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Thread: Junker turned daily driver.

  1. #151




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    get a 192 degree reverse flow thermostat - it gives higher flow with the higher temp for winter. The 2.6 motors run best with the 192 / 195 stats. The 180 stats were stock on the 79 - 80 2.6 motors - I changed Geronimo's after the first winter to get heat, and never went back to a 180.
    Pennyman1
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  2. #152

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    Pennyman, what is a reverse flow thermostat? Every thermostat I've put in my truck does a strange thing. Starting from dead cold, the coolant will reach 210-220 degrees before the thermostat opens and it drops down to 190-195. Not to hi-jack, but does anyone know what causes this?

  3. #153

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    Is it because there's cold coolant above the thermostat acting like a thermal heat sink on the thermostat itself? The coolant below it is reaching operating temperature which the gauge sender is reading correctly. A theory...
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  4. #154

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    The thermostat opening point is the point where it starts opening. Add another 10degrees and it will be fully open. So a 190 might not be fully open till 200 or so

  5. #155

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    Believe I'm going back to the 192 it is staying cooler now and isn't warming up at all in the morning and this evening driving around after work it still wasn't reading hot enough.

  6. #156

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    And I'm glad I have a spare fuel pump ready. The setup I have now pumps really hard in the morning when it's cool and in the evening it's not pumping near enough. It night and day difference from morning to evening.

  7. #157




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    a reverse flow thermostat refers to the valve that opens and closes - the valve opens in reverse of the standard stat in the direction of flow instead of against it, allowing for unrestricted flow when open.
    Pennyman1
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  8. #158

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Is it because there's cold coolant above the thermostat acting like a thermal heat sink on the thermostat itself? The coolant below it is reaching operating temperature which the gauge sender is reading correctly. A theory...
    That makes sense, because if the truck has been sitting for long enough that the temp is near the bottom of the gauge, it will get up to operating and stay there without the temp spike. Enough heat surrounding the thermostat that it does it's normal thing.
    Pennyman, do you have a link to one of these reverse flow thermostats? Next time I replace mine I think i'll go that route.
    And Junker, A new fuel pump might have an effect on your lean spots. The Weber's are pretty sensitive to fuel pressure and adequate flow. Maybe the pump is getting weak on you once you have some under hood heat on the highway?

  9. #159




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    Here is a link - search for a better price:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stant-45869...AAAOSwe25bIqXr
    Pennyman1
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  10. #160

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    I got the same one for rock auto for 5 bucks last year. Guess I have been running a reverse flow all along

  11. #161

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    What size fuel line do y'all recomend for installing one of the carbole pumps back by the fuel tank? I thought I read where someone said 3/8. Trying to figure out which size to keep down on pressure loss.

  12. #162




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    3/8ths is too big for that pump - use 5/16ths.
    Last edited by pennyman1; 10-12-2018 at 06:15 PM.
    Pennyman1
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  13. #163

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    I may need to tackle it in the morning went on a quick run this evening and could barely get over 2 grand before it would lean out.

  14. #164




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    the pump is too small for that 3/8th line - too much pressure drop. You would need a pump with 2 - 3 times the GPH of that pump to keep the line full...
    Pennyman1
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  15. #165

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    Can I just use the factory fuel line along the frame rail? It is everyone running all new hose from tank to the carb?

  16. #166

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    I went ahead and just ran new line all the way. BUT.... While I was looking it over for leaks u can literally see the gas fumes coming from the pump.

  17. #167

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    I wonder if the mr gasket one is any better.

  18. #168

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87junker View Post
    I went ahead and just ran new line all the way. BUT.... While I was looking it over for leaks u can literally see the gas fumes coming from the pump.
    Disregard it must have been my imagination.

  19. #169

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    https://youtu.be/73cwgqGwUc4

    Ok so I may have got a little ahead of my self earlier. Runs better now. Here's a video of it cruising. It does much better at higher rpms. Still seems like some is going on between cruising and getting on it. It leans out until the accelerator pump can catch up.

  20. #170

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87junker View Post
    I wonder if the mr gasket one is any better.
    It's the same pump. Right down to the part number cast onto the side of the pump body.
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  21. #171

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    Might be timing as well. If you haven't gone through altering the distributor advance curve it might feel a bit funky going through the transition of the secondary opening. I haven't trusted factory timing specs since I started experimenting with tuning.
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  22. #172

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    Went to drive it to the farm today and had to turn around. Ran like crap. Temp gauge never moved after 20 minutes of driving radiator and hoses were barely warm. Kept reading really lean. QUESTION how rich does a motor have to be to give a false lean reading.

  23. #173

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    I imagine rich enough that you would see a puff of black smoke coming out of the tailpipe. But that's just a guess. It can't hurt to double check your ignition. Taking apart the distributor and lubing up the fly weights might not be a bad idea. Mine were getting sticky and causing all kinds of weird driveability issues. If your weights are stuck advanced when you set the timing, you'll actually be running way retarded. Disconnecting the the vacuum advance and watching your timing light as you rev the engine up slowly should give you an idea of whats going on. Any jerky, or lack of movement of the timing is reason to inspect. If it does not return to the same base timing, also inspect.
    I know it's not the recommended setup, but I run a Carter P4070 fuel pump that I have mounted above the drivers wheel, where the emissions control was. It's been in service over 55k miles with no problems. I put it into a Holley regulator set to 3 psi. One of the things I like about this setup, is that the line from the tank up to the engine bay is all under vacuum, not pressure. Lines under vacuum spew much less gas if they fail. It also keeps the pump and wiring out of the road salt

  24. #174

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    Is there a total timing setting any one is using? Sounds like I'm having timing/vacuum issues. I'll get into the distributor to see if its sticking but now that u say that it may be my problem u can feel when it kicks in. Kind of like a powerband kicks in on a dirtbike.

  25. #175

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    Could be the vac advance is toast. I haven't been able to find a used distributor with a good vac advance. I think when I get around to installing the 34 DATA, I might use a 4G64 distributor and eliminate vacuum from the equation...
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