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Thread: New Member from WA - Picked up a little hooptie!

  1. #1

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    New Member from WA - Picked up a little hooptie!

    Hey all,

    I'm new to the is little truck thing. I picked up an 88 Power RAM 50 2.6l 5spd manual 4x4.

    Sweet little rig....a little neglected but my son an dI plan to invest some TLC

    Would love info on the Weber Carb upgrade and the manual hub upgrade as well.
    Attached Images

  2. #2

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    Hi and welcome to mightyram. Your Ram looks like it's in reasonably good shape - nothing a big clean won't fix going by your pics. We have a ton of info on the Weber install but the first thing to check out is this thread -

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Lots of relevant info in this page on the site - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...uning-amp-Smog

    (we really need a definitive guide with step by step instructions, related images and recommended parts condensed into a single page as a sticky)
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  3. #3

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    So work has been progressing and getting her road worthy and cleaned up. Looks like a rat got inside and made a home so cab clean out is underway.

    On the engine bay, replaced battery clamps, cleaned up the air cleaner, got new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, cleaned the heck outta the carb. Flushed and cleaned cooling system. She fires right up and runs smooth!

    Have been working on rear end, had drums turned and cleaned up, new rear brakes and hardware, and new Monroe shocks. Drained and refilled the rear diff with new gear oil.

    Front end is next on the to-do list.

    Questions/Needs:

    Where is the fuel filter?

    Radio/heater control trim/bezel any ideas where I can find one?

    wheels/tires: I’m looking at some 6 lugs off a mid 2000s 4Runner...those should be direct bolt on, right?
    1D0B06FD-57F0-4F7F-AC2A-ACF7E5574C6B.jpg

    Rear axle wheel bearings: looks like the rear axle isn’t easily removable....is it a sealed up system?

    Thanks for help, my Chiltons is back ordered so the forum is my lifesaver!!!
    3021C7EE-B328-4EAE-AECB-37002AAAE590.jpg3727D0C2-A4E6-41AA-8E41-D667659121A2.jpg0E8989FF-6489-4AC6-B6B4-471DED519CD8.jpg

  4. #4

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    Fuel filter will be in front of the rear wheel. Get under and look at the lines coming out of the tank. It should be right there. I have not done it yet but a lot of guys mount an electric fuel pump in this area to get rid of the manual one.

  5. #5

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    Is it this little bugger???44F7CD39-8B14-4111-A178-154E16CD2A32.jpg

    sitting right up between a crossmember and frame rail??

  6. #6

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    I have the gen one and it is opaque white plastic. That could be it if that is a fuel line going to it. I know it was a pia to change out.
    Edit-I just looked again and it seems yours is coated in greasy dirt but looks to be the opaque white plastic under that dirt so you are probably right on. There is a a lot of GEN 2 manuals on the manual section.

  7. #7

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    BTW Welcome. I used to stomp around Tacoma back in the 80's. Lived in a roach infested old building with Art Deco styling on 6th and Fawcett. Apparently it is gone now. They had a big greenhouse in the park up toward hillside with a lemon tree that grew lemons as big as your head.

  8. #8

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    1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    Here is the deal on the wheels. Depending on the center spacing on the wheels. You need 108mm to clear the rear hub that is sticking out. The front will work OK but om certain you will need to grind the tabs down so they will sit flush. The rear hub will need a spacer of 10mm thick and 108mm center so the rear wheels will set flush.

    I found these after digging and taking measurements.

    These will work or you could use larger spacers depending on the back spacing on the wheels. You will need to figure that out.

    https://www.amazon.com/Kyo-ei-Adapte.../dp/B008J76I98

    https://www.amazon.com/Kyo-ei-Adapte.../dp/B008J76I98

  9. #9

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  10. #10

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    Thanks Max!!! You're a lifesaver!!!

  11. #11

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    Just finished the drivers side front end rebuild. New shocks, rotor, caliper, bearings. On to the passenger side next!

    Was able to get the fuel filter changed out. It was a lot easier to just remove the little splash guard panel at the front of the rear wheel well to access the filter.

    We cut the old one open to see how she looked.....good thing I changed it!
    IMG_2758.jpgIMG_2762.jpguPuhCpJYTRmLXVJVlOt6tA.jpg

  12. #12

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    That filter has been forgotten for a long time. It was a time bomb waiting to sabotage the truck...
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  13. #13

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    That's some dirty dirt !!!
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  14. #14

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    so I saw some of the alternator threads....

    Whats the best hi amp alternator solution? Is there a direct bolt on upgrade? Any ideas on part numbers?

  15. #15

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    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...mp-alternators

    Bunch of options here, would be a safe bet that older Kia/Hyundai 90 amp alternators will work as well (depends on how they're mounted up)
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  16. #16

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    Front end refurb complete!

    new bearings, races, rotors, calipers, pads, shocks, sway bar links and bushings!!!

    We are coating the skid plates with bedliner before reinstalling them too.

    before and after of the passenger side. Also my 16yo son after finishing up the sway bar.
    851693C1-3E04-4FA7-AF8D-9E5E4D1EDB1C.jpgD7635D81-AF8E-49BD-AC97-53C1C5F673E2.jpg1ADB5227-9084-4D3E-8FFA-62B0E6B07400.jpg

  17. #17

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    Most excellent - now it'll stop and turn like new. Good to see you've got family rolling up the sleeves on the truck too
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  18. #18

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    Ok, ran into my first problem....Installed a new 75 amp alternator, and immediately after reconnecting batteries I got fizzling and smoke in the wires...

    I'm assuming something grounded out. Removed alternator got it tested, its good....Battery checks out. Reinstalled alternator, truck still starts, but I'm not kicking the voltage to the battery, the alternator is still putting out good juice.

    My question....can I just install a cable from the alternator to the battery + terminal?IMG_4558.jpg

  19. #19

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    Internal or external regulator?

  20. #20

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    Internal

  21. #21

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    Looks like I blew the thick wire (light blue) on my two wire fusible link coming off the positive batter cable. Any idea on the amperage rating of that link?? I’m either going to replace with a maxi fuse setup or rebuild the link myself.
    E0A56AD5-898F-4757-9DCA-6B9B93CD0E4C.jpg

  22. #22




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    look in the manual section - the amperage is by color.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  23. #23

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    We got it, rebuilt the link with a 2mm fusible link wire.

    Works like a charm and we are getting the right voltage and everything is happy!!
    A854E403-A571-4D00-B2F4-C64A63E714A5.jpg

  24. #24

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    Most excellent
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  25. #25

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    Took her out for the first trip out of the stable, ran great! Just need to adjust the rear brakes a little!

    5 Miles, parts store, car wash, and gas station made for a good road test!

    Need to get my seat back from the upholstery shop still to complete my refurb!

    B42EFA64-9FFD-4FEC-81B2-D65D9903F0E1.jpgC72625C9-75EF-4C4C-9B36-FEC04C71A3A3.jpg

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