I can't tell from the photo. You can set up a pointer on any other sprocket tooth, and rotate the engine until it lines up on the next sprocket tooth. The cam gear dowel should be right at 12 o clock then. That will simulate the change before going through the hassle. If you move it over one tooth, just be sure to spin it over by hand a few times.
You can take a long prybar and tape a rag around the end. Shove it down the front cover and wedge between the chain at the tensioner and the right side of the front cover. Try and pull up on the chain as you're doing this to get all the slack up top.
Make a witness mark on the chain and cam gear ( I used the silver link ) unbolt the cam sprocket and you should be able to move it over one tooth and bolt it back on. I did this last year. I replaced the head with a new fully built mechanical lifter head that ended up leaking out of the rear freeze plug from poor machining. I sent that back and built a replacement with a new parts from Engine Machine Service out of Ohio. I figured it was worth trying before removing the oil pan, fan, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, and front cover again. Worked for me, just don't let that tensioner pop out. Of course if it's off one tooth you may want to take it all apart and check everything else out to make sure nothing else is gaffed.
Giovanni