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Thread: And so it begins...

  1. #126

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    88 starion/conquest stock gearbox had the aluminium 'girdle' basepan..... like a thin (~1/4 inch) tuff pan

    starion 2.6 and non-us 2.0 r both wide block pattern. Won't bolt-on to DSM motor, needs 'adapating'
    box is longer than truck 5spd also

  2. #127

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    did you happen to see the open/ torn vacuum line right behind the distributor directly under the carb.

  3. #128




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    I have the starquest girdle pan coming from OemMitsubishiParts - it is actually still available from Mitsubishi for 60 plus shipping - I will have them tomorrow... it is also a Pajero km132 transmission pan.
    Pennyman1
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  4. #129

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    What would cause the required maintenance light to come on?

    These things are pretty simple, alternator is charging, coolant's there and in an acceptable temp range, oil is there and pressure I presume to be acceptable because I don't see an idiot light for oil pressure. Beyond that other than lights.... who cares? What could trip the light?

  5. #130

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    Quote Originally Posted by bitrootvz View Post
    did you happen to see the open/ torn vacuum line right behind the distributor directly under the carb.
    I don't recall what that went to off the top of my head, but it wasn't connected to the intake manifold and the distributor on the engine is the wrong one, doesn't have the vac advance.

  6. #131




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    Mileage trips the maintenance light - there is a switch under the speedo you access through a little access panel - remove it and flip the switch.
    Pennyman1
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  7. #132

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    Thanks!

  8. #133

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    Mileage trips the maintenance light - there is a switch under the speedo you access through a little access panel - remove it and flip the switch.

    Never did find it.. but small update, got the electric fan to work. The thermo switch setup was garbage, I rigged it for now, just straight wired to the battery though a connect routed into the cab, ground to battery ground and positive in the cab to a male spade connector, to a female to the battery's positive.. so If I know I'm going to be sitting in traffic for a long time or a drive through I no longer have to worry about over heating I just connect them and wala fan... (it is fused with a 15amp inline fuse btw). Then once on the move again just disconnect. Yeah it's ghetto, but, it works for now. Eventually i'll setup a toggle switch on the dash or a proper themo switch setup. Learned a little more about the distributor setup, going to test the one I got soon and if it works then I just have to figure out how to connect the trigger wire to the coil in the truck and swap them out, connect a vac line and then i'll have ignition advance again which will probably help it out a ton!

    Still been getting 20mpg so, not complaining really. Due to having to make a panic stop not long ago though one of the front brake lines has collapsed internally or something as only one caliper up front is working (passenger side) so that's, not awesome... Got I have gotten really good at rev matching the down shifts and slowing early, hardly ever have to use the brakes now LOL.

  9. #134

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    Is there a fuse on the blinker circuit? I hit a dead rotten tree that had fallen in the road at 4am. Couldn't find any damage to the truck but the blinkers stopped working. None of them work, replaced the flasher, nope that wasn't it but now it is supposedly compatible with LED lights...yay


    ideas?

  10. #135



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    I would look at the blinker switch plug or something along that line. But if you have all LED lights there are many flashers that say they work with LEDs but I have found they don't The only one I have found that works is made by Peterson. I'm using the 500 series. But you can try the small one with the wire you ground, but I have not had any luck with it.
    http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=5&fId=23
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  11. #136


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    I run 2 of these, One for the Turn and one for the Hazard's
    https://www.grote.com/products/44891...asher-flasher/

  12. #137

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    I do not have LED lights.

    I guess i'll be getting a test light and multi-meter out today and try to chase down the problem. Tired of putting miles on the Talon just driving back and forth to work.

  13. #138

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    So if #7 (TURN) is the turn signal fuse in the dash... Fuse is good, but has no power. Does anyone know the color code for the wires that would feed the circuit? And where it draws power from?
    Last edited by RipperXX; 08-11-2018 at 09:15 AM.

  14. #139

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    Hah! I slapped the fuse area of the dash a couple times and everything started working again....

  15. #140

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    Dirty fuse terminals. They never pop so they get crusty from eating dirt for decades.
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  16. #141

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    Got some time today so I did a little cleaning this morning, going to do some more tomorrow.



    Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the coil to the distributor? There's a rats nets on that thing and I don't know what's what. I'd like to see if I can get the correct distributor on this thing and hook up the vac advance.

  17. #142

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    Mileage trips the maintenance light - there is a switch under the speedo you access through a little access panel - remove it and flip the switch.
    Where is this access panel under the speedo? I have yet to notice it or a switch under it.

  18. #143

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    It's on the right-hand side, mirroring the emergency blinker switch. It looks like a cap for a switch hole. Pry it off, and you'll see a small switch inside.
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  19. #144

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    dont know if it has been mentioned but a non caustic oven cleaner works wonders in the engine bay.

  20. #145

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    Quote Originally Posted by cookieking View Post
    dont know if it has been mentioned but a non caustic oven cleaner works wonders in the engine bay.
    Hmmm, I wonder where I've heard that before...

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post59899

    If only I knew this one sooner - would've saved me a whole lot of time and mess
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  21. #146

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    Quote Originally Posted by royster View Post
    It's on the right-hand side, mirroring the emergency blinker switch. It looks like a cap for a switch hole. Pry it off, and you'll see a small switch inside.
    Did you find it??
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  22. #147

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Hmmm, I wonder where I've heard that before...

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post59899

    If only I knew this one sooner - would've saved me a whole lot of time and mess

    lol nice, Thats the down side to being so new I guess. i'm a little out of touch with whats going on

  23. #148

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    Quote Originally Posted by cookieking View Post
    lol nice, Thats the down side to being so new I guess. i'm a little out of touch with whats going on
    Did someone tell you this tip or did you discover it yourself?

    There are non believers on this cleaning tip. Works fantastic on filthy engine bays but for some reason not so good to scrub out transmission bell housings (something to do with the type of oil maybe?) It's pretty good on wheels and tyres are well but you have to do one at a time and move quickly as the oven cleaner can dull some finishes. Use a paint brush to work it in so you don't scratch anything - spraying it on tyre walls and then scrubbing and pressure cleaning them gets all the road grime off. Applying tyre shine afterwards and rubbing it in by hand gets the car show look every time
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  24. #149

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Did someone tell you this tip or did you discover it yourself?

    There are non believers on this cleaning tip. Works fantastic on filthy engine bays but for some reason not so good to scrub out transmission bell housings (something to do with the type of oil maybe?) It's pretty good on wheels and tyres are well but you have to do one at a time and move quickly as the oven cleaner can dull some finishes. Use a paint brush to work it in so you don't scratch anything - spraying it on tyre walls and then scrubbing and pressure cleaning them gets all the road grime off. Applying tyre shine afterwards and rubbing it in by hand gets the car show look every time

    Learned it in a motorcycle forum. Saw some horror stories where people used the heavy duty stuff on some aluminum parts and pitted them up or stripped the anodizing off.

    I also use pin sol to soak my carbs and clean them out. It's pretty crazy some of the stuff we use every day that can destroy that kind of gunk.

    And pledge works wonders on almost all interior . I like the orange kind cause I like the smell. If you ever get that weird grimy build up on your mouse wipe it down with pledge. O that same build up on your steering wheel and turn signal levers.

  25. #150

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    Yeah you don't wanna use anything remotely caustic on a car or bike. The old school guys who didn't like pretty anodised parts would soak them in a caustic solution to dissolve the coloured coating. Non caustic oven cleaner works way better than heavy duty truck wash and is hell cheaper too. I got jack of buying 4 cans of degreaser to clean up an engine bay and took a risk of buying 2 cans of oven cleaner not knowing how it was going to pan out. It blitzed the job and I only needed one can - with the added bonus of not leaving a massive mess on my drive way (and even used it to clean my hands afterwards without leaving them stinking like kerosene)
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