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Thread: Stumped. It's gotta be something simple.

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  1. #1

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    Stumped. It's gotta be something simple.

    I've had this truck about two weeks now. PO threw a bunch of parts at it to try and make it run. What I found was he scrapped the old carb for a Weber swap replaced coil resistor icm cap rotor. And still couldn't get it to run right. Since I've had it I've removed the factory pump and replaced with an electronic pump And got the timing and plug wires lined out (it was 180 out and plug wires out of order). But still only get 15 mins of run time before it dies. Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2

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    Hi, i would check your carb float is set correctly and that the fuel bowl is filling. I would also check if the pump is continuing to operate or is it getting hot and turning off, or is something else turning it off?
    Good time to check fuel filters and the lines are run correctly
    If theres good fuel supply i would then suspect the coil is over heating

    Its never the coil, except when it is

  3. #3

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    My truck was sitting for a week while on a trip for work to Japan this summer. When I got back it had what felt to be a strange ignition problem that ended up being the float. During normal driving it was totally fine. Extended idling, or sitting with the engine off but hot more than five minutes and it would start flooding. But if it sat for a few hours it would clear out and start normally which is why I was thinking heat related ignition issue. Take off the air filter when it is idling or after you have shut it off and see if you can see any fuel dripping out of the little venturi for the main jet. At idle all of your fuel should be coming out below the throttle plate from the transition holes.
    Giovanni

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87junker View Post
    I've had this truck about two weeks now. PO threw a bunch of parts at it to try and make it run. What I found was he scrapped the old carb for a Weber swap replaced coil resistor icm cap rotor. And still couldn't get it to run right. Since I've had it I've removed the factory pump and replaced with an electronic pump And got the timing and plug wires lined out (it was 180 out and plug wires out of order). But still only get 15 mins of run time before it dies. Any help would be appreciated.
    And he/she got a 'genuine' Weber? If they didn't do their research there's an unfortunate chance they got burned. There's a bunch of fake carbs (read as 'licensed copies') on the market and they are GARBAGE. When it's running does it run OK? Check the coil polarity (this gets a few victims when they swap the coil over). And what are you using for a fuel pump? Webers require fuel flow and not pressure for them to do their funky thing.
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  5. #5

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    Here is a long one. I ordered a basic rebuild kit. Once I got into it I found the float was way out. The needle valve had some wear but not terrible. Both diaphragms were worn out and the air corrector valves were 170 on the primary and 160 on the secondary. Got it all back together mow just to fire it up and see what happens.

  6. #6

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    Still no luck. It ran for 10 mins and died. As soon as it died checked the plugs and still had spark. Pump still had power. The primary side seem to stay wet and it tried to back fire thru the primary side. I'm gonna order a jet kit next.

  7. #7




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    did you replace the power valve? And did you soak this carb in carb cleaner before reassembly and blow out the passages? Jets are not the problem unless they are plugged. Did you check the float to be sure it isn't bad and filling up with fuel?
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

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    OOC what fuel pump are you using? (it might be in another one of your posts but I'm lazy lol). If the pump is overpowering the fuel float needle it'll drown the carby in fuel.
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  9. #9

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    The pump is an Amazon special. It was 2-5 psi 34lph I got a regulator and set it to 3psi. If u let it just set and idles it dies faster but if u run the rpm up around 1500 it will last longer.

  10. #10

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    I replaced the power valve it was for sure bad. Took out the main jets and air correctors. I couldn't get the venturi tubes out. Didn't take the idle jets out either. I set the float to parallel and it seemed solid. No fuel in it and it didn't seem saturated.

  11. #11

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    This morning it started and ran for 15 mins so I shut it off it tried to keep running and puffed smoke thru the carb. It got me getting too much fuel.

  12. #12

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    Look down the carb throat and see if it is dripping gas after you shut it off. It would be dripping from the secondary venturi down onto the throttle plates.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Giovanni89 View Post
    Look down the carb throat and see if it is dripping gas after you shut it off. It would be dripping from the secondary venturi down onto the throttle plates.
    Would that indicate float level is still off?

  14. #14

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    The dripping fuel may be from high idle speed (it's trying to continuously draw fuel, creating enough vac to 'diesel'). Also check your engine tune. The timing sounds like it might be advanced a little as well. The fuel pump sounds a little 'iffy' too for this application. The Weber thrives on high flow/low fuel pressure to run. You haven't been able to get it on the road and fully test it but if it loses power under throttle for a while or runs lean, your fuel flow might not be up to it. If you have doubts about your pump and need an alternative I've got the pump for you -

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-42S-Ele...JY~tH5&vxp=mtr
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  15. #15

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    If it is dripping with the engine off it would indicate a a bad float or needle and seat. Let your electric fuel pump run for a minute or two with the engine off and look down the throat. I had a genuine Weber float that got porous, would start cold and then start bucking and snorting when idling hot. If I was driving down the road Then the demand would overcome the extra fuel
    If it’s dripping while running then yes, a high idle speed screw adjustment will cause it too. That’s why you should look while it’s not running

  16. #16

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    Here is the pump I'm using.
    Attached Images

  17. #17

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    Got the timing set at 7*btdc readjusted the float level. I made it a mile down the road before it died. Only made it to 40 (speed limit) but pulling a little hill was rough third gear heavy in the throttle. Let it cool down for about 20 mins it started right back up the hill back the other way was still rough but it made it back home and didn't try to over run and back fire when I shut it off.

  18. #18

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    Dude, I'm seeing bench tests on those pumps and they aren't exactly stellar... hardly any fuel flow (seem to be relegated to fixing ride on lawn motors and small carbs). Is the chassis of the pump grounded properly/good voltage/close to the tank etc? I still suspect it's a combo of tune and fuel flow.
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  19. #19

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    I wanted to add something to my last post, but cannot figure out how to edit posts.

    That exact pump (Same part number stamped in plastic) is sold under mr gasket brand at autozone, which is where I got mine. Pretty much every autozone in the nation have these on the shelves in the "performance isle".
    NWMDC.jpg

  20. #20

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    If youre not reading more than 3-3 1/2 psi after the regulator, the pressure in the tank shouldnt have much of an effect.

    As for the pressure itself. Check the hose/pipe routing to and from the charcoal canister. One of them goes to the factory mikuni carb. Make sure the previous owner didnt stick a bolt in the hose, or clamp any of them off.

  21. #21

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    Im running that same pump geezer linked. It has done great for me and I dont run a regulator with it due to it having the correct pressure.
    The only issue I had was on a top speed run. It did starve for fuel for a second on 2 occasions but that was only after being wide open throttle for well over a full minute. Lets be real though, most people that have one of these trucks arent doing that. Could be hose routing. Its a great pump for the price and works well.

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by bbrewer2005 View Post
    Im running that same pump geezer linked. It has done great for me and I dont run a regulator with it due to it having the correct pressure.
    The only issue I had was on a top speed run. It did starve for fuel for a second on 2 occasions but that was only after being wide open throttle for well over a full minute. Lets be real though, most people that have one of these trucks arent doing that. Could be hose routing. Its a great pump for the price and works well.
    Sooo... in your not-on-public-road, under strict controlled conditions top speed run, what did your truck reach?
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  23. #23

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    Sounds like I'll be junking that pump. But I did notice today when I went to put some seafoam in the fuel the fuel tank had all kinds of pressure in it.

  24. #24

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    ^ +1 on that. Check that the breather line is able to vent. It will mess with fuel delivery if the tank develops a vacuum in cold weather or pressurises in hot weather. It develops vapour lock and the pump won't be able to overcome it.
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  25. #25

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    https://youtu.be/BFwzRMnja2k
    Here is a video if u skip to about 2 mins left u can see and hear what it's doing.

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