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Thread: Junker turned daily driver.

  1. #76

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    Are you running an open element K&N or is it like the factory sealed air cleaner? Going for an open element filter is bad news. It will do a couple of things - #1: pull hot air directly from the engine bay. Guaranteed to kill performance. #2: decrease the length of the air intake tract. Robs engine of torque. They can also do some other scary things. If you get a backfire through the carb, it will roast the filter foam. Gets sucked straight into the engine. They also have a tendency to shrink. Air will bypass around the bottom edges of the filter which completely voids the filtering efficiency. It is better to use the stock air cleaner and lengthen the intake pipe. It will help to improve torque.
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  2. #77

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    Flex-a-lite makes a nice electric fans and their fan controllers are good as well. I haven't used derale fans, but their fan controllers are junky.

  3. #78

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    Screenshot_20180815-140812_Gallery.jpg

    It's just the regular setup Ive seen on a weber.

  4. #79

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    It's the open element filter that most people use but this is part of the problem with upgrading to the Weber. At least it's not a cheap sponge foam filter but these will cause A/F ratio issues especially in summer due to it pulling a hot air charge. If you can rig up a modded stock air cleaner or make a sealed remote system and have it ducted from a location where it can pick up air from outside the engine bay, it will improve how the engine runs and aid economy as well.
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  5. #80

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  6. #81

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    Well good thing I'm kinda handy with a welder and the po didnt trash the original air cleaner. He did try to modify it to fit a weber and by modify I mean butcher. But a new flat plate on the bottom and a good clean cut out of the weber shape and I should be able to make it fit.

  7. #82

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    2nup350 did I see a YouTube video on this.

  8. #83

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    Depending on what height the air cleaner wants to sit on the Weber, you might not need to weld anything. Maybe an offcut of alu sheeting rivetted and silicon'd will do the trick. Trace the top cover pattern straight onto the alu sheet, cut out for the top of the Weber and shift it around until it centres itself under the air cleaner box. Trim it down to make it neat, bam a couple of rivets in and a bead of silicon. Too freakin' easy
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  9. #84

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    20180816_191934.jpg

    I didnt have to do much to get it to fit. But now to route a hose to fresh air. I'm thinking of a snorkel possibly. Everyone loves cutting big holes in their fenders right?

  10. #85

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    And I have a question this valve I'm sure is irrelevant now with a weber. Did I read somewhere about removing and putting a plug in the manifold?20180816_192511.jpg

  11. #86

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    With some of the kits they come with a threaded bung that blocks off the EGR system. A friend of mine suggested that, instead of using a bung to block it off, it could have an O2 sensor fitted in there. That way you not only solve the EGR delete problem but can add an A/F gauge to monitor your ratios. Good for setting base mixture A/F and have an indicator of where your best economy is on throttle.
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  12. #87

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    20180817_114220.jpg

    So I had to wait a little bit on a factory air filter and to go buy some hose to route to the hole by the headlight. So far nothing has really changed. I adjusted the idle air mixture screw and still the same top speed and same once u get into 4th and 5th. 1st-3rd is better more get up and go it seems when I take of kinda fast but taking off slow it seems like its bogging more now. A big plus now when down shifting it doesn't sound like an indy car. The popping and cracking is almost gone. Still need to do some tuning it seems.

  13. #88

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    Still a lot of heat in the engine compartment. Everything under the hood is always too hot to touch. The factory air cleaner was even super hot. Gauge isn't showing hot but it could be reading wrong it is man made and 31 years old.

  14. #89

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    I was hoping my new sticker would help make it faster too20180817_195927.jpg

  15. #90

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    I put an AEM wideband O2 in my truck. Definitely makes tuning the weber a lot easier. Unless you just have a tired engine, I think you can probably get a lot more out of it. My 2.6 is in front of a 4 speed slush box and I cruise at 75 all the time on the primary barrel only. When I first got the truck and the carb was not set up right, I would be in the secondary to hold 75.

  16. #91

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    FYI it doesn't hurt to go back and check hose clamps on fuel lines after a little while. Started running funny and got a strong smell of fuel. Went ahead and tighted all my clamps.

  17. #92




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    One item that works well on the weber is running a taller air filter. I have one on Geronimo with a cowl induction hood scoop that is functional. The taller filter allows the air to have a straighter path to the top of the carb, and has less time to pick up heat. The stack weber carbs come with restrictive filters that make the air bend all kinds of ways, and chokes the carb off. Look at the gallery pics for the air filter I am running. Unfortunately, it is only for the DGEV, but if you have the dfav, they make an adaptor that lets you use the factory air cleaner assembly.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  18. #93

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    20180903_193859.jpg

    20180903_193913.jpg

    Finally finished up my poor boy paintjob.

  19. #94

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    With some of the kits they come with a threaded bung that blocks off the EGR system. A friend of mine suggested that, instead of using a bung to block it off, it could have an O2 sensor fitted in there. That way you not only solve the EGR delete problem but can add an A/F gauge to monitor your ratios. Good for setting base mixture A/F and have an indicator of where your best economy is on throttle.

    Any help on finding the thread sizes for a bung to put an o2 sensor in the manifold. I just twisted the pipe in two so now I'm definitely putting an o2 sensor in.

  20. #95

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    M18x1.5

  21. #96

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    Quote Originally Posted by tortron View Post
    M18x1.5
    That's for the sensor itself? I'm looking for the size that threads into the manifold so the o2 can thread into it.

  22. #97

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    That's for the sensor
    You would typically weld a bung in not thread it in. Bungs are like $10 and an exhaust shop will do it in half an hour

  23. #98

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    Best I can find is the red valve tube has m30x1.5 threads so I will need a reducer that goes from m30-1.5 to m18-1.5

  24. #99

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    With some of the kits they come with a threaded bung that blocks off the EGR system. A friend of mine suggested that, instead of using a bung to block it off, it could have an O2 sensor fitted in there. That way you not only solve the EGR delete problem but can add an A/F gauge to monitor your ratios. Good for setting base mixture A/F and have an indicator of where your best economy is on throttle.
    I'm having a hard time finding a reducer to thread into the manifold.

  25. #100

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    I used the stock O2 sensor port to thread in my wide band O2. I did have to remove the manifold and do a little "port work" with the die grinder. To block off the egr tube, I removed the tube and cut it. Took the nut off. I bored it out on my lathe and made a stainless steel plug with a bar end from the scrap bin at work. I used a quite heavy interference fit. .004" or .005" i think and pressed it in with a 20 ton press. Has been in there for 50k miles. You could probably weld a piece of flat bar over the top of the nut too and just thread it back in.
    She looks good painted!

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