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Thread: 1986 Dodge Ram 50 360 swap

  1. #1

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    1986 Dodge Ram 50
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    1986 Dodge Ram 50 360 swap

    I was asked to post a page on my build. I will do my best, but I'm better at wrenching in the garage than I am at taking pictures, posting and giving descriptions. Actually I have never really ever posted in any forum, so please bear with me.

    My dad bought this truck brand new in '86 and it's was I learned to drive when I turned 16 in 1991. I have kept the truck all this time although it has been in storage for the past two and a half decades.

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    This is the garge where the swap is taking place, it's small and generally a mess as you can see, but it's heated and fits everything I need.

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    The first test fit I set the engine by aligning the 904 with the stock automatic transmission mount as I've seen most other people have.

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    Although this approach would make things easier as far as shift linkage, drive shaft and etc.... I felt better getting the engine to sit back as far as possible without serious firewall modifications. What I found was if I used the original D-50's automatic transmission mount (the soild block that bolts to the trans) 180 it moved the engine back two inches. Sorry no good pictures of this, but if someone is doing this you might get what I'm talking about.
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    I had to use button head bolts for this to work. They we're a bit difficult to find, but I did get them from http://mmsacc-stainless.com/.
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    Since these bolts are no longer accessable I drilled holes in the cross member to access the two regular bolts that go in from the bottom.
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  2. #2



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  3. #3

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    1986 Dodge Ram 50
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    Dodge V8
    Next was on to the motor mounts. I wanted to incorporate the stock mounts, as I want to go with a oem look, but could figure out a way to do it and keep it structurally sound. This is what I came up with. I'm not positive if this will be the final set, but I do like how it spreads out the the support of the engine to multiple points and hopefully aid in twisting the frame if the truck desides to hook up.
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    After the engine and transmission we're mocked up in place it was time to get a drive shaft built. I wanted something beefier than the stock shaft, but also wanted to keep it a two peice shaft. The truck will be kept lowered and if I end up getting serious about taking it to the strip, I have concerns about a one piece drive shaft would hit the fuel take cross member mount if the rear would squat. I know there will be weak links in my setup, but I'm not for sure if I'm just going to be crusing the streets or possibly more. You're welcome to point them out but I'm aware. For one I will be running the stock rear end for now. I did get a LSD off of Amazon (Precision Gear LOM83 Power Brute Limited Slip Differential) which fit perfectly. I believe it's a bit cheaper on eBay, but I wanted to make sure I would not have any issues if I had to return it.

    Stock Mitsubishi carrier with 1330 Series Toyota Midship for 1.181" center bearing.
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    https://www.driveshaftparts.com/inde...yota%20midship

    The flange comes from a Suzuki, I had to elongate the bolt holes but the center bore was dead on.
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    https://www.powertrainindustries.com...p_flange_yokes

  4. #4

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    1986 Dodge Ram 50
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    Dodge V8
    The stock transmission cross member was notched to support dual exhaust. I notched it out and filled it in with a 4" pipe one half in the cut out and the other half above to keep it structurally sound. This may interfere with the stock shift linkage, but I will tackle that when it comes up. It will need to be modified anyway since the trans sits back 2" for the stock location.
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  5. #5

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    1986 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    Dodge V8
    The starter is a bit of concern, this is the biggest issue I've had with sliding the motor/trans back torwads the firewall. The stock magnum 5.9 starter hit the steering box. I picked up Powemaster XS that is clockable and it does clear the box and idler. It's close and I believe I won't have any issues when the engine torques. Worst case scenario I do have wiggle room to move the engine to to right of center.
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    Powermaster XS Torque Starters 9513

    I did massage the firewall a bit where the transmission/engine bolts go. Everything cleaned just fine but I wanted some extra room to get fingers and and a wrench in there. I will smooth it out when body work starts.
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  6. #6

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    1986 Dodge Ram 50
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    I did purchase a LA timing cover and water pump, but the snout of the pump was to long for my liking. I lost the ability to run a mechanical fuel pump by going with the Magnum set up, but it gave me another inch or so clearance for the radiator. The radiator I found would fit behind the support.(Griffin Universal Fit Radiators 1-55201-TS) I do want to cruise the truck and have a fairly decent built engine, cooling is going to be important. I went ahead and cut the front support out to the size of the radiator and will shroud it with two 10" fans pulling air. From what I understand pulling air if more efficient than pushing it, hencs putting the radiator in front of the fans. I will also be running a fan on a oil cooler I plan on running under the bed of the truck. Like I said I don't want any issues with cooling. Trying to keep away from the hacked up look I drilled out all the spot welds and cut the least amount of sheet metal as I couldn't. Once the radiator has found it's permit home I will take the remove metal and patch in back in, trying to keep that OEM look. This I'd the current project so, more pics will be coming.
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  7. #7

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    I haven't figured out how to edit my post yet, please disregard my typos.

  8. #8

    Array
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    1986 Dodge Ram 50
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    Dodge V8
    A little about the engine, It's a 5.9 magnum out of a '98 truck. It has a balanced bottom end, flat top standard bore pistons. Fairly large street/strip cam from Hughes, aluminum heads running 10.7 to 1 compression. On paper it should produce 450hp/450torque. If anyone wants more specs I can provide more details.
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    Trans is built 904 with 3500 stall.

    As I mentioned before, I decided to keep the Magnum components on the front of the engine, mainly because of the shorter water pump. Originally I wanted to do a LA conversion, but this set up gives me that extra room and saved a few dollars as I bought a complete engine.

    I did modified the serpintine belt configuration as I deleted the A/C and power steering from the donor. I couldn't find any delete kits online so here is what I came up with.
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    First thing I did and for those who know the magnums was to cut the huge accessory bracket in half and get rid of the a/c mount. I used a sawzall and leveled it off with some heavy grit sandpaper. After running down to finer grits the final polishing of the aluminum was done with a headlight restoration kit.
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    I had to add an additional idler pulley to get sufficient surface area on the water pump pulley. The mount comes from 03 to 07 Ford f-350, but needs to be machined down 10mm. I picked mine up off eBay (Continental Elite 500008).
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    I also had to down size the stock idler and used an ACDelco 38006 to make room for the belt circling back. By mistake I ordered 6 rib idler pullies and just went ahead and used them. The OEM belt is 7 rib. The belt that worked for me was a Bando 6PK1765

    This was a spacer I had laying around to mount the return line to the water pump.
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  9. #9

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    You're doing a great job of the engine layout and fabrication. If you want to edit your posts, donate to the site. Everybody wins
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