Ok Roy, just for you lol. You'd have to shave off a LOT of metal to cause even the remotest chance of the head bolts being too long. The head bolts already have washers on them and I can't see there being a benefit of adding washers (it starts to look like a ghetto fix so, not good...) Going by those photos either it wasn't torqued down properly off the bat, it wasn't retorqued after the bedding in period, the top of the block is warped or the head recon was garbage. You can't lop a lot of metal off these heads due to the quench area on either side of the combustion chambers. The 4G64 heads have to be handled with kid gloves too. They are known to warp so badly that they bind the cams and cause them to snap (we've seen it on MR50 2 or 3 times). I'm gonna rant now about what guys think is ok and the realities behind it.

I don't approve of a shop milling heads to return them to a true deck without baking them first and pressing them straight. The reason behind it is it's not just the face of the head that is warped - it's the entire head. That means the deck face, cam bed - everything. It messes with combustion chamber volumes as well. And then there are situations where one particular head is sensitive to heat like the SOHC 4G64. I don't know what is the design feature of this head that risks the head warping enough to bind a cam but running it after being warped leaves it at risk of severe cam bearing surface damage. This can happen with any OHC head design - the head is alloy, the cam ain't and it's never gonna bend for anything. Listen out for machine shops that know their magic and pay the extra coin if you have to. I pay an average of $300 AUD for one shop to do my headwork and they have always been spot on. The only facet of head reconditioning I do is my own porting due to how much it costs to have a pro do it and what one guy 'thinks' vs what I want. You don't want to pay someone 10-30 hours on a head only to get it back looking - meh.