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Thread: Junker turned daily driver.

  1. #101

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    So the heat shield is giving me fits. I'm trying really hard not to break any bolts. Gonna let the pb blaster chill for the evening.

  2. #102

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    Somehow this evening murphys law didnt apply itself to my project. All the bolts came loose and everything went together smoothly. O2 sensor is installed.

  3. #103

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    https://youtu.be/smHHpsm--1E

    Here is the initial run. It's very rich at idle and cruising thru 3rd. 4th isn't bad just cruising but when u get on it then it starts leaning out then 5th is about the same unless I'm into the secondary.

  4. #104

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    I was hoping just the sticker would make it run better.

  5. #105

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87junker View Post
    ...Somehow this evening murphys law didnt apply itself to my project. All the bolts came loose and everything went together smoothly. O2 sensor is installed.
    Oh you gonna get it now bro Adjust the air/fuel mixture screw to tame the rich idle (will be a piece of cake once you have the O2 sensor and a gauge installed). You really need to give your engine bay a big clean. Non caustic oven cleaner - try it. Cheap to buy, easy to get, works awesome and one can is usually enough for one lap of an engine bay.
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  6. #106

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    Do u think I went too big on the primary idle jet? It had a 60 originally and I put a 70. I've got a 65 to try too.

  7. #107

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    Went to the 65 and its around 12.2 now. It still has some funny flat spots where it leans out under throttle in 4th and 5th gear.

  8. #108

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    The more I run it the leaner it got to where it would hardly run. Went back to the 70.

  9. #109

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    Primary idle has to be a touch rich to keep up with demand when you go in on-throttle.
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  10. #110

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    I wonder if the power valve could have went bad already? If I just shift normal it shows lean until I give it some more gas then u can hear the tone change and drops down around 13.8.

  11. #111

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    Searched all over for a vacuum leak nothing found.

  12. #112

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    I took a spare power valve (the part that threads into the bottom of the bowl) gutted it and soldered it shut. I found that it leaned it out all over the place, not just where I thought it should. Mine runs pretty well right now, I put a ton of miles on it, but I've experimented a bit with modifying the emulsion tubes. I may take a little bit off of the length of the power valve spring which should cause it to engage later, or possibly file down the top of the pin on the thread in valve.
    I have opened up exhaust and valves with undercut stems, so I believe I flow a bit better than stock. I was never able to get enough air into it at idle. Drilling a 1mm hole in the primary barrel throttle plate, opposite of the transition ports, made a world of difference for me. I also removed the idle air correction bushing and drilled and tapped it to accept the main fuel jets, so that I have better control over the idle circuit. I think the 2.6 is just a wee bit too big for the stock idle circuit.
    Now that you have a wideband, you will have many sleepless nights

  13. #113

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    Quote Originally Posted by Giovanni89 View Post
    I took a spare power valve (the part that threads into the bottom of the bowl) gutted it and soldered it shut. I found that it leaned it out all over the place, not just where I thought it should. Mine runs pretty well right now, I put a ton of miles on it, but I've experimented a bit with modifying the emulsion tubes. I may take a little bit off of the length of the power valve spring which should cause it to engage later, or possibly file down the top of the pin on the thread in valve.
    I have opened up exhaust and valves with undercut stems, so I believe I flow a bit better than stock. I was never able to get enough air into it at idle. Drilling a 1mm hole in the primary barrel throttle plate, opposite of the transition ports, made a world of difference for me. I also removed the idle air correction bushing and drilled and tapped it to accept the main fuel jets, so that I have better control over the idle circuit. I think the 2.6 is just a wee bit too big for the stock idle circuit.
    Now that you have a wideband, you will have many sleepless nights
    Sounds like tutorial material to me...
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  14. #114

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    Maybe when I get it right I've gone back and forth on a ton of things. It's certainly streetable tho, I commute 100 miles a day with it.
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Sounds like tutorial material to me...

  15. #115



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    Quote Originally Posted by Giovanni89 View Post
    Maybe when I get it right I've gone back and forth on a ton of things. It's certainly streetable tho, I commute 100 miles a day with it.
    Geezer commutes uphill in both directions too!


    I use to commute to San Francisco everyday as well. Just a couple miles under 100 a day. Truck was used for 10 years doing that drive and never failed.
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  16. #116

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    Hopefully I'll get it to that point eventually. I hope to have new tires by this weekend. Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #117

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    New tires all around now.
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  18. #118

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    Looking good mate. What tyres did you go for?

  19. #119

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    Looks like it means business
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  20. #120

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    Sweet!

  21. #121

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    Quote Originally Posted by tortron View Post
    Looking good mate. What tyres did you go for?
    Nexen roadian mt 235/75/15.

  22. #122

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    So I tore back into my weber. Power valve diaphragm is bad again and excuse my crude drawing of all the jets as of now. Anyone have any suggestions on where to start on jetting for a 2.6l?

  23. #123

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    From what I'm finding the jet sizes are for a factory DGAV minus the primary idle jet I've changed.
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  24. #124

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    Just ordered an new power valve diaphragm and some main jets and air collectors. Any one any good with figuring out emulsion tubes? Or can tell me the characteristics of what certain sizes do to the operation of the carb?

  25. #125

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    Get a spare emulsion tube before you start meddling. I did a lot of research on them, and here are the big things that I took away. Holes at the top will lean lower in the rpm range. Holes at the bottom will lean higher in the rpm range. Holes above the fuel bowl level will delay the activation of the main jet because the air can flow through those holes and into the venturi without emulsifying any fuel. Too many holes at the top will lean out the high rpm as well. Holes that are below the fuel bowl level will cause the main circuit to activate earlier and enrich the mixture.
    The diameter of the emulsion tube and steps/taper also plays a part in how it acts. Generally speaking, the larger the diameter of the emulsion tube, the less fuel reserve in the emulsion tube well and leaner it will be.
    My jetting is far different from anything I have come across, but I feel it runs fairly well. It starts at 100 degrees, or 13 below. Doesn't diesel any more when I shut it off. I've towed up to 3000lbs, cruise routinely at 75 on the highway without having my foot buried in the throttle, and return an average of 22mpg mixed driving with the automatic.
    I don't have it written down, but I believe what I am running (although i have a opened up exhaust and undercut valve stems) is a 130 main, 140 or 150 main air corrector. a 60 or 65 idle, and a 170 idle air corrector (I modified my carb to accept main jets as idle air corrector jets) but 170 is the stock size. I also have a 1mm hole drilled in my throttle plate opposite of the transition ports. I could never get the idle right until allowing more air in with the hole in the throttle plate. Otherwise I would have to have the idle speed screw in too far, and it would always diesel.
    I think from here I need to reduce my idle air jet to get it to richen up just a tad at highway light throttle cruise, but this will mean enlarging the hole in the throttle plate to get enough air at idle. I also need to lean it out at low rpm heavy throttle which I will most likely try to accomplish with a few extra small holes in my emulsion tube. I am running a stock f50 at the moment.

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