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Thread: Junker turned daily driver.

  1. #226

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    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    I got to mess with it a little this evening. With vac line disconnected holding it at 2k rpm it barely moved to about 6-7 btdc. On idle it was at 5. With the line hooked up it's at 5* btdc. Holding it @ 2k rpm it was at 30+ btdc. Even after it warmed up really good it still tries to hiccup and backfire thru the carb. I feel like its advancing way too much.

  2. #227

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    Any tips on how to reduce advanced timing?

  3. #228

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    1989 Dodge Ram 50
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    I think you have two problems but let others chime in as well. At 2k rpm i believe you should be seeing more advance from the mechanical advance. Base timing should be 7 degrees, at least on my 89. I believe your mechanical advance may be sticking. 30 seems a bit high for the vacuum advance, especially if your mechanical isn't engaging. When I replaced my distributor this summer, it was listed as working with a ram 50 or starion. The vacuum advance unit that came on the distributor was pulling way too much advance causing all kinds of pinging under light cruise. I had a new vacuum advance unit and I swapped it out and it was fine after that. There were numbers stamped on the arm of the vacuum advance unit. The distributor I believe came with a "12" and the new one I had on the shelf I believe was stamped "10". I'm guessing it's mm of pull, but I'm not sure. Someone on here who knows mitsubishis better than myself may have better technical information than that.
    I would start by disassembling the distributor. Mark the gear with witness marks before pulling it off the shaft so that it goes back on the same way.
    Check the mechanical advance linkage for any binding or scoring. Also, see if there are any numbers stamped on your vacuum unit. I'll see if I can dig mine out in the garage to confirm the numbers.

  4. #229

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    5* is where I've got it to run the best. I'll definitely take a look to see if I can find any numbers stamped on it.

  5. #230

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    I suspect it runs best at 5 degrees because the vacuum is over advancing it. The arm on the one that did not work was stamped 11.5 I measured the travel at 5mm, so i'm not sure what the 11.5 means. Maybe corresponds to a vacuum level to make it actuate? I may pull my distributor tomorrow to replace the distributor drive gear on the cam. I have been meaning to put it in for a little while now. If I do I'll pop off the vacuum unit and see what the numbers are that are stamped on the one that works well.

  6. #231

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    Quote Originally Posted by Giovanni89 View Post
    I suspect it runs best at 5 degrees because the vacuum is over advancing it. The arm on the one that did not work was stamped 11.5 I measured the travel at 5mm, so i'm not sure what the 11.5 means. Maybe corresponds to a vacuum level to make it actuate? I may pull my distributor tomorrow to replace the distributor drive gear on the cam. I have been meaning to put it in for a little while now. If I do I'll pop off the vacuum unit and see what the numbers are that are stamped on the one that works well.
    Is it the counterweights' actual weight in grams?
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  7. #232

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not the best shots, but you can see the numbers stamped on the arm. When I installed my new distributor it ran like crap. Check to see if you have any numbers stamped on yours. 11.5 was no good. 10 runs great. Luckily I had the new advance unit sitting on the shelf. I had planned on overhauling the original dizzy, but I had a ton of wear in the mechanical advance that was more trouble than the cost of a new one.

  8. #233

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    Ah, ok. It's not what I thought - it's the servo linkage. Nup, doesn't help. Still haven't got a clue what it translates to...
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  9. #234

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    I will definitely pop mine open to check it.

  10. #235

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    Looks like 11.5 to me. Any suggestions where to find a 10?

  11. #236

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    Mine was from rock auto. Standard Motor Products VC268. About 15 bucks.

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