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Thread: Wheel Lock

  1. #1

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    Wheel Lock

    What does it mean when this light goes off? It's usually when I'm going fast or on a steep hill.

  2. #2

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    It could be several things, but first check the wiring harness. Start with fuse #7. Make sure it fits tightly and isn’t corroded. Then inspect the harness starting with the two wires to the pulse generator, which is the flat, circular protrusion from the rear of the transfer case. It’s opposite the front drive shaft. Locate the connector for the pulse generator which is above the round mount on the driver’s side of the transfer case. Separate this connector and clean the contacts. Cleaning these contacts fixed the same problem on my truck. There’s also a connector in the engine bay that should be checked. It’s to the right of the wiper motor.

    if the above doesn’t correct the issue, check the contacts and connector to the 4wd hub indicator control unit. The unit is near the floor behind the plastic guard to the left of the driver’s left foot. It could also be the bulb or harness connection to the gauge cluster. If you pull out the cluster, don’t bend or crimp the speedo cable. Doing so can damage it.

    Good luck.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    It could be several things, but first check the wiring harness. Start with fuse #7. Make sure it fits tightly and isn’t corroded. Then inspect the harness starting with the two wires to the pulse generator, which is the flat, circular protrusion from the rear of the transfer case. It’s opposite the front drive shaft. Locate the connector for the pulse generator which is above the round mount on the driver’s side of the transfer case. Separate this connector and clean the contacts. Cleaning these contacts fixed the same problem on my truck. There’s also a connector in the engine bay that should be checked. It’s to the right of the wiper motor.

    if the above doesn’t correct the issue, check the contacts and connector to the 4wd hub indicator control unit. The unit is near the floor behind the plastic guard to the left of the driver’s left foot. It could also be the bulb or harness connection to the gauge cluster. If you pull out the cluster, don’t bend or crimp the speedo cable. Doing so can damage it.

    Good luck.
    Correction to my previous post, above:

    The harness description is for my 88. I just checked and the 92 differs from the 88. The 4wd hub indicator control unit is on the passenger side behind the plastic cover to the right of the passenger’s feet. Also, the connector near the wiper motor on the 88 is in the cabin on 90+ models. In the service manual the connector (#D-24) appears to be below the dash above the tunnel. I don’t have a vehicle to check. Perhaps an owner of a 90+ 4x4 can confirm this.

  4. #4

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    This is beyond my limited knowledge in cars.

    Fwiw, I put it on 4wd yesterday and same light turned on. Put it on 2wd again and stayed on. Turned car off and then on and light was no longer turned on.

    I guess I just want to know what it means when this light is on and if it's a bad thing.

  5. #5

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    Just to check, when you put it in or take it out of 4wd, do you back up a few feet as recommended? If not, that could explain why the wheel lock light stayed on. After you shift to 2wd it will stay on until you back up and move forward. If it stays lit, the hub control unit or pulse generator may have problems. I’ve never had them fail, so I can’t speak from experience.
    One other thing to check is the auto hubs. Unscrew the chrome covers and inspect the condition of the hub internals. If dry or gummed up, they may not be unlocking causing the front drive shaft to rotate. That rotation will send a signal to the hub control unit and turn on the light or keep it on.

  6. #6

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    After backing it and moving forward the light turned off.

    It has gone off, though, when Im on a steep hill like previously mentioned.

  7. #7

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    TYVM FSM88 for your time. You are very helpful.

  8. #8

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    You’re welcome. I’m stumped as to why steep hills cause the light to come on. Did your mechanic check the engine, trans and front differential mounts? A broken or soft mount might allow enough movement to somehow trigger the light. Next time you take it in, have the mechanic also look at the wiring harness to the trans/transfer case.
    If the light comes on infrequently, I wouldn’t worry much now. When you eventually have the brakes, wheel bearings and seals replaced, have the auto-hubs inspected, cleaned and lubricated, too. If they’ve never been touched, they’ll need it after 128k and 26 years.

  9. #9

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    @FMS88 I think you hit the nail in the head. The engine is fine but he said the front differential mounts were waggling a bit.

  10. #10

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    Somewhat related question:

    Would someone mind detailing the proper procedure for engaging the auto lock hubs work?
    I understand that you are supposed to backup a few feet when engaging/disengaging, but I'm not clear as to when you do this. For instance, when putting into 4H, do you backup right before switching to 4H, or right after?
    And when disengaging, same thing, before or after switching back to 2H?
    Thanks

  11. #11

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    The procedure is printed on the back of the driver's sun visor. In short, perform the backup step after shifting into or out of 4wd. Backing up engages/disengages the auto-hubs which then turns on/off the Wheel-Lock dash light.

  12. #12

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    Following up on this, since we're talking about lock hubs, I could use some help since it looks like I need a new one. I thought I was missing the cap to one of the auto lock hubs, but it turns out I'm missing the whole thing (according the guy whos doing some work on it).

    The 4x4 is working though, all 4 wheels spin when in 4H and on a lift, but since I'm missing the auto lock hub, does that mean that the wheel is stuck on the lock position, and the front axle is turning all the time, even when in 2H?

    Since I'm missing one anyway, it seems it's time for a new set. Questions are:
    1) should I look for an auto set, or a manual set?
    2) where should I be looking & can anyone recommend a specific make/model?
    3) how easy or hard are these to replace for someone with limited knowledge and limited access to tools?
    4) if it's been stuck in the lock position, have I done any damage to the front axle? extra wear and tear, or just extra gas usage?

    Thanks

  13. #13

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    The lock hub transfers power from the axle/drive shaft to the wheel hub. So without the lock hub, I wouldn't expect the wheel to rotate when in 4wd on the lift. Either someone's improvised a repair to keep it effectively locked in 2H and 4H, or there's enough dirt and gunk in there to achieve a connection that's rotating the wheel. If it is somehow locked, it might cause the other auto lock hub to lock and unlock even when not in 4wd, but it's unlikely that will damage that hub or the rest of the front drive train - just add a little wear and tear and increase gas consumption as you suggest.

    My biggest concern is for the needle bearing inside the steering knuckle. It supports the axle shaft where it enters the knuckle. Without the lock hub, water and dirt can easily penetrate and destroy the needle bearing and the axle's bearing surface. The lock hub also helps protects the wheel bearings so check those out, too.

    Choosing between manual and auto hubs depends on your preference (staying in the cab or getting out to switch the hubs). The manual hubs have fewer parts so their easier to maintain, but maintenance is not a frequent concern. Installation of both is the same requiring a 10mm allen socket and snap ring pliers. A dial gauge to check/adjust the axle shaft end play is recommended especially if the lock hub is new.

    As to which hubs fit, any manual or auto hub for a first or second generation pickup will work. I think the same applies to hubs from first and second gen monteros and raiders.
    Last edited by FMS88; 01-21-2019 at 03:05 PM.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    The lock hub transfers power from the axle/drive shaft to the wheel hub. So without the lock hub, I wouldn't expect the wheel to rotate when in 4wd on the lift. Either someone's improvised a repair to keep it effectively locked in 2H and 4H, or there's enough dirt and gunk in there to achieve a connection that's rotating the wheel. If it is somehow locked, it might cause the other auto lock hub to lock and unlock even when not in 4wd, but it's unlikely that will damage that hub or the rest of the front drive train - just add a little wear and tear and increase gas consumption as you suggest.

    My biggest concern is for the needle bearing inside the steering knuckle. It supports the axle shaft where it enters the knuckle. Without the lock hub, water and dirt can easily penetrate and destroy the needle bearing and the axle's bearing surface. The lock hub also helps protects the wheel bearings so check those out, too.

    Choosing between manual and auto hubs depends on your preference (staying in the cab or getting out to switch the hubs). The manual hubs have fewer parts so their easier to maintain, but maintenance is not a frequent concern. Installation of both is the same requiring a 10mm allen socket and snap ring pliers. A dial gauge to check/adjust the axle shaft end play is recommended especially if the lock hub is new.

    As to which hubs fit, any manual or auto hub for a first or second generation pickup will work. I think the same applies to hubs from first and second gen monteros and raiders.
    Thank you for that detailed explanation FMS88. I think I'll need to take a second look at the hub situation then, I see what you mean about the unlikelihood of the font wheel turning if the lock hub was missing. I guess it is possible that all is missing is the cap (is the round piece of metal that says AUTO FREE HUB just a cap?). Any idea of where I can find a picture of what the inside of the auto lock hub looks like? It would be helpful in determining if parts of it are missing. If all it's missing is the cap and it just needs a good cleaning (and a new cap), how do I clean it? I've tried to look for videos, but most things that come up are for other types of truck, which have other types of hubs, I'm assuming.

    If the hub is there, how can I tell if the hub is disengaging after returning to 2H (and backing up a few meters)? Are there any tell tell signs, specially if one wheel is disengaging but the other one isnt?

    As to what type of lock hub to replace it with, I haven't been able to find any replacement auto lock hubs, ut I did figure out (from reading up some threads here and elsewhere) that for the manual hub the Aisin FHM-002 would work, but I'm wondering if any other 28-spline hubs would work as well.

    Thank you

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    The lock hub transfers power from the axle/drive shaft to the wheel hub. So without the lock hub, I wouldn't expect the wheel to rotate when in 4wd on the lift. Either someone's improvised a repair to keep it effectively locked in 2H and 4H, or there's enough dirt and gunk in there to achieve a connection that's rotating the wheel. If it is somehow locked, it might cause the other auto lock hub to lock and unlock even when not in 4wd, but it's unlikely that will damage that hub or the rest of the front drive train - just add a little wear and tear and increase gas consumption as you suggest.

    My biggest concern is for the needle bearing inside the steering knuckle. It supports the axle shaft where it enters the knuckle. Without the lock hub, water and dirt can easily penetrate and destroy the needle bearing and the axle's bearing surface. The lock hub also helps protects the wheel bearings so check those out, too.

    Choosing between manual and auto hubs depends on your preference (staying in the cab or getting out to switch the hubs). The manual hubs have fewer parts so their easier to maintain, but maintenance is not a frequent concern. Installation of both is the same requiring a 10mm allen socket and snap ring pliers. A dial gauge to check/adjust the axle shaft end play is recommended especially if the lock hub is new.

    As to which hubs fit, any manual or auto hub for a first or second generation pickup will work. I think the same applies to hubs from first and second gen monteros and raiders.
    Thank you for that detailed explanation FMS88. I think I'll need to take a second look at the hub situation then, I see what you mean about the unlikelihood of the font wheel turning if the lock hub was missing. I guess it is possible that all is missing is the cap (is the round piece of metal that says AUTO FREE HUB just a cap?). Any idea of where I can find a picture of what the inside of the auto lock hub looks like? It would be helpful in determining if parts of it are missing. If all it's missing is the cap and it just needs a good cleaning (and a new cap), how do I clean it? I've tried to look for videos, but most things that come up are for other types of truck, which have other types of hubs, I'm assuming.

    If the hub is there, how can I tell if the hub is disengaging after returning to 2H (and backing up a few meters)? Are there any tell tell signs, specially if one wheel is disengaging but the other one isnt?

    As to what type of lock hub to replace it with, I haven't been able to find any replacement auto lock hubs, ut I did figure out (from reading up some threads here and elsewhere) that for the manual hub the Aisin FHM-002 would work, but I'm wondering if any other 28-spline hubs would work as well.

    Thank you

  16. #16

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    Hopefully you're only missing the cap. If so, you should see six allen wrench bolts that affix the lock hub to the wheel hub (circled in red in the illustration below). Also, the drive shaft end is recessed about 3/4" within the lock hub housing.
    Auto Hubs.jpg
    If there's no lock hub, the drive shaft will protrude outside the wheel hub and you'll see a ring with 12 holes, four with phillips head screws, surrounding the drive shaft.
    Auto Hubs_1.jpg
    If the hub is not unlocking, the Wheel-Lock light in the gauge cluster will not turn off. You can also put it in 2wd, use the unlock the hubs procedure, and then raise the front wheel in question. When you rotate the wheel, it's drive shaft will not turn.

    If you're just missing the cover and it doesn't look filthy inside, flush it with WD40, push new grease in as best you can and screw on a replacement cover. This will probably be fine, especially if you found it engaged/disengaged per above. If there's a lot of grit or contamination, removal, disassembly and cleaning is recommended. If you're not comfortable doing that, best to take it to a reputable shop.

    The Aisin hub is the only manual one I know of that's still available. But look at the 4x4wire.com and pirate4x4.com forums. Some members have raiders and monteros, and may discuss hubs other than the stock and Aisin brands.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    If the hub is not unlocking, the Wheel-Lock light in the gauge cluster will not turn off. .

    The green light on the gauge cluster does go off when I put it back on 2H. So does that mean that the hub is functioning correctly?
    What exactly controls the light on the cluster? Is it the transfer case? the front axle? Is it possible that it is getting "wrong information"? In other words, how reliable is the light on/off status as an indication of whether or not the 4x4 is working and engaged (or disengaged)?

    And thank you for that diagram, very helpful. I will take a look at the wheel today when I get the truck back, and see how it compares.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrPaco View Post
    The green light on the gauge cluster does go off when I put it back on 2H. So does that mean that the hub is functioning correctly?
    What exactly controls the light on the cluster? Is it the transfer case? the front axle? Is it possible that it is getting "wrong information"? In other words, how reliable is the light on/off status as an indication of whether or not the 4x4 is working and engaged (or disengaged)?
    In short a control unit illuminates the green "Wheel-Lock" light when the transfer case is in 4H or 4L, a sensor on the transfer case detects rotation of the front drive line, and forward speed exceeds 3mph. Since there are no sensors on the locking hubs, the control unit "assumes" that if these three conditions are met, the hubs are locked. But this assumption can be wrong when a hub is faulty, so you're concern for wrong information is legitimate.

    Your earlier test with the truck on a lift and noting the front tires rotation status before and after engaging and disengaging 4wd is the best and easiest test. If everything is as expected, the light and the locking/unlocking hubs are fine. I don't use 4wd much, but in 29 years and 160k miles, I've had no problems with the hubs. (The light has flickered but that was an electrical connection issue.) While doing other front end repairs at 130k, I disassembled, cleaned and lubed them. Internally they looked fine with lubricant that wasn't caked or dried.

    If what you can see with the covers removed looks clean and properly lubricated, I don't think you have much to worry about. But if you're still concerned and plan to use 4wd a lot, have them disassembled, cleaned and lubed or replaced with manual hubs, if you want to go manual.

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    In short a control unit illuminates the green "Wheel-Lock" light when the transfer case is in 4H or 4L, a sensor on the transfer case detects rotation of the front drive line, and forward speed exceeds 3mph. Since there are no sensors on the locking hubs, the control unit "assumes" that if these three conditions are met, the hubs are locked. But this assumption can be wrong when a hub is faulty, so you're concern for wrong information is legitimate.

    Your earlier test with the truck on a lift and noting the front tires rotation status before and after engaging and disengaging 4wd is the best and easiest test. If everything is as expected, the light and the locking/unlocking hubs are fine. I don't use 4wd much, but in 29 years and 160k miles, I've had no problems with the hubs. (The light has flickered but that was an electrical connection issue.) While doing other front end repairs at 130k, I disassembled, cleaned and lubed them. Internally they looked fine with lubricant that wasn't caked or dried.

    If what you can see with the covers removed looks clean and properly lubricated, I don't think you have much to worry about. But if you're still concerned and plan to use 4wd a lot, have them disassembled, cleaned and lubed or replaced with manual hubs, if you want to go manual.
    I got the truck back last night, and it's running well. The guy who worked on it said the locking hub (which is missing the cap) didn't look too bad and he improvised a cap out of cardboard and foil tape, until I can find a replacement. I haven't taken a closer look behind the cap he made, but will as soon as some of this snow/ice we have around here melts.
    I was able to test the 4x4 on an icy parking lot, this is what I observed: when I stepped on the gas in 2H the back wheels were spinning and the truck wasn't really moving forward much, then I switched to 4H (green light comes on) and when I stepped on the gas the truck moved forward like a champ and seemed to be gripping the icy pavement with no problems. When switching back to 2H it was back to spinning wheels. So I guess at least this tells me that when in 2H only two wheels are engaged, and when in 4H all four are, so that's good.

    The one thing I'm not able to tell is whether or not the hub is disengaging after returning to 2H (and backing up a short distance), so I guess I don't know if the front axle is still rotating.

    FMS88, is this assertion correct? Based on your explanation above one of the three factors that turns the green light on is "rotation of the front drive line", is this different from axle rotation? As soon as I returned to 2H the green light goes off, so I'm guessing the sensor is no longer detecting rotation of the front drive line, but it's not telling me anything about the front axle rotation, right? (if these two are in fact two different things, which I don't know, and I guess is what I'm trying to ask).

    Thank you for time helping a noobie figure this pretty basic (I'm sure) function.

  20. #20

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    From your description, it looks like the hubs are engaging and disengaging properly. Other than finding a cap, I don’t think you have anything to worry about. Post a thread in the parts Wanted section to see if anyone has an extra or oneleft over from a switch to manual hubs.

    Regarding your question about axle rotation, thanks to the front differential, any rotation of the driveline will result in axle rotation. Basically, you can’t have one turn without the other turning. So from the light’s perspective, driveline and axle rotation are one and the same.

    I hope this was of help. Enjoy the snow (in 4wd).

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    From your description, it looks like the hubs are engaging and disengaging properly. Other than finding a cap, I don’t think you have anything to worry about. Post a thread in the parts Wanted section to see if anyone has an extra or oneleft over from a switch to manual hubs.

    Regarding your question about axle rotation, thanks to the front differential, any rotation of the driveline will result in axle rotation. Basically, you can’t have one turn without the other turning. So from the light’s perspective, driveline and axle rotation are one and the same.

    I hope this was of help. Enjoy the snow (in 4wd).
    Yes, this has been immensely helpful!
    I posted a thread looking for a cap, hopefully someone has one laying around... otherwise I'll have to get lucky at a junkyard. Thanks for the tip

    One last follow up question on this, and I promise to move on...
    On your comment about the axle and the driveline rotating together, I understand what you mean. But I read somewhere, cant remember if it was in this forum or not, that if the hub wasn't properly disengaging then the front axle could still rotate with the wheel, even when the 4x4 is not engaged, thus making the truck work harder and use more gas. Is that something that can happen in other vehicles, but not on this one because the axle and driveline always rotate together on these?
    I'm overthinking it, I know...
    Anyway, I trust your opinion, you sound like you know what you're talking about, if you think it's operating as it should (based on what I've been able to describe), then I feel good about it.

    Thanks again, and yes, I'm enjoying the snow!

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrPaco View Post
    One last follow up question on this, and I promise to move on...
    On your comment about the axle and the driveline rotating together, I understand what you mean. But I read somewhere, cant remember if it was in this forum or not, that if the hub wasn't properly disengaging then the front axle could still rotate with the wheel, even when the 4x4 is not engaged, thus making the truck work harder and use more gas. Is that something that can happen in other vehicles, but not on this one because the axle and driveline always rotate together on these?
    I understand what you're saying and you're right about, how do you really know. A hub that failed to disengage or, if manual, left in the locked position would cause the wheel to rotate the axle, differential and drive line. Since I've never had an auto-hub fail, I can't speak from experience, but I suspect the auto-hub control unit would not turn off the Wheel-Lock light if a stuck hub caused axle rotation after shifting to 2wd. If my suspicion is unfounded, then the only way to know for sure that a hub failed to disengage would be to shift to 2wd, execute the procedure to disengage the auto-hubs, raise the front wheels, rotate each wheel by hand and observe if the axle turns or not. If the axle doesn't turn, the hub is definitely disengaged.
    I think you're fine, but it never hurts to question and explore the possibilities when your goal is to understand. Enjoy!

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    it never hurts to question and explore the possibilities when your goal is to understand. Enjoy!
    I think you hit the nail on the head. While I can see that it's working fine, part of me just wants to understand why that is. I don't try to understand how technology works, beyond my basic knowledge, I just accept it, but it's fascinating to figure and understand out how mechanical things work.
    Thanks for all the advice (I'll try the lifting the front and turning the wheels by hand test, as soon as I get some jacks).

  24. #24

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    I finally had the chance to properly test the 4x4.
    Went to a friend's farm and rode through some really muddy and snowy fields, really messy stuff. The 4x4 handled like a champ, no problems at all getting though all the wet mud. At one point there was a hill so muddy that going down the truck was sliding down the hill, on the way back I had no problem climbing back up that same hill.

    All systems seem to be working as designed, so that's great, and I was really impressed with the handling. However, if you know me by now, you know I have a question...
    I had no issues moving the 4x4 drive shifter from 2H, to 4H and then to 4L, but after driving for awhile in 4L and trying to switch back to 4H (and then 2H), the shifter was stuck and would not move. I move the truck forward a few feet, tried again and it still wouldn't move, drove forward and backwards a few feet, tried again and now the shifter easily moved out of 4L.
    This happened a few times (the shifter being stuck in 4L), eventually it was freed by moving forward or backwards. Is this normal?

  25. #25

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    G63B
    You have to roll it back to disengage the H/L ranges. That's how they are actually designed to work. It's in the owners manual and on a label in the truck somewhere too AFAIK. The 4x4 Mitsubishi is mad ain't it?
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