Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: need help with weber!!!

  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-02-2016
    Posts
    11
    Location

    Charlotte,nc
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B

    need help with weber!!!

    i have an 89 dodge ram 50- 2.6, 4x4, 5 speed
    so i installed my weber a few months ago and been reading post on trying to get it to run right. after getting it i installed an electric fuel pump and filter to get rid of the mechanical fuel pump. Question#1 is there anything else i can remove from the engine bay that could give me a little more room to work. i recently made a block off plate for the mechicanical fuel pump and egr valve and put an extra gasket to help seal better, i will try and upload more detailed photos later . for some reason it is leaking out of the block off plate of where the pump use to be.

    little background- so when i did the weber conversion i had trouble building power so with a little tweaking i took it out for a spin and was able to get up to 65 MPH and then boom it cut off and opened the hood smoke was pouring out. couldn't get it to start back up so had to tow it back. later remember what pennyman1 had said in another post, i forgot to plug the 2nd coolant port in the intake before putting the weber pack on. short to say the engine was covered it coolant. i took it back apart plugged the other coolant line and put it back on. also i think i got the wrong weber for the truck bc the idle adjustment screw is on the back side of the carb and is a bitch to get to. i would sent it back to amazon where i got it but since i got coolant everywhere i doubt they will take it back.

    i took it out yesterday and plan on working on it tonight to try and get it to run correctly but yesterday it acted like it didnt want to build power. i think it might be someone with the idle adjustment screw or it could be something else but no entirely sure. Question #2 i think i have everything hooked up on the weber correctly but if would like someone to confirm. i will try and post a video of the truck running tonight. but does anyone know what the timing is suppose to be on the 2.6 ?

  2. #2

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-02-2016
    Posts
    11
    Location

    Charlotte,nc
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    also i dont have a tachometer on the truck, i read somewhere that you need one when trying to dial in the weber in order to get it to run right.

  3. #3

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-02-2016
    Posts
    11
    Location

    Charlotte,nc
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    dumb question does anyone know how to delete post ? I'm trying to delete last pics and put ones that aren't upside down to view pics better.

  4. #4

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    O.k. what you can do is either ask an admin or a mod to delete it, or you can become a donator to the site and edit your own posts (plus you'll get a MightyRam50 window decal sent to you with a $15.00 + Donation). You won't need a tacho to dial in your carb but it will help if you want to try and set your ignition to run a 'dynamic' tune (tuned for on road performance instead of optimal @ idle). Timing should be set @ 5-7 BTDC. Your engine will run the big 38 DGES but with any carb swap, there's compromise on where it builds it's power curve, idle, torque etc. 65mph is respectable when some guys are having issues and can't get 50-55 out of theirs. I've suggested using an 8mm metric thread tap in the coolant port and sealing a grub screw in there with loctite. It's a neat method that can be reversed later if need be. I would like to confirm that you've installed the Weber right but without knowing what fuel pump you're running (if you got 65 out of it then fuel supply sounds solid) and being able to see around your engine, it's only guessing. Please clean your engine dude (I'm not taking a cheap shot at you). A clean engine is easier to work on, exposes oil leak sources and limits risk like bad electrical connections. A can of non caustic oven cleaner, a brush and a pressure cleaner will make short work of it (and cops really don't like doing a road-side and looking at something like this, it'll land you a defect notice)
    Last edited by camoit; 03-19-2018 at 05:29 PM. Reason: added with a $15.00 + Donation

  5. #5



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2011
    Posts
    3,819
    Location

    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V6
    Quote Originally Posted by Ecarmich View Post
    dumb question does anyone know how to delete post ? I'm trying to delete last pics and put ones that aren't upside down to view pics better.

    First lots of pictures were upside down. So you will need to correct that using your phone or what ever software you like.
    Now if you look in the sticky section of this page you will find tips and tricks on how to deal with your attachments.
    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ws-and-Support
    We deleted the post so you can start over. Including the attachments.
    Feel free to play in our sand box to learn the system. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...p/34-Test-Area
    (TIP) Once you have posted a picture it can be used many times over with out needing to upload it again. You can do that by using your attachment manager. It's a button that will show up when using the "advanced" features. You get there by clicking the "go advanced" button under all the reply boxes on each thread.
    Also you get 30 minutes to edit the post after you submit it. I think that's how it's set up. As long as you do not go off the page after submitting it.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Find me on FaceBook
    clicking HERE.

    Or look on YouTube Click Here.
    http://mobilemillwright.com

  6. #6

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-02-2016
    Posts
    11
    Location

    Charlotte,nc
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    thanks for the info, it was my grandpas we just use it as an old farm truck but yeah youre right i do need to clean it up . i already plugged the other coolant port and idk if it matters but i have the 32/36 weber. and i believe my fuel pump and everything is set up correctly i was more asking if i had all the correct lines in the correct places. i was reading a post earlier about having the non ported and ported hooked up to the vacuum advance and was confused on what the difference was between the two.

  7. #7

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-19-2016
    Posts
    253
    Location

    clarksville, arkansas
    Vehicle

    1988 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    (plus you'll get a MightyRam50 window decal sent to you with a $15.00 + Donation)
    ok now i know why i didn't get a decal lol i only did the $10 version maybe next mo. i can get the $15 version i,m on a tight budget wife is the only one working still waiting on my disability i want a decal for my back glass

  8. #8

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Quote Originally Posted by Ecarmich View Post
    thanks for the info, it was my grandpas we just use it as an old farm truck but yeah youre right i do need to clean it up . i already plugged the other coolant port and idk if it matters but i have the 32/36 weber. and i believe my fuel pump and everything is set up correctly i was more asking if i had all the correct lines in the correct places. i was reading a post earlier about having the non ported and ported hooked up to the vacuum advance and was confused on what the difference was between the two.
    Ported and non ported As long as the vacuum advance is connected to a point below the carb throttle plate/base you have it connected right. The Weber generates a stack of manifold vacuum and has a tendency to over-advance as a result. It does take a little trial and error to get the stock distributor to advance 'in the ball park' so to speak (otherwise you need to get it re-curved so it doesn't over advance). If you need to know, always set your distributor with the vac advance connected.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •