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Thread: Sorry for the delayed intro..

  1. #1

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    Sorry for the delayed intro..

    Hey, everyone! I'm Scott. I picked up this D50 about three months ago, but have been lingering on this page for a while now. I figured it was about time to introduce myself.

    This thing has been pretty rock solid despite my best efforts to kill it. I hoped that the oil pressure switch would have warned me, but it didn't and I started it with less than a quart in it and blew the rings.

    So I was lucky enough to find a guy about 20 miles from me with a few Plymouth Arrows and I talked him out of one of his spare engines that thankfully was the "wide block".

    After I did the swap I posted my first question here and Giovanni was a huge help (thanks again)

    Anyway, just wanted to show off a bit and say hello!

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    Also, I'm like 95% percent sure that I have a '79 thats sitting in a newer chassis because it has the G54B and four wheel drive, but the plate on the firewall says it came with the G52B which I don't think ever was four wheel drive. If anyone can confirm and maybe tell me where to look for a vin on the frame that would be awesome.

  2. #2

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    I think the first 4x4's had the 4G52 which were wideblock. The paint looks awesome, reminds me of the colour I used on a wagon years ago (Nason starburst blue enamel) The PO put some effort into it with the cosmetics. Tidy!
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  3. #3

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    Thanks Geezer. I guess I forgot to add the pictures of the bad paint

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    Just some cracking bondo.

  4. #4

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    Sweet looking truck! Glad I was a help. I'm still a newbie here. A lot of what I've learned about these trucks is from reading the posts from the folks who have owned them longer than I've been alive. And a lot of trial and error.

  5. #5

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    Lots of good potential here...definitely looking forward to the progress !
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  6. #6

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    Thanks Royster. First things first I have to fix the oil leak. Pretty sure its the pan gasket. Even though I changed it twice during the swap. The oil pan from the Arrow is not compatible with the four wheel drive. Second I already have an electric fuel pump to install. It's a Spectra E8016S with a maximum psi of 4.5. Third I have to replace the whole exhaust. The PO repaired it cheaply so whatever doesn't escape from the multiple leaks has to go through a cat and two mufflers. After that I can start fixing the paint and body!

    Should be a fun journey!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottadams14 View Post
    Thanks Geezer. I guess I forgot to add the pictures of the bad paint

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    Just some cracking bondo.
    ...a picture tells a thousand lies lol. If you can find a decent hood just hit it with some satin black paint. Good for killing glare when you're hitting the dirt. It definitely looks like enamel. My paint started doing that (maybe from lack of hardener, I dunno ) but it looked spectacular when I first did it. This paint is a PITA to fix too, NASON seems to have a issue with matching it's own paint (bought 2 cans of the 'same' colour, one had a green flip in it, the original was purple - go figure...) That aside, you've got a cool truck
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  8. #8




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    in the USA, we got the 4x4 models in late 82, and they were all Dodges, and all 2.6. The 2.0 4x4s came later with the g63b motors. My bet is that that frame and drivetrain is at least an 82 or newer. The partial serial number is on the rear section of the frame, but I don't remember which side.
    Pennyman1
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  9. #9

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    That's what I was thinking too Pennyman. I'll get under there tomorrow and take a look.

    And Geezer, I wish that was the hood, but sadly its the roof. I could just paint the roof black. That wouldn't look that weird. I was just gonna try and pull the cracking off of the door and smooth it out the bast I could and do a black circle and both the drivers and passengers side to make that look less weird.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottadams14 View Post
    That's what I was thinking too Pennyman. I'll get under there tomorrow and take a look.

    And Geezer, I wish that was the hood, but sadly its the roof. I could just paint the roof black. That wouldn't look that weird. I was just gonna try and pull the cracking off of the door and smooth it out the bast I could and do a black circle and both the drivers and passengers side to make that look less weird.
    Damn, I should've seen it was the roof (no hood line ridge) I got a solution - sunroof! No bondo (that has got to be hiding some rust), no repaint. A black roof will cook you in summer but the tilt up sunroof will do the opposite. Trucks came with a sunroof option too. Good if you don't have A/C.
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  11. #11

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    I was thinking the same thing as geezer. If you're going to paint it, consider white. I just got some of those reflective fabric windshield shades. It is incredible the difference in temperature that reflecting sun and heat away makes.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Giovanni89 View Post
    I was thinking the same thing as geezer. If you're going to paint it, consider white. I just got some of those reflective fabric windshield shades. It is incredible the difference in temperature that reflecting sun and heat away makes.
    Stark white on metallic blue is a classic look. Doesn't solve the crappy bondo fix, the dent(s) or the potential rust hiding in there though. Despite the battle damage this is a cool beast. If only you could be 100% sure of what paint was used (I still think it's NASON starburst blue enamel)
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  13. #13

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    I'm afraid white might make it look a little too busy with the blue/black/chrome thing going on. I guess I'll figure it out when I finally get to the body work (not my specialty).

    I was also hoping to upgrade my alternator, but have been a little confused on what is compatible with my truck being two different trucks. I know I have a plug with two wires going into the alt and its externally regulated. I guess I just don't know if I have the '79 wiring or the newer chassis wiring. I know after '83 I would be able to use a starquest alt, right?

  14. #14

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    Ill have to do a write up on my ac delco 10/12si alternator setup. They are cheap, readily available at any parts store, and reliable. I got all the info from http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml I just had to make it fit with some offset brackets. I replaced the generator in my Falcon with one, and basically had to wire it from scratch. It's pretty easy. Voltage sensing wire, charge wire, and dash light wire.

  15. #15

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    Hey guys, I was hoping one of you had some insight for me. I can't seem to get my output shaft seals to stop leaking. I know I've changed the front one twice and the rear once and they both keep leaking. The truck has a 2" body lift which I am new to lifted trucks (I usually go the other way) but I thought the benefit of a body lift over a suspension lift is that it keeps the geometry for the drivelines true.

  16. #16

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    An old school trick with fixing weeping seals was to take the spring tensioner coil out of them and cutting 2-3 coils off the open end and reassembling it. You shafts may be the culprit here. They are as old as the truck and may be worn down just enough that the seals no longer adequately do their job.
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  17. #17

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    Yah might need a speedy sleeve or new hardware to stop the leak

  18. #18

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    Do you know which size Speedi Sleeve I might need? Also, I'm not entirely clear on how they work.

  19. #19

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    You would have to measure the shaft and the seal housing and see what's available. The shaft could possibly be built up with spray metal and spun back down do size

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