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Thread: Lowering Question?

  1. #26

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    (Get on level ground and 2 sets of floor stands and a good hydrulic jack and either cut or remove bumpstops!)

    1. Jack hoghead up high enough to put ur 1 set of jack stands underneath the frame rails.

    2. Add you second pair of jack stands underneath the axle tubes and lower the axle just enough the whole axle sitting on jack stands but leave jack under hoghead snugged up to it.

    3. Remove shock bolt that attaches to the leaf spring bottom plate.

    4. Remove the U bolts and spring bottom plate.

    5. Remove bolt from emergency brake cable.

    6. Put in ur 3 inch blocks in and spring bottom plate and supplied U bolts and lock washers and nuts. (remember to cut your U bolt ends after you tighten them up so you dont scrap or hang up on something.)

    7. Replace bolt for emergency brake cable and shock nut back on the bottom spring plate.

    8. Jack up hoghead to remove the jack stands underneath the axle tubes and then jack up one side of the truck to remove the jack stand from the frame and then to the other side of the truck.

    9. Enjoy!

  2. #27

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    Wow, thats it! That sounds super easy! so 3 inch blocks in the rear, and a 3/4 cut on the front. (3/4 of a coil = 1"? is this true for all front coils, or is it brand specific? and does the amount of wear on the coil matter? as it gets older and used do the coils become more compressed, changing the amount of a coil needed to be cut to equal that 1" of height?)

    Like a shotgun blast of questions, my bad!

  3. #28




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    Problem with cutting stock springs is as they get shorter, they get stiffer real quick. Aftermarket springs are made to be cut without increasing the spring rate or stiffness. If you are cutting stock springs, try to get new ones that haven't sagged. You really aren't saving money cutting stock coils, as the damage caused by the stiffer coils more than offsets the cost of lowering coils, not to mention losing any chance of a smooth ride.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  4. #29


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    that is a very true statement --pennyman1

    i cut coils back in the day on a few cars and trucks...it does beat the hell out of other suspension components and bolts nuts etc. it will take a toll on a daily driven vehicle that is for sure.

    but i have had an 95 integra ls and it was on cut coils....its drove like a dream and never had any problems, it may vary i guess...

    hope all works out..
    as long as you are happy with your mod thats all that matters i guess..i think it looks great btw
    nice little step by step

  5. #30

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    yea basically i guess its just how my springs are they are smooth riding it stiffed the suspension a bit but its rides a whole lot better than bouncing with stock stuff and it matters on the saggness of the springs in ur type of vehicle btw but mine was only 3/4 of a cut to make a inch off the spring hieght but its how ever just measure with a measuring tape. ask any questions and thats what keeps us thats for sure. ty for the comments about my truck and u are welcome on the step by step I like easy instructions too. lol

  6. #31


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    The shocks take a beating with the lowered ride height. When shocks go out, then you'll notice the truck getting rougher and a lot more bouncy. It's one of thoughs "you get what you payed for" kinda deal. The so rings will sag, and ride height will be affected when they do, another alignment should be done at either that ride height, or a corrected ride height by suspension alteration.

  7. #32




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    To help reduce the wear and tear on a lowered front suspension, put a 1" spacer between the lower control arm and the shock. This help to lengthen the shock out and prevent it from bottoming out. It will actually improve the ride by restoring the travel close to where the shock was designed to work. As an alternative, Tokico shocks have a built in bump stop to prevent shock failure by bottoming out.
    Pennyman1
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  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    To help reduce the wear and tear on a lowered front suspension, put a 1" spacer between the lower control arm and the shock. This help to lengthen the shock out and prevent it from bottoming out.
    This is what I've done on the yota. When I had doetsch tech nitro drop shocks it wasnt a problem. When I got toxics for the front their compressed length is a bit longer than the d-techs so I had to put a spacer in the bottom. works great!

  9. #34

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    this is a good info thread. I have a couple questions.

    1. I don't quite understand how you lowered the rear without taking springs out, maybe i'm stupid, not sure but can you clarify this process?

    2. by lowering your front end, do you have to have your camber and caster adjusted, if so, did you do it yourself?

    3. I see it's been a couple months now, so do you see any unusual wear on your tires?

    4. pennyman1 has some good info on keeping the ride smooth, my truck is a daily driver and want to keep it smooth so i'll probably buy new springs (i still have the stock ones on from 1987). How does yours ride now?

    Just looked at your pics, nice stance on your ride. I like the long bed too.. Mines a shorty..

    Thanks.

  10. #35

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    no prob man the leafs sit underneath the rearend so all you have to do is unbolt the the plate at the bottom of the leafs and remove the bumpstop and old u bolts but make sure you have your rearend on a good steady jack to move it up and down. and just reverse the process with your new lowering block kit I used 3" block kit.

    naw i didnt have to adjust anything and my tires are not worned down at all just normal wear and tear. lol.

    it rides good its a bit stiff but nothing i aint use to just buy some new shocks is a good idea to do lol.

    ty ty I like it too I have another truck too its a shorty but its a ext cab I like it. I post pics soon and yea I looked at yours too very nice its got potential.

  11. #36

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    got it.. thanks.. just went out to compare your notes to the truck and now i realize how easy that install is.

    laterz

  12. #37

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    I am happy to hear that and keep us posted man

  13. #38



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    After lowering the front you will want to get an alignment. Everything will move when you pull your spindles from The balljoints and all that to cut or replace the coils

  14. #39

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    Dropped,

    Thanks, i was thinking of gettin it done after the install anyway because it pulls to the left now, so thought I'd wait. I already purchased the drop kit today so it should be here in about a week.. can't wait!!!

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