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Thread: Im lost guys new to Mitsubishis

  1. #1

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    Join Date
    06-10-2018
    Posts
    4
    Location

    Kinston, NC
    Vehicle

    1993 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64

    Exclamation Im lost guys new to Mitsubishis

    So my 93 max has run nearly perfect for the past year other than typical maintenance. About 3 weeks ago I started it up to go to work and it had a solid miss. I let it warm up and after 10 or 15 minutes the miss generally went away and left it spitting and sputtering and popping a little in the exhaust. I did a complete NGK tune up of the ignition with no prevail as well as took the intake and throttle body apart for new gaskets and a good cleaning. After reassembling I started her up and she still ran rough but was a big improvement from before until I realized the MAF was unplugged . after plugging it in it started to sputter and had a fluxuation in idle. I need help guys I'm lost and have spent most of my savings with mechanics giving me the wrong diagnosis. Hopefully someone on here has had the same problem with a solution or at least some advice. Thanks guys.

  2. #2

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    01-24-2017
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    1,209
    Location

    New Zealand
    Vehicle

    1981 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    Other
    Did you replace the plug leads?
    You could try spray some starting fluid around the inlet manifold (an increase in rpm shows a leak in the gasket)
    I'm also thinking to check your exhaust for leaks, you will hear a ticking, and can usually see black marks or can feel it blowing out

  3. #3

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    06-15-2014
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    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    You may need to disconnect the battery for a while to reset the ECU, otherwise you can ground the tune wire in the engine bay and see if it forces the ECU to accept any changes in tune (this is necessary when performing an engine tune and should been done when you install new lead/plugs and adjust the distributor) There are a number of things that will cause an engine to run rough anything from a mechanical failure like a cracked head, a faulty sensor (temperature, O2 exhaust, TPS, MAF) or a vacuum or exhaust leak. If you have a timing light it will tell you if you're getting an ignition fault by it not triggering continuously (you should check your base timing anyway) - a dwell/tach meter will definitely expose a fault with anything between the coil and the distributor. Clueless and/or crooked workshops are the reason why I went off and did my certificate. I got fed up with being burned every time something went wrong with my car...
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