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Thread: 87 Ram 50 4x4 "junkyard" rescue,

  1. #126

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    Speaking of work, put in some more today...

    Rolled the truck out into the driveway, hooked up the little electric pressure washer and went at it. As expected, it was woefully underpowered, but it did remove the dirt from the wheel wells and started peeling up some of the paint from the last paint job...

    I ended up scrubbing the hood and roof to get them clean, and I had to use some very fine steel wool to get the chrome wheels cleaned up... I'll have to take them off and legitimately polish them at some point, but right now they're the nicest thing on the truck.

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    And I did paint the front skid plate... It doesn't match at all, but it's that extra little touch. lol

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    I still have to bleed the brakes and set the timing, but my second pair of hands had to deal with some other stuff today.

    Looks like tomorrow is D-Day. lol

  2. #127

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    Looking good. This thing has come a long way in a short time! Nice work.

  3. #128

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    Keep it up. Like those wheels. Now you need to get the chrome marker lights front and back to match.

  4. #129

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    I do like the chrome marker lights, but I would want to get the chrome grille to match as well. That would make me want to make the rest of the truck look good to match, and there's too much rust and body filler in the body of this truck for it to be worth the work.

    I would collect all of the chrome trim for a rust free truck that I plan on finding later, but not for this one... and I'll most likely put these wheels on that truck if it doesn't already have them.

  5. #130

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    Other than the wheels (optional), and the bumper on the Custom trim, there was no chrome on the '87 Ram 50.
    I say keep the black trim

  6. #131

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    Actually, the Custom did have chrome marker lights and grille in '87...

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...am-50-Brochure

  7. #132

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    Do whatever makes you happy. Mine was all blue including markers and grill. Bought it with a busted grill, so I decided to start going chrome. Havent decided what to do with the bumper yet. Anyways you can pick up chrome markers on ebay for cheap and I think i paid $40 shipped for that grill new.


  8. #133

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    Quote Originally Posted by WarStryker13 View Post
    Actually, the Custom did have chrome marker lights and grille in '87...

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...am-50-Brochure
    I stand corrected!
    I have an extra chrome right side front side marker, but just the one. You can have it if you want.

  9. #134

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    I'm gonna keep it the way it is now, and worry about dressing up the next truck.

    In the meantime though, I've gotten the bulbs for the off road lights swapped out for 100w bulbs, wired them up to a relay with a switch... They're so much brighter than the stock headlight bulbs it's comical, but they're aimed at the same height as the high beams so they should do pretty well with lighting up what the headlights can't.

  10. #135

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    I have 2 100 watt kc spot lots on the front of my crown victoria. Amazing how many eyes you see looking at you driving down the back roads at night with them on!

  11. #136

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    So I decided to take it for a really short test drive, even though the timing is still off and the cab needs adjusted for idle...

    The test drive did not last long, since I had almost zero brakes and the parking/emergency brake did absolutely nothing.

    So after about 20ft the truck was parked back in the garage. When I bought this truck I decided that until I opened them up, the rear brakes would be both functional and neglected at the same time.

    They were not functional, so I decided to open up Schrodinger's drum brakes...

    After a liberal spray-down of brake clean, the story told is sickening.

    Driver's side

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    Driver's side front shoe

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    Driver's side wheel cylinder

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    Passenger side

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    Passenger side front shoe

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    Passenger side wheel cylinder

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    Note the adjuster lever, and it's position...

    I'm reasonably convinced that these are the original factory brakes, simply due to the amount of rust and apparent age of everything. I had to use the threaded holes in the drums to get them off the axles, but from the look of everything It doesn't appear to have bad axle seals, and the wheel cylinders only leak when you pull back the rubber. I would love to find some intact backing plates for cheap, but I might have to go pull them myself from a junkyard/parts truck.

    After this weekend (I work the next two days) I'm considering pulling the front calipers off and seeing if there are any major problems up front... I know the front brake hoses will need to be replaced, but they don't leak right now and I'd like to keep it that way. The rust on the rotors did start to wear off, so the pads are making contact with some measure of force.

    The front brakes will (eventually) stop the truck, but it's a 3-4 pumper and laying into the pedal to do so. That might be because all of the pressure is going to the drums since they are practically non-existent.

    Anyways, I got a free can of SeaFoam from AutoZone because I got a buddy that works there and always hooks me up with damn good discounts... I bought the biggest oil filter I could find on the shelf that would still seal onto the side of the block and a jug of 10w30 for after I do the SeaFoam treatment.

    My plan is to use half the can of SeaFoam to decarbonize the engine, just by squirting it straight into the throat of the carb with the engine running. After that, I'll add a little bit of brake fluid (should make the rubber seals swell up just a little) and the other half of the can to the oil and let it run for an undetermined amount of time. Then drain, refill and new oil filter. I'm adding the brake fluid just in case there's some sludge/varnish that's keeping the rubber seals from leaking by taking up the little bit of clearance, and if the SeaFoam cleans all of it out I'll have oil leaking like crazy from everywhere. I do plan on doing all of the gaskets, but not all at once.

    If you're still reading, thanks for sticking it out. I know I tend to ramble, but at least here I can get some advice or input from someone much wiser than myself.

  12. #137

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    Suggestions - engine oil flush. Some people say if it's never been done, it's already too late but I beg to differ. It'll bust up the sludge in the head and galleries, delaminate roasted oil on bearing surfaces and prolong your oil life by getting rid of some of the crap sitting in the sump. Seafoam? Don't know about it - some say it's Mother Theresa in a bottle while others say snake oil. I'd get a spray bottle with clean filtered water and a dash of methlyated spirits and pump it down the throat of the carb with the throttle open. Do it with the engine at operating temperature. The atomised water mix should end up being forced into whatever carbon is in there, turn to steam and make it swell. Once that happens the combustion cycle should do the rest and burn it off (possibly use a fuel system cleaner/additive as well). The 2 processes combined should restore some compression and free up the hydraulic lash adjusters/lifters in the rockers. If you have bad valve stem seals there is nothing you can do to remedy the build up of coke on the backs of the valves - it's off with it's head and into a machine shop for some reco work. The vast majority of oil consumption issues in Mitsubishi engines are bad valve stem seals.

    If you have parts that need rust eaten off them but want the least destructive method, get a bucket of hot water and add citric acid powder to it then submerge the crusty relics. Leave them for a day or so covered, then scrub and rinse them with water. It will dissolve all but the worst cases of rust. *this is for ferrous metals ONLY - don't try it with alloys or plated metals ever (alloys will vanish before your eyes and something that was once chromed will give you a nice dose of chromium poisoning - yay)
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  13. #138

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    The engine oil flush is kinda what I'll be doing, in a roundabout way... I haven't opened it up and smelled it yet, but I have a feeling Seafoam has diesel in it.

    I was planning on using some diluted windshield washer fluid, since it's basically methyl alcohol and water, but since I got the Seafoam for free I figured I might as well try it... If it doesn't do anything worthwhile I didn't water any money on it. Lol

    My rockers have the threaded inserts to manually set the valve lash, so I don't think it has the hydraulic lifters. And I haven't driven it enough to know whether it burns oil, but if I have to pull the head off I'm pulling the engine out and replacing every gasket and seal.

    As for the rust removal, I think I'm just going to try and find better backing plates, mine are really crusty and bent in a few places.

  14. #139

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    I bet if you bottled your diesel/oil mix and sold it for 50 bucks, people would gladly buy it up geezer

  15. #140

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    Oh! I totally forgot.

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    Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm plug wires, with "custom" zip-tie wire separators...

    They were the cheapest low resistance plug wires I could find, at 40 ohms per foot (Summit Racing, $37).

    Now I can confidently say that this is a "racetruk", because red plug wires. lol

  16. #141

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    Quote Originally Posted by Giovanni89 View Post
    I bet if you bottled your diesel/oil mix and sold it for 50 bucks, people would gladly buy it up geezer
    ...they already do - it's those little bottles of engine oil flush you get off the shelves. Figure out how much is in the bottle, look at the price and then work out how much diesel fuel you could buy for the equivalent amount. And the bottle isn't sufficient to do a decent flush. As a side note I ran into a young guy at the local fuel express who'd been doing the diesel flush as well, but hadn't gone as far as driving it for a day to get it circulating hot through the engine. He appreciated the tip
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  17. #142

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    Warstryker - now you can say 'zombie racetruk' coz back from the dead
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  18. #143

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    I'm stealing that. Lol

  19. #144

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    Been doing the motor flush trick for years now. It works.

  20. #145

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    After looking and pricing stuff out, I'm just gonna replace the shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware. There's no need to go all out when I'm planning on swapping out axles eventually anyways...

    The drums are just barely oversized, and the adjuster didn't break when I bent it back into shape, so I'm just gonna slap it back together and call it good. I'll buy new ones after they break.

  21. #146

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    chances are whatever axle you get is going to have crusty adjusters. Unless they are expensive or hard to get, I'd just swap them out while you have it apart. You can always put them on the new axle. If you mean the piece of sheet metal that pushes on the adjuster screw, that will probably bend back ok. But if you mean the adjustment screw itself, it doesn't take a whole lot of binding force to have the sheet metal pawl jump over the tooth and render it useless

  22. #147

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    It was the pawl that ratchets against the adjuster screw, it had somehow bent back past the teeth in the adjuster screw. I bent it back, cleaned everything and shoved it all back in there.

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    I took a wire brush to the backing plate, it's still solid enough in the places that matter. The drums are close enough that the adjusters will take up that little bit of slack.

    I don't really want to go back in there. There's not much room to work, and some of those corners are sharp.

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