It was backfeeding to the keyed side of the switch once the jumper was hooked up. If you disconnect the power feed to the resistor from the ignition it wont do that, but no harm done. If you don't have one of these, get one. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-I...e+spark+tester
Fastest way to check for a no spark or weak spark. Checking in open air is not the same as checking in a cylinder with compressed air and fuel. The amount of power needed to spark under those conditions is far greater. At 12 bucks you can't afford to not have one!
I think warrantying it is not a bad idea. Electronics generally fail fairly quickly, or last a long time. Just like a rebuilt engine, or a machine tool. My number one rule of diagnosing is always suspect the new parts. I've been burned too many times assuming because something is newer it is still good.