have been on a journey of self enlightenment! Before you go hating on yourself you haven't had to sacrifice your dignity and pay someone to fix your order of phuc' dup bad-lee. You'll get it sorted (nothing pays like perseverance). Hell, I didn't even know there was a sender switch to shut off the A/C condenser fan if the engine temp dropped below operating temps
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  7. #157

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    I've found a few pics that help, and I might have accidentally lost (thrown away) some pieces that I probably should have kept...

    I'm going to see if I can figure out a way to isolate the ignition circuit without completely rewiring the entire front half of the truck. I don't know what problems it might already have, but if I can start off with a known good setup, I might not have to chase down as many gremlins.

    I'm realizing now that I am the cause of the majority of the headache I am experiencing, especially since I decided to modify almost everything before even getting the truck running. lol

  8. #158

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    I've been playing around with modifying the stock air cleaner for the Weber carb, and right now my progress is ugly and kinda hacked together... Lol

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    I figured it would be easier to use the existing Weber bottom plate as a template, and it's spaced away from the carb like that because I'm using the mounting points on the valve cover, the four studs on the Weber itself, and I'm thinking of making a bracket to hold a center stud for the lid.

    Yes, that filter is extremely dirty and well worn, but it works as a placeholder.

    And yes, I know that it's not the most efficient airflow design, but it'll work for getting somewhat cooler air to the carb. Maybe. If I actually follow through with it.

  9. #159

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    If you plug the mounting hole in the top of the air cleaner box you might not even need the centre bolt. It's primary purpose is to clamp the whole air cleaner assembly down to the carb but if the base of it is secured rock solid, you won't need to factor it in. Hmm, the Weber sits higher than the stock carb with the adapter under it - I didn't know that...

    This will work better than the open element filter and maybe with some heat shielding in it (or even around the main intake duct as it's hanging over the exhaust manifold), it might aid intake temperatures further
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  10. #160

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    IT LIVES!!!!!!!!

    I took it on its first true maiden voyage, and it did much better than expected. The brakes are terrible, the throttle is extremely sensitive, and it's loud as hell...

    But it runs like hell and even chirped the tires in second gear. I'm happy with it.

  11. #161

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    Most excellent ...you really need to get the brakes thing sorted out before you end up beer canning all of your hard work.
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  12. #162

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    Well, they do work, and the truck does stop... But I have to lay into the pedal to get it to stop quickly, and the pedal is almost to the floor by that point, but the brakes will still stop the truck.

    Eventually I'll get the entire brake system replaced and it'll work great, but honestly just getting it back on the road and driving is huge for me.

    It has been almost 10 years since this truck drove on public roads, and it's now back to being (mostly) roadworthy.

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