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Thread: my 2.6 just died while idling and now won't even fire???

  1. #1

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    1986 Dodge Power Ram 50
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    my 2.6 just died while idling and now won't even fire???

    I've only had my 1986 Power Ram 50 (with 2.6L) for several months but already swapped to a Weber 38(with Carbole E fuel pump) and Hooker headers. While I was at it I also put in new plugs, distributor cap and wires, coil.

    I've probably got 200 miles on it since the carb swap but the other day, before it was fully warmed up (These 2.6 motors ARE cold blooded, aren't they?) It just died from an idle and won't restart or even fire!?!

    I first thought ignition since it won't fire or even try to start. I pulled one plug wire and put in an old spark plug: it seems to spark just fine. Not blue but a big spark. So it's probably not ignition, but maybe somehow went way out of proper ignition timing?

    I thought maybe it suddenly lost all fuel flow but I smell fuel and pulled the inline filter off at the Weber carb and theres plenty of fuel there. Does the Weber have some sort of a fuel solenoid that might not be opening?? Maybe I'll go give her a spray of starting fluid and see if she fires off that.

    Any 2.6 gurus out there have any thoughts for me please?????????
    Bill in Colorado

  2. #2

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    Hmmm. The plot thickens! I took the airfilter off so I could spray some starting fluid down the throat...the choke butterfly plates were jammed closed??? I had to take the choke assembly off and carb top plate to gently pop it lose and free again! HUH? So I theorize it backfired and jammed the choke butterfly closed?

    I put it all back together again and now it does fire and kind of start but running extremely rough and won't stay running. Is the motor so filled with raw gas from cranking with choke fully closed that it's taking a bit to burn back off? Will these motors go out of time just from backfiring one time?? I've never suspected a timing issue up to now so I've never even checked the timing yet, not positive how easy that is and don't know if I still have a timing light somewheres. I used to love checking static timing on my old air cooled VWS...dead simple.

    Anyways, all suggestions or hints would be greatly appreciated!

  3. #3



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    Does it have a plastic timing cover or is it metal?
    Have you tried a new coil?
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  4. #4

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    Thanks Camoit,

    Looks like an aluminum timing cover and I just replaced the coil when I did the carb swap, couple months ago. I guess I could reinstall the old coil, I think it was fine..?

  5. #5

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    if you pop off the valve cover and rotate the engine to tdc, the distributor drive gear dowel pin should be at 12 o clock (or 6). Quick check to see if it's maybe jumped a tooth. Remember to only rotate clockwise

  6. #6

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    Thanks Giovanni!

  7. #7

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    Well if anyone is watching this thread, I have now got it running again and it appears only one simple silly thing happened. I finally only found one thing "wrong." The electric choke butterfly was jammed shut, closed, full choke. I couldn't tell what the choke was doing or if it wasn't functioning until I took the air filter off, so perhaps by cranking the engine over as much as I did with a fully choked choke I super flooded the engine with gas.

    I'm guessing the choke got jammed shut from an engine back-fire, which I hadn't really noticed but sometimes the motor diesels a little when I shut it down, but it's only for a second every once in a while.

    This truck is not my daily driver, I'm still getting it dialed in and running the way I like. I'll keep messing with it and hopefully learn and get everything running dependably...

    I wonder if I'm the only sucker out here that had the choke butterfly jam shut on a Weber 38?

  8. #8




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    The choke spring tension will not allow the choke to open if it is not adjusted properly. Out of the box it needs setup - loosen the 3 screws and turn the choke cover until the choke plate fully closes. Tighten the 3 screws. Take the throttle lever and rotate fully once, or press the pedal to the floor once, then release. The choke plate should open slightly. Start the truck - it should idle at 2000+ rpm - 1 tap should bring it down to 1600 - 1800 rpm. After that it should be stepping down on its own. Adjust the choke screws behind the choke spring to get these results if it does not step as described.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  9. #9

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    Thanks Pennyman. My Weber choke seemed to be adjusted pretty well right out of the box but something happened (I'm guessing a mild backfire) that really jammed the butterfly closed. I couldn't force it open with fingers and I didn't want to hurt it so I took it all apart so that I could tap the butterfly open without hurting the linkage.

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