I was going to knife edge in front of the guides.
I have 4 hours in these so far.
I still have to clean and polish the valves.
I was going to knife edge in front of the guides.
I have 4 hours in these so far.
I still have to clean and polish the valves.
sounds good to me. on my bike i just got a 6mm rod and cut a slit in the end. The slit is to hold some folded up sandpaper. fits in a diegrinder or drill. made short work of the alloy head castings
I don't think you're going to make any gains by knifing the casting shroud around the valve guides. If you were upsizing valve diameters and/or big porting the head, I'd do it. Yes - kill off the EGR gallery by threading a plug into it from the intake side where it enters the manifold and seal it off. This piece of crap EGR system either doesn't work from being clogged up or nerfs the engine. Don't bother with trying to seal it from inside the exhaust port as it won't have any benefit (I am also worried that this being the hot side of the head, whatever you plug the port gallery up with might do something bad and either fall out or cause some kind of weird crack through the exhaust port which would be bad...)
4 hours? Damn you move fast. I spent close to 40 working, then reworking my head and intake manifold
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I still have the exhaust port to do, the combustion chamber unshrouding and the intake halves to do. I bet I have LOTS more to go..LOL
My friend said he could tig up the jet valve holes, but I'm afraid of the heat needed to tig it. If I have to, I will get the eliminator kit for the 2.6 and see if it will work on the 2.0 litre.
Also, tigging up the holes will REALLY raise the compression and it might be too much for adding boost next year ( 5 psi )
I called a local company that regrinds cams to see if he can regrind my cam and remove the lobes for the jet valves.
I hope that in NA form to gain maybe 10 to 15 HP... Maybe a stretch... but its all in fund so any gain is worth the time.
Heads get welded up all the time. It'll come down to what he is doing to fill the redundant jet valve holes. A threaded alloy plug would be worth trying (he'd better be good at it as a hole somewhere will haunt you until you actually locate it or just get the thing pressure tested) If you want to run boost, use 2.0 turbo pistons (6 bolt sourced just to be sure). An adjustable cam gear might be worth factoring in. A little trial and error and you'll find the ideal cam timing for your driving style. You can find them cheap on ebay but it's a job to search through all the ridiculous price listings. Gaining 10-15 in NA will be a cinch if you use a better fuel delivery system and experiment with engine tune. Weber 32/36 will make 125HP max, the 38 will get you over that limit but any more and you'll need to think less about HP and more throttle response and torque. 39mm bike carbs on a chopped and welded up 4G64 intake - way better than a pair of Weber 45 DCOE's for economy and power delivery. No balance shafts, lightened flywheel, ditch the clutch fan. And there you have an NA powerhouse
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I will go going to either the 2 barrel or 4 barrel holley sniper system on the truck.
I have a blower and a turbo sitting here.
I thought about a suck through with the blower as it will easily fit on the drivers side with a flange bolted to the 1 half of the stock intake. If I go that way I will have to fab a lot of things which isn't a big deal.
I do have the stock carb manifold from the 2.0 here that I was going to mill and make an adapter for the 2 barrel sniper... but its a pretty awful design.
First off... replace the head, go to the track and see if i make any more HP..
Bear in mind the port work won't make 'power' by itself - it'll improve efficiency = better throttle response, smoother delivery, better acceleration. All hard things to measure on a dyno. But you'll make gains with being able to tune it more aggressively and unearth hidden power in the engine. Add some premium fuel and mess with the timing - it'll get up and go
Bike carbs can be had so cheaply - like $150 for a working set off ebay. I'd want to give this a shot but the exchange rate and freight are crippling
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The exchange rate the Canada is awful.
Any idea of other larger throttle bodies that bolt on to the 1991 intake?
Maybe an Evo throttle body. If I'm reading the info right, the 4G64 is a 55mm throttle body and Evo's have 65mm (?) This plus porting will get it breathing. They make bigger aftermarket TB's but I don't know what the compatibility would be like and if you'd need to do more mods to the manifold and plenum to make it work. They can be had on a budget too -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/70MM-Alumin...QAAOSwMsZdFbg- (thought this would be closest fit due to the year models on the listing)
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