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Thread: 87 Ram 50 4x4 "junkyard" rescue,

  1. #176

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    I forgot you had the 38/38. Sorry about that.
    Mr Paco, If i'm going to be sitting for and extended amount of time (traffic) I just nudge it into neutral. Not only is your transmission happier, but you will get more air and coolant flow with the water pump spinning faster. 1100 at idle is faster than I would run, and will make you more prone to dieseling. Idle speed was high when i first got the truck, and it slammed into gear and pulled hard when you first put it in drive. Much nicer to drive with a lower idle.

  2. #177

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    Ok so I'm kinda dumb...

    I spent the past week or so away from my house and the truck and I was going off of memory for the brake questions... Apparently while I was taking them apart in the middle of the night I didn't get that good of a look at how they work.

    I finally got another look and realized that the slider pins that I'm having issues with are in the caliper body, and the pin that bolts to the bracket is totally fine.

    I guess the new question is do I try and get the slider out of the caliper, or is it a lost cause?

  3. #178

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    I got the caliper slide pins out (with a pair of vise grips and a hammer) and ordered new ones, along with new rubber boots.

    I'm going to wait until I've got everything I need before starting the reassembly, and hopefully I can find a source for those spacers to get the hub axial endplay set properly...

    I got the throttle linkage set up so that I now have wide open throttle, and it should also be slightly less touchy.

    I'm also going to wait until after everything is back together before adjusting the idle, because I'm going to be doing the Seafoam at the same time and I'd rather not fill the garage with smoke. Lol

  4. #179

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    Quote Originally Posted by WarStryker13 View Post
    Ok so I'm kinda dumb...

    I spent the past week or so away from my house and the truck and I was going off of memory for the brake questions... Apparently while I was taking them apart in the middle of the night I didn't get that good of a look at how they work.

    I finally got another look and realized that the slider pins that I'm having issues with are in the caliper body, and the pin that bolts to the bracket is totally fine.

    I guess the new question is do I try and get the slider out of the caliper, or is it a lost cause?
    If you were 'kinda dumb' you wouldn't have figured this one out under your own reconnaissance, so you get another gold star for the fridge lol. I'd give it a clean, a blasting with WD40 and see how you go before sending it off for scrap. You may end up needing a replacement if the slider pins are all scuffed up from wear but you might get lucky and all it needs is some TLC to get it operational.
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  5. #180

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    I'm gonna need new pins... Lol

    The caliper itself seems to be fine, just the sliders were stuck. The rotors and pads seem to be totally fine as well, barely any wear on the rotors...

    Now it's just a matter of cleaning everything and waiting on parts.

  6. #181

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    ...err, yeah. I can see how that may slightly impact on braking performance. That slider is FUBAR
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  7. #182

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    Well if it hadn't been stuck in the first place, I wouldn't have had to fubar it out....

  8. #183




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    after all the years of neglect before you got the truck, its a wonder you were able to get it out at all...
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  9. #184

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    Chunks of the rubber boot are still stuck to the slider pin... lol

    Thankfully the passenger side was less stuck and didn't require vise grips to remove. The pistons do move inside the calipers, so they will work once I get everything back together.

    The only things left are to clean and re-pack the wheel bearings, put everything back together and get back to driving it.

  10. #185

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    I got the new pins, but the boots that I ordered weren't the boots shown in the picture... So after a trip over to the local parts store, I've got another set of boots on the way and a new 75 group battery with dual terminals.

    I did grab one of the cheap battery hold-downs, but I'm not a big fan of it. I thought it was made of some type of hard composite plastic, but it is in fact made of rubber and I think I might be switching it out for a sturdier battery hold-down. It holds the battery in place just fine, but I'm not really that comfortable with it as a long term solution.

    I am picking up the (hopefully correct) caliper slide pin boots tomorrow, the 2 1/2" hub lock nut socket, (the Ford/GM one and grinding off the 4 extra pins), and while I'm there I'll grab some universal power distribution blocks and more electrical wiring connectors and ends to (hopefully) get the wiring mess figured out and semi-sanitized. Probably some other stuff that I won't remember I need to buy until I see it on the shelf.

    I'm wanting to isolate the ignition wiring from the rest of the electrical wiring, and I'm wondering if there is another keyed +12v source I can use that is easily accessible and will potentially handle the possibility of up to 10 amps...

    I'm going to do one power distribution block for battery +12v and the other for keyed ignition +12v. The battery +12v will power the fuel pump relay, the off-road lights relay, the 12v triple socket box I've got mounted under the dash and the tiny 100w sub behind the seat. The keyed +12v distribution block will run the electric choke on the carb, the signal wires for the two relays and possibly some additional accessories and/or relay signals.

    The power distribution blocks I'm getting have a fuse for each output, and I will be running a 30a fuse maximum on the battery +12v block, and the keyed +12v will only have signal wires connected, nothing that will actually put any real amperage draw on the keyed +12v source.

    I've got a buddy that has a seal installation kit, big ass torque wrenches, and a couple other tools that I'm likely to borrow. This upcoming weekend I've got 3 days off and I'm going to do my damnedest to have the truck back on the road by Monday.

  11. #186

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    What I did on my truck, was get a marine grade tinned copper junction block. There are 4 lugs on it. One to battery, one to alternator, one to the factory harness, and one that feeds into a 12v 100amp (or maybe 200) continuous duty solenoid. That solenoid is triggered by my original coil wire. The solenoid feeds a marine grade fuse panel. The fuse panel feeds my electric fuel pump, fog lights, ignition system, carb choke, auxiliary gauges, and power feed for my trailer lights.
    It's a little bit hokey, but it keeps the load of all the new accessories off of the factory wiring. All of the wires between the junction block, battery, alternator, solenoid, and fuse block are 2 gauge. Almost no voltage drop. It's been going for about 60k miles/2 years with no trouble. I'll try and snap a picture today.
    Quote Originally Posted by WarStryker13 View Post
    I got the new pins, but the boots that I ordered weren't the boots shown in the picture... So after a trip over to the local parts store, I've got another set of boots on the way and a new 75 group battery with dual terminals.

    I did grab one of the cheap battery hold-downs, but I'm not a big fan of it. I thought it was made of some type of hard composite plastic, but it is in fact made of rubber and I think I might be switching it out for a sturdier battery hold-down. It holds the battery in place just fine, but I'm not really that comfortable with it as a long term solution.

    I am picking up the (hopefully correct) caliper slide pin boots tomorrow, the 2 1/2" hub lock nut socket, (the Ford/GM one and grinding off the 4 extra pins), and while I'm there I'll grab some universal power distribution blocks and more electrical wiring connectors and ends to (hopefully) get the wiring mess figured out and semi-sanitized. Probably some other stuff that I won't remember I need to buy until I see it on the shelf.

    I'm wanting to isolate the ignition wiring from the rest of the electrical wiring, and I'm wondering if there is another keyed +12v source I can use that is easily accessible and will potentially handle the possibility of up to 10 amps...

    I'm going to do one power distribution block for battery +12v and the other for keyed ignition +12v. The battery +12v will power the fuel pump relay, the off-road lights relay, the 12v triple socket box I've got mounted under the dash and the tiny 100w sub behind the seat. The keyed +12v distribution block will run the electric choke on the carb, the signal wires for the two relays and possibly some additional accessories and/or relay signals.

    The power distribution blocks I'm getting have a fuse for each output, and I will be running a 30a fuse maximum on the battery +12v block, and the keyed +12v will only have signal wires connected, nothing that will actually put any real amperage draw on the keyed +12v source.

    I've got a buddy that has a seal installation kit, big ass torque wrenches, and a couple other tools that I'm likely to borrow. This upcoming weekend I've got 3 days off and I'm going to do my damnedest to have the truck back on the road by Monday.

  12. #187

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    That random green wire is hooked up to the starter solenoid. My neutral safety ate shit this week, just been popping the hood and hitting something hot with it to start it. Once i fix the car I'll remedy the truck. Broken shifter cableClick image for larger version. 

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  13. #188

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    I like your setup, and I'm digging the old style electric fuel pump.

    I actually haven't touched the truck at all, things happened and long story short, I had to purchase a new vehicle for my wife on short notice.

    Whenever I do actually get back to working on the truck, the first thing to deal with is cleaning all of the old grease out of the wheel bearings and hubs. I'm trying to decide whether to buy regular degreaser, mineral spirits, or some other specific type of solvent to dissolve old, gummed up, dirty grease out of the bearings and hubs. As it is right now, I can't confidently say that all of the bearings are not worn out or binding because they're still packed full of dirty, nasty gummed up old grease.

    I really need to get the parking brake cables replaced as soon as possible, because I have been officially warned by my direct supervisor that I'm not allowed to drive the truck until they are fixed/replaced and the parking brake is fully functional.

    I found the part number of the shim kit, MB241229, and it's even harder to find than the parking brake cables. I'm going to try the local dealerships and the one-man Mitsu parts warehouse that I know, I really hope I don't have to order the shim kits online, but I did find it on mitsubishipartswarehouse... Last resort would be Ebay but I'm not a fan of ordering from Australia or UAE and waiting a month.

    Once I figure those two things out, the rest should go back together relatively quickly/easily. Hopefully.

  14. #189

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    Its the venerable carter P4070. being mounted above the tank, it requires constant flow to keep the pump primed. The fuel pressure gage is teed into the return line to the tank. I have a plug in the return line with a 1/16" hole through the center of the plug. This keeps the pump flowing about 5 gallons or so per hour
    For really grungy de-greasing like that. I buy a paint can at the hardware store and fill it with kerosene. I'll soak the parts and then brush them under the surface of the liquid with a nylon or brass brush. Under the surface of the liquid keeps the globs of kerosene soaked grease from flinging all over the place. Diesel also works but smells a bit more. Of course mineral spirits and WD40 work well too, but the cheap bastard in me likes the 3 bucks a gallon for kerosene/diesel at the pump.

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