What is this part called that is leaking oil?
IMG_20180521_131105.jpg
Oddly enough the threads aren't leaking, the black plastic is leaking.
What is this part called that is leaking oil?
IMG_20180521_131105.jpg
Oddly enough the threads aren't leaking, the black plastic is leaking.
It's a oil pressure switch (turns on the idiot light in the dash when your oil level is so low the engine doesn't generate oil pressure - which is too late to find out) They crack from impact damage or just fatigue. There should also be a mystery wire floating around there with a female spade terminal on it.
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Just replaced it, showed the above picture to the autozone employee and he immediately knew what it was. Exactly as you described, and so far no more oil leaking. Also, you are right on the female connection, I removed it but it's reconnected now on the new one. Funny thing is I was going to remove the old plastic and replace it with epoxy. I felt like this was an old part that I wasn't ever going to find anywhere. The good thing is this part is used on other engines, which is why this part is still available, is what the autozone employee told me.
Picture of the new oil pressure sensor installed:
IMG_20180521_171757.jpg
Part Number for oil pressure switch:
IMG_20180521_171830.jpg
Last edited by BJH324JH; 05-21-2018 at 06:21 PM.
If you ever want to fuel your paranoia about oil pressure problems, you can replace the sender switch for a pressure sender and add an oil pressure gauge to the dash. Ignorance is bliss bro...
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A cute little gauge, hehe I wonder if they make them. Super newb question:
What does oil pressure have to do with our engines?
Oil pressure is like the heart pumping blood through your veins - if there is low pressure, your circulation isn't good. Oil pressure keeps moving parts lubricated adequately. Loss of oil pressure means less oil is circulating through the engine.
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
Oil pressure is the make or break on every engine. It only takes oil starvation for a short period to damage an engine. Anyone who owns a G63B in these trucks are consciously aware that there are inherent oil circulation issues with the heads and oil galleries in the front of the block (#1 big end and main journals). A gauge will let you know when your oil is starting to break down (small drop in pressure) or your oil pump is struggling, or the condition of the bearings in general. It will let you know if there is a catastrophic engine failure about to take place before your engine seizes up.
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Engine runs great, but now I am worried I could have ruined the engine because of the leaking oil pressure switch. Am I being paranoid?
If you damaged it you would know right away - bad bearings are not shy...Geronimo had that happen with the oil safety pressure switch - it shot out through the terminals on the back of the switch, and sprayed right on the exhaust header. I was climbing a hill at the time - was able to pull off before I lost all oil pressure.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Oh great, I hope everything is okay.
I guess I won't know until I know. Thanks guys for the replies.
Last edited by BJH324JH; 05-23-2018 at 06:11 PM.
You can put a tee fitting in there and keep the light, and have a gauge. That's what I did. The threads in the block are 1/8-28 british pipe thread. I got an adapter to 1/8-27 pipe thread so that I could use easily sourced plumbing pieces. I got an oil sender for 15 psi with american threads (I think for an older GM or Ford) and a sun-pro gauge. I didn't put that in until after i removed the balance shafts, but cruising at 3k rpm I usually see 85-90psi. Never below 25 at idle.
Can you share a picture of your setup, sounds interesting.
I'll snap a picture tomorrow
Awesome, I'll check it out when you upload a picture.
OIL TEE.jpgDon't mind the oily mess. I have a very slow leak from the fitting that goes to the oil pressure gauge. I drive 500 miles a week, so the oil and dirt build up quick.
That's gorgeous. Nice job, I like creative things like this.
An oil pressure gauge is a good idea but mechanical gauges are an invitation to trouble. Imagine if it blew under the dash - it would make a hell of a mess but at least you'd know something was wrong before your engine ate itself. The fittings in the engine bay are constantly being exposed to vibration which is probably the reason why Giovannis' is weeping. Chucking the oil pressure switch for a sender and using an electrical gauge eliminates a bunch of inherent problems - just an opinion
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Mine has actually weeped from the day I installed it. The compression fitting was poorly machined. I have a vibration isolating coil not seen in the photo, and then the line is secured to the body. But yes, there is a risk of line failure. If you isolate the line from vibration, or use a flexible connection such as some braided hose, it should last the life of the vehicle. If you don't isolate the vibration it's only a matter of time. Just like brake and fuel lines. I prefer mechanical gauges because they are cheap and reliable. I've never actually seen a failed mechanical gauge. I have had problems with electrical gauges, but those connections are prone to corrosion from the insane amounts of road salt they dump in the winter here in New England.
At least you used copper lines - why anyone would use the see through plastic ones and think it's ok is beyond me You are right, the electric ones can be dubious when it comes to accuracy but they will give you a ball park reading and the worst that can happen is the sender fails. Road salt isn't something we've ever had to deal with in Australia but I bet it wreaks havoc on anything with wheels. Wonder if brushing on that liquid rubberised paint would work in protecting something like that?
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First thing I did was huck the poly line right in the trash! Road salt is awful stuff, my frame is in good shape, but the toe boards and rockers are pretty bad. I did some shameful patches this spring because I needed to get an inspection. I could tape over the holes in the side of the bed, but the cab had to be metal. Hopefully this year I get it sorted out properly. Then i’ll start oiling the chassis every fall.
Do you use fluid film for your chassis? What oil do you use?
I haven't done it yet. I may go with something petroleum based. The whole underbody of the truck was sprayed with a rubberized undercoating years before I owned it. When it dries out it cracks, lets in moisture and retains it accelerating rot. The Falcon in my avatar has been laid up with rot in the floor pans and torque boxes for the same reason. The area by the tailshaft housing gets a small amount of atf misted on it, and the rubber coating is nice and tacky there. If fluid film will restore the tackiness then that is probably what I will go with. I plan on picking up a can and giving it a try. I really don't want to be dripping something environmentally unfriendly off the truck, but stripping the rubbery tar coating is unrealistic.
Rust sucks sometimes, I'm surprised that we don't have stainless vehicles by now.
If you end up using fluid film, share your experience with us.
Morris chassis wax
Top stuff for Brit cars
Morris chassis wax is a British version of fluid film, or is it the other way around? Both need renewed yearly or sooner depending on usage, and will not dry out and crack.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
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