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Thread: Junker turned daily driver.

  1. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by Giovanni89 View Post
    Try running a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the 12 volt side of the ballast resistor. That will give power to the ballast resistor, coi,l and icm. If it starts up then you know it's something upstream of the ballast resistor, ignition switch or wiring. If it doesn't start its something downstream of that connection, ICM, coil, ballast resistor, or bad ground.

    I tried what u said I found something very interesting. As soon as I hooked it up everything came on like I turned the key to "on"

  2. #52

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    Still won't start with the jumper wire. Gonna try and warranty the distributor. They won't just swap out icm they want the whole distributor.

  3. #53

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    It was backfeeding to the keyed side of the switch once the jumper was hooked up. If you disconnect the power feed to the resistor from the ignition it wont do that, but no harm done. If you don't have one of these, get one. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-I...e+spark+tester
    Fastest way to check for a no spark or weak spark. Checking in open air is not the same as checking in a cylinder with compressed air and fuel. The amount of power needed to spark under those conditions is far greater. At 12 bucks you can't afford to not have one!
    I think warrantying it is not a bad idea. Electronics generally fail fairly quickly, or last a long time. Just like a rebuilt engine, or a machine tool. My number one rule of diagnosing is always suspect the new parts. I've been burned too many times assuming because something is newer it is still good.

  4. #54

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  5. #55

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    Got my spark tester in. And nothing. While cranking no spark at all. When u turn the key on I get a faint spark and the same when I turn the key of none while cranking.

  6. #56

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    It sounds to me like a bad icm again. I would warranty that distributor. The wiring should look like this little sketch. Make sure your icm isnt hooked up to the 6volt side of the ballast resistor. That would probably burn it up
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #57




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    yes it would - dc circuits with low voltage draw more current to make up the shortfall, which cooks things...
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  8. #58

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    Got the dist out they have one for me tomorrow. I should have it back in this weekend.

  9. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    If you are ever unfortunate enough to end up on your lid, you'll soon realise that bar is worth every cent. I want one for my Gen1 as the turret on the cab has all the structural integrity of a chinese take away box. You got a rear slider window too? The 'junker' is shaping up nicely - very cool
    I've got one on my truck. I recently removed the back braces tho. They took up too much bed space. I've got my lights mounted on the other part.

  10. #60

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    https://youtu.be/r7jDH1kRfo0

    2nd distributor is back in and running. Test drive went good. Drove it to work this morning and as I was in the McDonalds drive thru the temp gauge started climbing. A/C was on and they were running slow as normal so I'll be monitoring that now.

  11. #61

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    Glad to hear she is up and running again! Check your fan clutch. With the engine hot if you shut the truck off and then try and spin the fan it shouldn't go more than 1 revolution. Thats the rule of thumb I know, but someone more familiar with these trucks may have a different amount of rotation.
    I run a rigid mounted dirt track fan that required drilling out and retapping the water pump flange. Cools the truck awesome, but the water pump isn't made for that much thrust load. I got about 30 or 35k miles out of the first water pump it was mounted on

  12. #62




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    electric fan is what to go with - it cools better, and frees up horsepower.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  13. #63

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    Any recommendations on an electric? The one I tried didn’t have enough flow. I made a shroud for it too

  14. #64




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    get one 1800 and up CFM - I used a Derale on Geronimo
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  15. #65

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    Coolant must have just been low. Put some water in it and its has been finfine since. I did order some new primary idle jets today. I'm gonna try and get some some more giddy up out of the old weber.

  16. #66

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    I suspect my poor luck with electric was because i used a questionable fan. The Derale's look nice, and cost 4 times as much as the one I tried.
    Hope she's not drinking the coolant.

  17. #67

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    I ordered some new primary idle jets from Allstate carb. I had a 60 in it. I put a 70 in and readjusted everything and it ran a lot better. It still seems to want to quit pulling after 55mph. I can hit 65 but it takes for ever and it feels like it done it has no more in it. Wonder if larger secondary jets would do the trick too?

  18. #68

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    Still has a lot of crackles in the exhaust.

  19. #69

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    Try dialling in your ignition tune. Hold the rpm @ 2000 and gently swing the distributor either way between advance and retard until you notice the engine rpm's spike by themselves, back it off just a touch then lock the distributor in place (it wouldn't hurt to undersize the plug gaps either by about 0.05 - 0.1mm) Should give you more midrange to top end power, an improvement in top speed and pull through gear changes faster. As for the secondary jets, going up might cause a flat spot in the transition into midrange. The exhaust crackle could be an indication that the timing is retarded. Also the exhaust system design has a hand in it too. Less bends and restrictions cause the exhaust pulse to scavenge the combustion chambers a little more aggressively.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net Get perks and donations $15 USD and over receive official MightyRam50.Net window decals

  20. #70

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    Scheduled to have a new windshield installed Wednesday. I've been getting death stares from all the local cops. Busted windshield and a dead inspection sticker I'm not sure how I've made it this long.

  21. #71

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    New windshield installed.

  22. #72

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    How much did the new glass set you back? I'm curious on how the prices compare to Oz. I can get new glass for $110 AUD and another $110 will get it installed.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net Get perks and donations $15 USD and over receive official MightyRam50.Net window decals

  23. #73

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    It was 185.00 USD installed.

  24. #74

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    Hmm, converting USD to AUD, it's cheaper in Oz but not too far off price wise ($20ish USD)
    I'm surprised - for once I'm actually getting a decent deal locally
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net Get perks and donations $15 USD and over receive official MightyRam50.Net window decals

  25. #75

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    Still no luck on getting some top speed out of it. Tried to swing the distributor back and forth. No luck. More timing it was wanting to backfire through the carb less timing it bogged and barely hit 45 mph. It's been running fine since I swapped the primary idle jet. It will run up to 3500 4000 rpm in first thru third gear but as soon as u go into fourth about 2500 rpm is it and in fifth with the pedal to the floor 2100-2200 rpm is all it's got. I'm gonna swap air filters to see if that will help some but it has a k&n that I cleaned and oiled as soon as I got it.

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