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Thread: Junker turned daily driver.

  1. #251

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    Well let's hope this is all it is.

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  2. #252

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    not uncommon on trucks that see mud. Take a good look at the flywheel, friction disc, and pressure plate while you have it apart.

  3. #253

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    Well the fun has begun.
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    Got the transmission out. Pilot bearing is iffy and the throw out bearing seems the same. Clutch looks brand new like the po said. Input shaft didn't have any play and it felt solid. I'm gonna get a new pilot bearing and put it back and see how it goes.

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  4. #254

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    Definitely replace the pilot bearing. Get a sealed bearing and avoid those with metal shielding. The sealed type bearings are more effective at keeping out water and dirt. I've had two shielded bearings fail due to rust. When they bind or seize, it can destroy the input shaft.

  5. #255

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    junker -- if your truck is still disassembled -- check the transmission input shaft bearing (if that's possible..?) My truck at 127,900 miles has a noisy bearing & read other guys had a similar problem at about 125,000 miles...

    Just Passing this info along -- My skill level is changing crankcase oil & filter

  6. #256

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    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    junker -- if your truck is still disassembled -- check the transmission input shaft bearing (if that's possible..?) My truck at 127,900 miles has a noisy bearing & read other guys had a similar problem at about 125,000 miles...

    Just Passing this info along -- My skill level is changing crankcase oil & filter
    It seemed tight no play back and forth. I didn't put a dial on it but very very little movement in any direction. But I just got it back in all I have to do is some electrical and some small bolts here and there and I'll be ready for a trial run.

  7. #257

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    Sounds like good progress

  8. #258

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    Well back to square one. Same deal. Any tips on rebuilding a km-145 or just get the used v5m21?

  9. #259

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    Best of luck getting a good fix -- keep us posted, alright... I have much to learn, my truck makes a noise too depending on clutch in or out... All the clutch stuff was replaced new about two years ago (500 miles ago)... So I am thinking the transmission input shaft bearing is making noise with truck in neutral & clutch out...

  10. #260

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    Just picked up my different transmission from the junkyard.

  11. #261

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    Round 2 is off to a rough start. "NEW" deal for the transfer case front output was not new someone returned a used one to autozone and I ended up with it. But went ahead with reinstall sp far so good. Can anyone tell me what the 4th sensor on a v5m21 is? The other 3 are reverse, 4 hi and 4 low switches this one is on the driver side of transfer case.

  12. #262

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    Ok so I figured out it's called a pulse generator? Wonder if this will affect transfer case operation?

  13. #263

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    I don't have any experience with these trucks in particular in 4wd. Is it a manual shift or electric shift transfer case? I'm assuming electric shift. The pulse generator on other transfer cases typically looks at the speed of the output shafts. When the truck gets going over a certain speed (usually somewhere in the 50mph range) it will automatically disengage the transfer case and return it to 2wd. Another possibility is that it has something to do with the servo motor that actually shifts it in and out of 4wd, but in my experience that is typically located on the servo motor its self.

  14. #264

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    It's still a manual shift like the km-145 was that sensor is the only difference so far.

  15. #265

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    The pulse generator detects rotation of the front drive shaft and sends a signal to the automatic free-wheeling hub indicator control unit to turn on or off the "Wheel Lock" indicator in the gauge cluster. Its basically a sending unit and its function is strictly electrical. If not connected electrically, it won't impact the t-case's mechanical operation.

  16. #266

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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    The pulse generator detects rotation of the front drive shaft and sends a signal to the automatic free-wheeling hub indicator control unit to turn on or off the "Wheel Lock" indicator in the gauge cluster. Its basically a sending unit and its function is strictly electrical. If not connected electrically, it won't impact the t-case's mechanical operation.
    I figured it wasnt going to affect mechanics but thanks for the reply.

  17. #267

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    I just noticed the two shifters in the earlier picture... don't mind me

  18. #268

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    Good news is I drove it off the ramps bad news clutch pedal is super stiff and doesn't start to grab till it's all the way out. Need to adjust the clutch but the sound in the transmission is gone. now.

  19. #269

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    Make sure your clutch cable isn't garbage. I've been caught once or twice thinking the clutch was toast and it turned out to be a binding cable.
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  20. #270

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    Well I found that the cable wasnt seated in the bracket fully so that was an easy fix. But... second gear is harder to find than big foot and the speedometer isnt working now.

  21. #271

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    Well still more fun. Took it ridge running and it got too hot. I think I'm gonna drill a hole in the thermostat to hopefully help with heat issues got a water pump on the way. Also the rear passenger brake is locking up and brake fluid has vanished not sure where its leaking no we spots visible hope it's not seeping into the brake booster. But other than that it's still running ok and me and second gear are friends now.

  22. #272

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    might be worth picking up a "block checker". checks for combustion gasses in the coolant. The crack in my jet valve head was so small that only under certain circumstances would it start to get hot. I drove it for over 10K miles with that cracked head before putting on a new non jet valve head. I also had the same electric fan. It would work in normal driving, but under heavy demand it couldn't keep up.

  23. #273

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    Drilled a hole in the thermostat and took it wheeling never got hot even while creeping in 4lo.

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  24. #274

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    Nice! My truck has always gotten up to about 220deg when started cold. then the thermostat opens and it drops down to 190. If the engine is shut off but still has some heat in it when I start driving again, it just climbs to normal temp. Curious if the hole in your thermostat will help that? Mind watching the gauge next time it warms up? How big a hole did you drill?

  25. #275

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    Hmm, interesting. There are bigger valve thermostats on the market but the bypass hole idea seems logical. +1 on making observations on your engine temps
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