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  1. #1

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    New member.

    New owner of an 87 mighty max 2.6 4x4 mt. I have purchased a disaster and I need some help.
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  2. #2

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    Hi and welcome to mightyram. Only the brave, those with vision or those who are crazy meddle with misfortune. So you're in luck as this is the place that you'll feel at home lol. So what is it doing, or not doing (or both)? There are workshop manuals on PDF files and it might be possible but very unlikely that you've encountered a problem that hasn't already been tackled before.
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  3. #3

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    "87junker"..... i can dig it lol

  4. #4

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    Previous owner stated it just quit running one day. He went on a parts replacing spree. Along the way the purchased a Weber replacement. As it sits right now it with pull start and fire up but not for long. He says it's the ecm but with a Weber the ecm shouldn't be a factor right? But in the process he replaced the fuel pump and I believe it's flooding it backfires thru the exhaust. I've only had the truck a few hours. I'm just getting into figuring out what the previous owner had done and what I need to do to fix it.

  5. #5

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    Nope, ECM doesn't have an impact. Did the PO use the right electric fuel pump or one with too higher fuel pressure? Getting fuel flow right is a big step in getting the Weber to work properly.
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  6. #6



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    fuel pressure is an issue if he is using the mechanical pump - the weber only needs 3 -3.5 PSI and the mechanical puts out 7-9 psi. You could try a regulator between the pump and carb, but it will kill the pump with the backpressure unless it is hooked up as a t off the line to the carb, with the outlet of the regulator going to the return line..
    Pennyman1
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  7. #7

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    Negative it has a brand new mechanical pump. He installed it when he started throwing parts at it trying to get it to run. I've already got a electric pump and regulator on the way. I'm struggling to find a wiring diagram for the ignition. It's getting intermittent spark. And the tach jumps while engine is off but key is on. And the dist. Pickup hums. I'm thinking he has is wired up to get 12volts thru the ecm and it's possibly wired incorrectly.

  8. #8

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    This is the part that hums in the distributor when key is on. I'm gonna wire it up to get power to ignition straight for the key switch.
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  9. #9

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    The po had installed a new mechanical pump when he started throwing parts at it trying to get it to run. I already have an electric pump and regulator on the way. I'm struggling to find a diagram on the ignition. I believe its wired up to get 12v thru the ecm. And possibly wired up incorrect. I get intermittent spark and the distributor pick up hums when key is on but engine is off and the teach jumps.

  10. #10

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    I'm going to have a guess and say the ICM (the gadget you've got in your hand there) is either bad or going bad. Check the connectors - they may be dirty or corroded and this could possibly be the explanation for the noise. It's a magnetic halls effect sensor and they shouldn't make any noise (this interference would be going through the whole electrical system and you'd really notice this in the stereo). And an important warning - do not leave the ignition in the 'on' position without the engine running as this will eventually bake an ICM.
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  11. #11

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    Some reason a previous post isn't showing says it's waiting for a moderator. But I believe it's wired up getting 12v thru the ecm. I'm gonna wire it direct from the key switch so I can make sure I'm getting good spark. It's very intermittent when it hits. The ICM hums when the key is on and the tach jumps very erratic while cranking.

  12. #12

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    It is setup using the original fuel pump. I have an electric pump and a regulator already on the way.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by 87junker View Post
    It is setup using the original fuel pump. I have an electric pump and a regulator already on the way.
    You shouldn't need a fuel regulator on an electric pump if you get the correct type of pump. I've recommended using the Carbole 42S electric pump off ebay and the guys who have used it say it does the job nicely (it's the same pump as the Mr Gasket 42S, just re-labelled and a heap cheaper)
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  14. #14

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    I've looked thru the diagrams listed here and can't seem to find the one I need for the ignition. Once I get the fuel situation lined out I need to address my ignition.

  15. #15

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    So I've got it running. PO had the timing way off. It was backfiring threw the carb and exhaust. Now it runs and idles smooth. Still having some sort of electrical problem. It's starts missing and dies. Trying to track down the cause now.

  16. #16

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    Can't seem to make sense of a couple wires.

  17. #17

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    You have a couple of wires where the insulation has been broken through which is never good. Does the ballast resistor get hot (I mean HOT)? Normally indicates a fault.
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    You have a couple of wires where the insulation has been broken through which is never good. Does the ballast resistor get hot (I mean HOT)? Normally indicates a fault.
    It never got hot but now it's no longer in play.

  19. #19

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    Not a good idea to remove the ballast resistor. It will load the crap out of the oil filled coil. BUT if you take the ballast resistor out and use a transformer type electronic ignition coil it'll boost the secondary voltage out of the coil (big fat sparks at the plugs = better fuel burn, improved performance) It will take it's toll on spark plugs and the life of the coil but there's no free rides with any modification.
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