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Thread: Poppin the hood and divin in! (1990 build)

  1. #51

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    Check the simple stuff first!
    . make sure the rotor is in the distributor - and that the inside of the cap isn't damp
    . make sure the coil wire is secure, both ends
    . Check to be sure you DID connect all the harnesses (I've had one fall off, before)
    . Might not hurt to check fuses

    Most of all, don't get frustrated - you'll get there
    Last edited by royster; 03-25-2018 at 03:00 PM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  2. #52

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    She cranks but just won't fire up. I pulled the wires off of the distributor just a little bit and you can see that she has spark. I cracked the fuel line just before the intake and she's pushing fuel the lines. I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle body and it made absolutely no difference at all. I double checked the electrical connections and I forgot to reconnect the wire that goes to the air cleaner but that's all I could find. The battery seemed slightly weak so I tried jump starting her with my buddy's Nissan hardbody and that didn't help either. You could tell there was more juice with the jumpers hooked up but she still won't start

  3. #53

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    My first hunch is that the timing is off, but that would at least make some combustion noises.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  4. #54




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    Have you checked the ECM on the right side kick panel - there are capacitors in there that go out that fire the injectors.
    Pennyman1
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  5. #55

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    No, I haven't. So I what I did was pull the intake manifold, cleaned it with oven cleaner with the injectors and fuel rail still on the i take, made replacement gasket, I did the same with the throttle body and valve and then put everything back on the same way I pulled it off and now she won't fire. I pulled the distributor off during all of this too. My buddy told me to try turning the distributor 180 degrees and then reinstall but because that was his pretty was rebuilt his Chevy but I tried and couldn't even get it to bolt on that way so that's not it. I marked the distributor so I could put it back exactly where it was. With everything that I did, is it even possible to throw the timing off?

  6. #56

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    I meant I did the same with the *valve cover* not valves.

  7. #57

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    I also removed the TPS and reinstalled it. Maybe that could have something to do with it? This is only second time I've been this deep in an engine by the way.

  8. #58

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    Also, what am I looking for when I check the ECM?

  9. #59

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    And Royster, she did backfire a couple times when I first tried to fire her up

  10. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLifer1990 View Post
    And Royster, she did backfire a couple times when I first tried to fire her up
    Okay, then I'm going to recommend you assure the timing. Get #1 piston top dead center, making sure it is on the firing cycle. (You can take the oil cap off and watch the valves for #1 open and close).Then check your distributor position and make sure it is at #1 also. Most importantly, be sure to ground the timing harness (photo at http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26994 ). Timing is around 10 degrees before top dead center. (Check the book on that).

    Another thing is to check your vacuum lines.
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  11. #61

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    Another thing I was taught on this forum, is that if the distributor has to be turned to one extreme or the other to get your timing right, you're a tooth off.
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  12. #62

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    Got spark at the plugs? Should at least chuff on starter fluid even if timing is out

  13. #63

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    I got busy and threw in the towel for the day. Tortron, tmorrow morning I'll double check for spark at the plug, I'm not totally convinced she's firing and i didnt have anyone around to help actually check. That and I'm gonna look in to the timing as well, it's possible I'm a tooth off like Royster said. My neighbors a mechanic and said he'd stop by after work tomorrow and give me a hand if I haven't got it figured by then. I'll report back then and hopefully she'll be alive.

  14. #64

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    I believe my neighbor has a timing light as well so that should come in handy

  15. #65

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    Alright fellas, I got a little sidetracked recently but I'm back under the hood. I'm convinced that my timing is the issue. I got the number one piston to TRY on the comp stroke and made sure that my rotor was aligned with the correct spark plug and I let her rip. I almost has her started yesterday (I could actually he some combustion this go round) but she just wouldn't do it. I've been messing with her a little bit more today but I'm not having any luck and started to get frustrated to i had to walk away for a little while. Any suggestions? I've heard something about having to ground the SCI to put it into timing mode, does anyone have any info on that or at least know if that's true?

  16. #66

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    That is true but if its not firing at all that wont help. Dont take this the wrong way ive done it myself are you sure that your distributor is correct and the spark plug wires are correct? Anyway on the passenger side inner wheel well there is a little plug that you stick an aligator clip to and ground it out to set the timing.

  17. #67

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    The way I see it, anyone that's chiming in is trying to help so I don't take anything personal. But, I'm pretty damn sure, I looked up the firing order several times and double and triple checked the wires. It sounded like she was just in the brink of starting yesterday, I could hear combustion this time. I have not however, ground the electrical connection. (I was wondering what that thing was the other and thought to myself " what the hell did I disconnect from that thing?!".

  18. #68

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    I don't want to suggest throwing parts at the truck, but perhaps the fuel filter is old. Have a look at it - it's tucked inside the frame at the driver's door. If it looks old, replace it. The "wheeler dealer" you bought the truck from likely allowed it to sit, and recent activity may have dislodged funkus gunkus in the fuel tank.

    But do stay on the timing. The ground wire isn't going to do any good until you get it running. Turn the crank back to #1 TDC, and look at the crank pulley mark. Put it at 10 degree BTDC, then look closely at the rotor, in the distributor cap - make sure it's in a position to get spark. I doubt the timing belt skipped a tooth, but that is possible. Take the top plastic piece off the timing belt cover, and check to see what condition the belt is in. Also look to see that the timing mark on the cam cog lines up with the mark on the head (NOT the top of the head). Those will give you some indication of how well the timing is set up.

    scan0038.jpg
    Click image to enlarge

    In regards to the ECU going bad - it has been mentioned that the cab will start to smelly "fishy". The reason is that the capacitors are filled with whale oil (so I read) and if they start to leak, well, you'd smell it. For now, we'll assume the ECU is fine.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  19. #69

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    If the trucks been sitting make sure your getting enough fuel through the lines as well i have a b2200 i had to soak carb cleaner in and run hangers in the hardlines and ultimately pull the sending unit because it was so clogged with bad gas.

  20. #70

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    The truck has just under a half tank of premium that I put in it a couple weeks ago (just before a parked it and started working on it). So what should the timing mark on the cam cog be lined up with when number 1 is at TDC? If its out of whack, do i make the adjustment by manually cranking the engine like I've been doing to achieve TDC? I've been totally unfamiliar with timing up until about 2 days ago and today was the first I've heard about the cam cog timing mark and grounding the ECU plug after getting it to start. Is there anything else I might be missing? And thanks again, guys!

  21. #71

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    My concern is the truck sitting before you got it, particularly with ethynol's propensity to gel up after a short while.

    Have you tried moving the distributor position ? That is how the timing is adjusted. As for the cam alignment, click on the image below, and you'll see where I highlighted the "bump" on the head casting, and the mark on the cam gear. Those should be aligned when you're at TDC.

    scan0038.jpg

    Loosen the distributor, just enough that it can pivot. Pivot it all the way to the left, then all the way to the right. From that "feel", set it in the center of those two extremes, and tighten the hold-down bolt. That should get you spark enough to start it. If you can get it started, loosen that hold-down bolt and pivot the distributor until the engine is running best. The engine should be warmed up before using the ground wire process to time it with the timing light.

    If the engine is really reluctant to start, you may have the distributor off by one tooth, and might have to re-position it by taking it out and setting it back in one tooth forward or backward. I believe the rotor turns clockwise.

    Take the time to read these posts regarding the timing adjustment wire
    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26994
    Last edited by royster; 03-30-2018 at 05:21 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  22. #72

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    I set it back to TDC (about 10 degrees before) and the cam gear lined up perfectly on its mark, I had to retard the rotor just a bit to get it where I wanted it and I noticed there was a faded mark mark that a previous owner had made so that's what I went with and she's trying to start. I was SOLO close just a minute ago. The battery started to sound weak so I have the charger in it now. I think I should have it by the end of the day

  23. #73

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    SO close** not solo close haha. But she's close!

  24. #74

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    SHE LIIIVES!!! Man, I'm excited! Hahaha

  25. #75

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    Nice work! Always a sense of achievement when you finally master the beast.
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