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Thread: 91 Mighty Max build...BAG THAT S#^$

  1. #1


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    91 Mighty Max build...BAG THAT S#^$

    This is the build of my 91 MM....Im not looking to go nuts with this build..been there before and it takes too much time and money....Im planning on just a basic bag job to lay frame on 18 inch rims. Id like to have it on the road again by spring...Ill be working on this pretty much on the weekends only. Id like to hear suggestions as i go. I have tons of experience with s10 but nothing like this as far as bags go. I think ive read about everything on the net and am ready to cut into it.
    here are a few pics of it lowered on springs.....body needs some work but that will be for next year.....




    Last edited by Payrion; 11-21-2011 at 04:20 PM.

  2. #2


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    well i got it pulled in the garage, up on jack stands and front wheels off...i soaked the front down with cleaner to break up some of the 20 years of grease...Tomorrow if im up to it im planning on pulling the front fenders, bumper and grille...maybe break down the front hubs and brakes..ill snap a few pics tomorrow after im complete.

  3. #3


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    sweet........

  4. #4



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    If you've worked on s10 suspension, then these trucks are very close - hell, even the shocks are the same length front and rear and can be interchanged. Always wondered about swapping the spindles from an s10 to a d50 for more wheel and brake options though...
    Pennyman1
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  5. #5

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    Please don't do it.

  6. #6


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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    If you've worked on s10 suspension, then these trucks are very close - hell, even the shocks are the same length front and rear and can be interchanged. Always wondered about swapping the spindles from an s10 to a d50 for more wheel and brake options though...
    i have some s10 drop spindles here..what were ya thinking, swappn left for right to turn the tie rods to rear ?....i know the s 10 spindles are a crap load larger....

  7. #7


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    well got a little done tonight...got the existing springs out, pass spindle off, need a new pickle fork to get the driver lower ball joint off, stuck....Man im really glad i have a plasma this build..i couldnt get the shock bolt to stop spinning, so i cut the crap off in 1/2 second.
    here are a few pics, i found my dig camera so ill start taking better pics soon...



    these will go on..drop spindles


    the weapon tonight....picked it up from eastwood...uses hypertherm consumables, works great!


    tomorrow im gonna try to get the ball joint broke loose on the drivers side, and get the control arms off, remove fenders.....lets see if it happens...

  8. #8


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    Quote Originally Posted by LiL Bastard View Post
    Please don't do it.
    please dont do what?

  9. #9



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    he was refering to using s10 spindles on a d50...
    Pennyman1
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  10. #10


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    Are the upper ball joints press in...mine are so caked with crud I cant tell....lol..
    I got the fenders off tonight, lowers removed, strut bar and sway bar gone... gonna remove uppers tomorrow, cut out for lower bag plate and plan my pocket cut...pics tomorrow....
    ANYONE...need a sway bar, slightly cut stock springs, spindles? If no one speaks up i think they are going in the dump...

    o ya...boy were my lower bushings fried....they came out in 3 pieces....gonna order new in a minute.

  11. #11



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    Yea I replaced my lower bushings 6 months ago and they were done for lol, I'm sure everyone's truck on here could use a replacing if they havent done so. I'm pretty sure the upper b/j's are press in from what I can tell.
    Josh
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    89 Macrocab 4g63 Turbo swapped & Bagged: Build Thread

  12. #12



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    ask blindeyed. he just did ball joints on his truck.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
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  13. #13


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    the ball joints are easy to put in,they have a snap ring on the pin side. There is a small dot on the ball joint that lines up with a dot on the control arm.Just line the dots up and use a large socket or piece of pipe that is about the same size as the lip on the dome side of the ball joint, then tap it into the control arm. once their seated just install the snap ring on the pin side and you're done other then the grease boot.

  14. #14


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    Also Energy Suspension has lower,end link, strut rod, and rear leaf spring bushings if you want them in Polyurethane

  15. #15



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    Uppers are press in for all years - the lower bushings and strut rod bushings take a real beating on these trucks
    Pennyman1
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  16. #16


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    so no snap ring easy out? like 2 posts above?

  17. #17


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    Moog Part# MOK9372 1979-1993 Dodge D50/Ram 50


    this is the Moog upper ball joints as you see there is a snap ring. these are what I used in my rebuild. the ball joints are still press in but the ring is for added insurance.

  18. #18


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    ahhh ok...

  19. #19


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    im going to pick up some 1/4 " plate....What and for what reasons do people prefer upper floating cups or upper bag plate welded in or secured in some way......i measures and a 4 inch round welded to a round bag plate slightly offset would be great...i see no real need to secure the upper cup, floating should be fine...my first s10 was a floating upper cup.....just wanting some ideas

  20. #20


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    Here a couple pic's of how I did my front air that might give you some idea's

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I hope this helps.

  21. #21


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    looks gfreat..how did you get to the air line connection and bag mount...it looks as if ya welder a plate to mount the bag.

  22. #22


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    got the spring pockets cut out today...i didnt go all the way yet, still deciding what way om mounting the bag in the pocket.....have to wait til monday or so for metal....but cleaned up the lowers, started to clean the frame area around the pocket....here are a few pics..... I need my lower bushings to come in and get plate for lowers then i can finish the front...til then im gonna spend time with kerosene cleaning the front clip up good...


    see the seam in the pocket...anyone cut it and re weld it to keep it from rubbing the bag? or should i just offset the cup if i go that route?



    lowers cut up and sway bar mount removed


    its looking like a bagged truck..wooohooo


    me using that great plasma..i can go on enough about it for the price...

  23. #23



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    The top and bottom should be attached some how. Things like to move around. Even on a semi truck it is b bolted in place. It is only 1 or 2 bolts depending on the type of bag. If you loose air the bag can come out. Also some bags have a rubber bumper inside of them.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
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  24. #24


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    i hear ya but a lot of s10s have non bolted upper cups, my first truck had them. i know cando sells MM cups and if im correct they have no upper bolt. I always thought that too when the bag deflated it might come out but the truck weight and the pocket kept it all in place.

    https://candospecialties.com/Merchan...gory_Code=brkt

  25. #25


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    I opened the hole in the top of the shock tower to bolt the bag to the frame mount. The air lines run from the bottom of the lower control arm.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Plates welded to lower, with relocated shock mount

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Air lines run through the X-member and then used fittings made to go through a bulkhead

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