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Thread: 87 Ram 50 4x4 "junkyard" rescue,

  1. #476

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    Out of curiosity I drained the oil and cut open the oil filter, there's a little bit of super-fine glitter visible in the oil filter element, but no flakes or big chunks that I can see. The glitter could potentially be left over from the Cera-Tec additive, but it's a small enough amount that I'm totally comfortable with the thought of it being due to the engine break-in process.

    I did notice that the old oil seems to be very thin, despite how much assembly lube I used and the fact that the break-in oil was SAE 30... I'm seriously considering running a slightly heavier oil, like 15w-40, because the old oil being that thinned out concerns me slightly.

    I'm having a hell of a time trying to decide whether I want to drop the trans now or wait until the new clutch shows up. On the one hand, I would know exactly what's going on inside that bellhousing, and if it's just a matter of a few bolts that came loose I would probably just put it all back together and drive it... But when the new clutch finally arrives I'll be pulling the trans YET AGAIN to install it.

  2. #477

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    I would play it safe and drop the transmission. If something really came apart it would damage the flywheel, end of the crank and the input side of the gearbox. PITA - yes, but better than having to fix something that wasn't busted. I think going 15w40 will be fine. It'll hold up better when it's warmed up. I did a change to semi-synthetic on my Hung Dog after I went overdue on an oil change (used 20w50 mineral oil initially) and I lost power so I thought. Now the oil has had a chance to circulate around the engine I think the rings weren't sealing from the mineral oil being gummed up and they're finally expanding. I probably won't go back to mineral oil again and hopefully it'll keep the innards of the block cleaner.
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  3. #478

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    Dropped the transmission today, found quite a few issues...

    First, all four bell housing bolts were loose, enough so that I didn't even need a wrench to get them out.

    Two of the rear driveshaft bolts were starting to come loose.

    The rubber in the transfer case mount is hard as a rock, and the stud snapped almost immediately.

    The good news is parts did not fall out when I dropped the trans, and there's no obvious damage to the pressure plate or flywheel.

    Now I have to just sit and wait until Summit decides to ship the new clutch... I'm probably going to pressure wash the transmission and transfer case, replace the little rectangular side cover gasket that's leaking, and do a bunch of other little things that ultimately won't make the truck more reliable or improve performance, but I'll feel better for having done something.

  4. #479

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    Clutch finally shipped, it should be here by Tuesday of next week.

  5. #480

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    Hope your new clutch isn't another one of your headaches
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  6. #481

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    Well the clutch finally showed up, and I realize now that the pilot and release bearings aren't included with this particular one.

    But I did find a shop that'll resurface the flywheel for only $55, so I've got that going for me, which is nice.

  7. #482

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    :Sigh: it's always something. 55 is not a bad price. I have found that flywheel resurfacing runs from "that's it?" to "I have an extra kidney".

  8. #483

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    Mine was done for $15 at a local NAPA store. They even sprayed it to protect it from rust.

  9. #484

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    Been way too busy to even touch the truck, but I've had the trans laying on the ground for a week or so...



    I haven't pulled the clutch or flywheel yet, but hopefully I'll get the time to after this weekend.

    The transfer case shift lever mounting plate is missing half of one of the mounting ears. I'm not particularly concerned about it.

    I (finally) got the new transfer case mount, but it didn't come with a new nut so now I'm trying to find an extra M10x1.25 nut in my pile of parts. I don't really feel like trying to drill the broken stud out of the old nut...

    I do have a jack stand under the engine to protect the mounts.

    Now I have to decide which method is a level of sketchy I'm comfortable with in order to get the trans out from under the truck. I can either lift one side of the truck to get the torsion bars and frame rail high enough to clear the top of the bell housing, or jack up the rear axle and drag the trans out the back.
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  10. #485

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    Quote Originally Posted by WarStryker13 View Post
    Been way too busy to even touch the truck, but I've had the trans laying on the ground for a week or so...

    I haven't pulled the clutch or flywheel yet, but hopefully I'll get the time to after this weekend.

    The transfer case shift lever mounting plate is missing half of one of the mounting ears. I'm not particularly concerned about it.

    I (finally) got the new transfer case mount, but it didn't come with a new nut so now I'm trying to find an extra M10x1.25 nut in my pile of parts. I don't really feel like trying to drill the broken stud out of the old nut...

    I do have a jack stand under the engine to protect the mounts.

    Now I have to decide which method is a level of sketchy I'm comfortable with in order to get the trans out from under the truck. I can either lift one side of the truck to get the torsion bars and frame rail high enough to clear the top of the bell housing, or jack up the rear axle and drag the trans out the back.
    Definitely jack up the back! Either with the front wheels on the ground, or the front jacked and the truck level.

  11. #486

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    Jack Stands are cheap at harbor freight. I had four of them under mine to pull the trans and I tested it out after I put it back together while it was still on the jack stands. if you can find them those ramps you drive up are nice too. Don't do sketchy, that cool feeling you get when you get away with it is not cool enough to make up for as bad as you will feel when it eventually fails. Even a pile of lumber, cinder blocks or spare wheels for safety is better than sketchy.

  12. #487

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    Ramps are the best. I made some from Lumber. Properly made, very safe. Never use concrete block. It doesn't like the concentrated load. Also, check your jackstands for fatigue occasionally. Watched my buddy's HF jackstand fail about 3 seconds before he was about to get under the jeep it was holding up. You never want to mess around with supporting a vehicle. It kills

    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    Jack Stands are cheap at harbor freight. I had four of them under mine to pull the trans and I tested it out after I put it back together while it was still on the jack stands. if you can find them those ramps you drive up are nice too. Don't do sketchy, that cool feeling you get when you get away with it is not cool enough to make up for as bad as you will feel when it eventually fails. Even a pile of lumber, cinder blocks or spare wheels for safety is better than sketchy.

  13. #488

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    I got a couple of the steel ramps, I think it was an estate sale. I'll check my jackstands for cracks. I usually get it set then try pretty hard to push it over before I crawl under just to make sure its safe. I'm sure if I wanted to I could get one of them to tip over. Never use cinder blocks, good to know.

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