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Thread: Junker turned daily driver.

  1. #26

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    If I do purely around town, i'm only about 17. mixed driving I average about 21. Trying to improve that a bit.

  2. #27

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    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    20180609_163027.jpg
    20180611_213118.jpg

    Threw in a cheap cb radio.

  3. #28

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    Whats your handle?

  4. #29

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    Bahaha I guess I don't really have one. Just got it to use while me and a buddy are out in the woods.

  5. #30

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    20180616_185022.jpg
    20180614_210011_001.jpg

    Added some lights and relocated the antenna.

  6. #31

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    Well I don't have any good news to report. But I do have some bad. I knew it was eventually going to happen the fuel pump is starting to give out. In the morning it does ok but closer I get to work u can tell it's giving up. This evening it is hot out and as soon as I started it u could hear it struggling. And as I was climbing a small hill at about 2500 rpm in third it started to run out of fuel. For what it was the current pump has done it's job for almost 400 miles. I'll give it another day or so to see if it finally goes just hope it doesn't leave me stranded in a bad spot.

  7. #32

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    In honor of the great car crash king you could make your handle "Junkman" While pricier than other options and a bit noisier, my carter P4070 has been bulletproof. I have it mounted on the inner fender just below hood. No problem pulling a head from the tank. Feeds into a holley regulator set to 3psi. I've done 50K miles in the last 2 years. I was commuting through Boston metro area traffic for 1000 miles a week last summer before I sold my house in RI and moved to NH. A solid 2 hours of stop and go out of the 5 hours of driving and it never missed a beat. Ambient temp on the freeway surrounded by other vehicles was easily 100 F on many days. We had a couple of weeks of extreme cold this winter and I had no problems either. one week was -7 to -13 F every day and it always worked flawlessly. I'm pretty sure it was designed for military use and has been around for a loooong time.

  8. #33

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    I'm not sold on the Carter pump. It was pricey. Yep, it's noisy too. But as I mentioned in another post the rubber mounting grommets didn't hold up well but I had another issue with it too. I had a metal strainer fitted before the main fuel filter and one day my engine stalled out. Main filter was fine - but the metal strainer had a heap of brass chaff in it. Only one place it could've come from which was the pump. The pump wasn't going to pull up anything from the tank that could do that kind of damage. Since then I've kept away from the rotary styled pump and will be going for a solid state facet pump when I finally have my truck ready.
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  9. #34

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    Well today was the day. It finally left me stranded but it not fuel pump related ( I don't think it is at least.) Driving home from work I was in normal stop and go traffic in the pouring rain shifted down to 2nd and was going too slow and stalled it. Let it set for 20 mins to try and clear out it started but ran really rough and died. In hooked power to pump and cranked til it hit once but still nothing got a buddy to drag me home. I'll let it set for a few hours to see if it will start. Oh and pulled the distributor cap to check for moisture and it looked good.

  10. #35

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    Went out to try and start it again.......and nothing.

  11. #36

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    Grrr, so what is it not doing (besides starting)?
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  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Grrr, so what is it not doing (besides starting)?
    I think I've got it figured out. I went back out to try it one more time and because I'm impatient and after a few cranks I started feeling around and quickly found the capacitor was hot like It burnt my finger hot.

    20180621_210402.jpg

  13. #38

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    Any tips to what would cause it to get hot and break down? I think my local AutoZone might still have the one I ordered and never picked up.

  14. #39

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    Your 'capacitor' (ballast resistor) has a hairline crack in it somewhere. Once the ceramic insulator is breached, you can light a cigarette of these biatches. Classic symptoms - engine starts, runs for 5-10 mins, then conks out. Won't start again for another 10-15 minutes. Cranks and starts fine, rinse and repeat...
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  15. #40

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    By the way - don't delete/bypass the ballast resistor. It'll roast everything downstream of that circuit.
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  16. #41

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    Well I'm waiting on a new one to come in on Tuesday. I had another that came with the truck but it looked worse than this one but when the new one comes in and if it works I'm gonna get a spare just in case.

  17. #42

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    You've got me thinking I should get a spare to toss in my glove box

  18. #43

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    Well no luck with the ballast resistor. Not getting any spark. It won't hit at all. Didn't have time to break out the ohm meter to test the ignition coil. I'm hoping it's not the ignition control module again.....

  19. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87junker View Post
    Well no luck with the ballast resistor. Not getting any spark. It won't hit at all. Didn't have time to break out the ohm meter to test the ignition coil. I'm hoping it's not the ignition control module again.....
    Just a quick thing to check. The 2 wires from the ICM are easy to swap. The ICM should be labeled B and C for battery and coil(pop off the distributor cap and rotor and you should see). The coil side goes to the coil negative, and the B side should be piggy backed to the power in side of the ballast resistor so that the ICM is seeing a full 12 volts. If it the ICM again, something in the wiring is probably burning them up.
    Giovanni
    Last edited by Giovanni89; 06-27-2018 at 04:22 AM. Reason: typo

  20. #45

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    https://youtu.be/C9QrYTMKSi0

    Swapped out the icm from before that it would run on. Still no spark and now the tach is back to jumping. I've got to have a bad wire(s) somewhere. So now the fun begins chasing wires.

  21. #46

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    The sound In the back ground is the fuel pump.

  22. #47

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    What is your coil like? It might be fragged... If you have a pocket multimeter have a shot at this -

    http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tach...tml#post809838
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  23. #48

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    That was with the key on but not running. The sound in the background is the fuel pump.

  24. #49

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    Try running a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to the 12 volt side of the ballast resistor. That will give power to the ballast resistor, coi,l and icm. If it starts up then you know it's something upstream of the ballast resistor, ignition switch or wiring. If it doesn't start its something downstream of that connection, ICM, coil, ballast resistor, or bad ground.

  25. #50

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    With the key on I'm getting 12v on one side of the ballast resistor and 6.0 On the side going to coil. Added a ground from manifold to firewall and now the tach doesn't randomly bounce. Swapped back to the icm that came in the new distributor and put on a new coil and still it won't start. Any suggestions on getting new wires that run from icm to positive on one side and coil negative on the other?

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