Originally Posted by WarStryker13
You have grasped the vernacular well, my apprentice...
I'm on my way to pick up an engine stand, and either later today or tomorrow I'll be renting an engine crane.
By the end of this weekend I should have the engine torn down and have an idea of what all it will need.
Why I didn't say anything about it. Lol
wow,
what does 'vato' mean ??
..one of your bros/homeboys
Please do take a trip to The United States ,pm Me your itinerary .....one of your bros/homeboys
Engine is out.
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Dirty girl...
Found the problem.
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And that explains why the timing was constantly off...
Hmm, ate a guide. This is one of the things that has put me off the 4G52/54 engines are the collection of guides and chains. It makes working on them complicated. I think there's a non-balance shaft chain kit for the 4G54 (forklift engine?)
@ claych - glad you'd have me, but if I'm struggling to get my truck on the road there ain't much chance of getting myself on a plane
It did more than that... It tore the bolt out of the balance shaft, destroying the end of the balance shaft and ripping the gear completely off the end of the balance shaft
Ah well. That kit does exist, and after all of the cleaning and disassembly I'll be ordering parts.
More pics of the carnage:
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Bearings are completely destroyed. The crank doesn't look much better, unfortunately... It'll need the journals polished at a minimum.
Jeez, that is easily as bad as the catastrophic damage my original G63B engine went through. With the bottom end that badly chewed up, I'd be worried about the head. Got my fingers crossed your crank can be salvaged...
The crank will need polishing, but the scratches aren't very deep so it shouldn't need ground...
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The rear main seal might need some help, but it should be fine.
Yepppp, another balance shaft failure. Sounds like you have a good handle on it. I think, but someone else should confirm, that the cam chain tensioner is pressurized by the oil pump. Pretty sure the little spring in there is just to keep it tensioned while the engine is shut off. Low oil pressure could explain why your timing was jumping around. I can't tell by the picture, but it looks like the guide still had some meat on it.
WarStryker, hope you enjoy wrenching and getting your hands dirty NOT ME, I do THIS if I see any dirty work to be done ---->
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Well there's yer problem.
balance shaft seized I assume...
Whoa, that is one ugly hunk of metal...
overpowered engine damage
I've made an executive decision: This rebuild will NOT be accomplished "properly" or in the "right" way.
I am not taking this to a machine shop, I am not having a shop do a "professional" job, I am not spending that kind of money.
However, this engine WILL run again.
I am going to polish the crank journals by hand. I'm going to (carefully) clean up/polish the cam journals both in the head and on the cam. I am going to very lightly hone the cylinder bores, clean the block and paint it Chrysler Hemi Orange (just because).... And I will be putting in new main bearings, rod bearings, piston rings, a new timing set, balance shaft delete kit, and new oil pump.
I am going to measure every bearing clearance, but I will be fixing non-optimal clearances with liberal treatments of Motor Honey or equivalent oil additives and stabilizers. I will be using a proper engine break-in oil for the first start up and (however long) break-in period.
I might try a bottle or two of the "nano-particle" or "metal treatment" oil additives, give this engine the best chance to survive the horrific things I'm about to do to it...
I do really wish I could do this the "proper" way, "professionally" and whatnot... But I don't have the money or time right now, and if this works I'll do a legit turbo 2.6 build for this truck. Later.
Forgive me for the sins I am about to commit... lol
I can't speak for anyone other than myself...but I've certainly committed more egregious sins.Well, maybe I haven't set out with such things in mind, but there's nothing more permanent than a temporary solution! Get it!
There's a lot to weigh up on any project. I had only ever done top end work on engines before and the prospect of taking an engine in for machining and a full rebuild is still daunting. Last summer my Hung Dog wagon bit it hard - radiator split and it overheated badly. I managed to limp it home belching black smoke and knocking like an angry hoard of rioters and I felt I didn't have anything to lose by pulling the engine and giving it an autopsy. Turned out the bores and block weren't chewed up and the head didn't crack or warp so I threw the dice. I polished up the rod journals and deglazed the bores (using what is probably the most unorthordox method I could come up with/anyone has ever used...) , polished up the pistons and installed new standard rings, gave the head to a shop for a once over (hot tank, pressure test, 3 way valve cut) Not the way to do a full engine build but it is still going strong and hasn't griefed me at all. It wasn't cheap getting a new radiator, a full VRS kit and having the head prepped by a shop but it was put back together and got running on a very tight budget and time frame - in my driveway.
warstryker13,
After You -abuse (lol) the crankshaft journals & take measurements.
Pay an PROFESSIONAL PARTS SUPPLIER to provide You with a 'custom' bearing set.
Edit,
> 'custom' < each bearing is sized to a specific journal.
Last edited by claych; 11-22-2019 at 12:32 PM. Reason: add info.
I'm not looking to take that much off of the journals, I'm just trying to get them to a polished finish.
I will measure the clearance just to be sure, but if it's 6 thousandths or less I'm calling it good enough.
Plastigauge?? or Telescoping Gauge & Micrometer ??
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