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Thread: And so it begins...

  1. #51

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    (never mind over looked the cable on RockAuto. Still... I find it hard to believe a steel braided cable can stretch to such a point.. and I want to see if that spring on the cable in the rear drum is actually fully compressed or just looks like it. If it is... I don't see how the cable is the problem.

  2. #52

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    They will be listed. Try a different year. There's no difference in the 2nd gen ones (for 2wd at least)

  3. #53

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    Yeah the cables do stretch, I even have a cable pre stretcher for smaller ones. Maybe they have been fully tightened up because the star adjusters were not working. You could clean the springs etc up with brake cleaner. Back the cables right off, adjust the shoes correctly, then re adjust the cables.


    The front cable can also stretch

  4. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by tortron View Post
    Yeah the cables do stretch, I even have a cable pre stretcher for smaller ones. Maybe they have been fully tightened up because the star adjusters were not working. You could clean the springs etc up with brake cleaner. Back the cables right off, adjust the shoes correctly, then re adjust the cables.


    The front cable can also stretch
    I'll give that a try before ordering them. (Not sure why I didn't think of that)...probably because this old tech is new to me! Also front cables??? What? I thought they front were just regular hydraulic disk brakes....now I'm curious wth?

  5. #55

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    Wait... no that wont work...I already adjusted the brakes to the point any further and the drum wont go on. When I pull the parking brake cable the shoes don't move. I'll have to come up with some sort of way to take slack out of the cable or order new ones. Based on the bed length apparently.

  6. #56

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    There is a third, front, cable from the handbrake to the 2 rears

    It does sound like you will need new cables. Does the pivot at the front move freely when you pull the lever? Probably they are stretched right out and the slack isn't being taken up before the lever tops out?

  7. #57

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    You should set the brake shoes with the drums on too

  8. #58

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    *install drums first. The brakes are self adjusting. More than likely the cables are completely stretched. You may be able to put a spacer or shim in there somewhere to take up the slack - take a good look at the cable layout and you will be able to find a safe spot to shim it that won't cause the cable to bind or drop out.

  9. #59

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    I ordered the front cable, and both rear cables. Bed is 72" / 105" wheel base so I ordered those cables. As well as new shoes and pads for the front and new rear wheel cylinders, since they're cheap enough I don't see much value in rebuilding them as cheap as they were. I also got to poking around under the hood more, got some questions as well as showing some retarded shit.

    Like this...What kind of fuses go here? Because this is just dumb.


    What's the blue plug(s) for? What circuit? They wouldn't reach without messing with stuff so I figured I'd ask before trying to connect an unknown wire.


    What's this big plug ugh supposed to go too?


    What the hell is this? Has nipples for vac lines that are no longer hooked up, but also has an electrical plug and wiring going in the bottom, was unsure if that needed to still be hooked up for anything so I didn't remove it.



    Why does a carburetor need electricity? Electric choke? (remember I have never worked with carbs)


    Why the hell is there an O2 sensor on a carbed engine?????


    None of this emissions stuff (charcoal canister etc) was hooked up so... bye I keep all those little connectors and stuff though, they come in handy at times!

  10. #60

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    Ah so many questions. That metal box with the vacuum lines is the remanance of the carb control module for the factory Mikuni carb - take it out completely. There are a bunch of electrical connections that hook up to it - ignore them. Those green wires in the fuse block? Those are factory fusible links - don't mess with them unless they are dodgy. The O2 sensor was also for the carb control - use it for an A/F meter

  11. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Ah so many questions. That metal box with the vacuum lines is the remanance of the carb control module for the factory Mikuni carb - take it out completely. There are a bunch of electrical connections that hook up to it - ignore them. Those green wires in the fuse block? Those are factory fusible links - don't mess with them unless they are dodgy. The O2 sensor was also for the carb control - use it for an A/F meter
    Factory fusible links? Also thanks!

  12. #62

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    Yea bits of wire that burn out like a fuse.
    Could replace them with breakers if you were real keen

  13. #63

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    Any idea what this I presume relay is that was stuffed inside the bottom of that silver vac box is for?


    Looks better without that junk.


    Also...what the hell... are you serious? I was wondering why I couldn't find a coolant temp switch for the fan then I saw this... really??

  14. #64

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    To be clear, I'm asking about that relay because it's still plugged into the wiring harness.

  15. #65

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    Best...thermoswitch...install...EVER . Should've added a warning about deleting the charcoal cannister. It is best to leave it in place as the fuel tank vapours can expand and really need somewhere safe to go, plus it prevents the tank from vapour locking (both from vacuum and expansion). The end results can be unpredictable - truck just dies from sudden fuel starvation, blow a hose or filter from over pressurisation or wreck the carb depending on how hot the weather is, venting gas vapours and EXPLODING which could be a bit inconvenient...

  16. #66

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    I'm aware, but none of it was hooked up anyway so trash it goes. Tank is just vented to atmosphere.

    Now I have to figure out what's going on with the rear suspension. The passenger side is about 1 1/8" lower than the drivers side and the leaf springs look like they're more compressed. I'm wondering if it has a cracked leaf spring? Or some idiot put a shorter shock on that side? That's about all that could cause it right?

  17. #67

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    Also any idea where to source a thermoswitch that will go where that bolt is in the water neck near the carb? There's what looks like a 10mm bolt there for a plug? Seems like s perfect spot. And a hell of a lot better than just shoving one between fins in the radiator!

  18. #68

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    You can use a thermo sender switch that is temperature range sensitive, or you can use an adapter and install a fan sender switch in the middle of the bottom radiator hose (requires cutting a small section out of the hose and fitting a joiner. For the fan to work correctly it needs to be tripped off the lowest coolant temperature (either from the bottom tank or from an adapter in the return hose) so it's not running continuously. It will affect the thermostat operation and beat on the battery and alternator if not installed correctly.

  19. #69

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    And the leaf springs - could be worn out bushes, the springs could be tired on that side or something more worrying (like chassis damage). If there's a bung in the bottom tank and it's not the defunct trans cooler barbs or the drain plug, could actually be for a sender switch. It will need to be a switch with a 2 pin connection for power and ground.

  20. #70

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    I don't think there's chassis damage. Half the brake parts came today. Shoes, pads and brake cylinders. Just waiting on the cables now.

  21. #71

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    I find myself keeping an eye open for a 4G63 DOHC cylinder head...anyone know if it matters if it's from a 6 bolt or 7 bolt engine? I know there's a difference in the intake ports and head bolt sizes. I think the 7 bolt heads have to have their head bolt passages bored out 1mm to fit on a 6bolt block. No idea about on a G63B block. And Project Zero G seems fairly dead these days, waiting on an account to be approved.

  22. #72

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    You are right about the different head bolts. And there's a difference with the main oil return galleries. The story goes that any 4G6X head will bolt to any 4G6X block, as long as they're the same generation it works. If I have got this right - 1G is 6 bolt, 2G is 7 bolt, 3G is transverse head flow. You can mount the twin cam head to the G63B block but there are advantages to using the whole engine. Better oil dispersion, no mucking around with pistons (remember the twin cam pistons have cut outs for the valves) but the drawbacks are having to modify most of the cooling ancillaries (water pump outlet, external coolant pipe, heater connection, thermostat placement...). Hell I'd like to go twin cam NA as well (stand alone ignition, hand made intake manifold with 38/39mm bike carbies and a beast set of stainless headers) and I would want to use my original block just to 'keep it real', but there's a lot of assing around there.

  23. #73

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    Well, IF I do go that route anytime soon (for now we're still in fix it mode) it will be a budget build with the goal of throwing a 14b turbo on it. But we will shelve that for now. Any idea where I can easily find replacement leaf springs as I'm betting that's going to be the cause of the sagging rear passenger corner?

  24. #74




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    airbagit.com / chassis tech has 3" lowering leaf springs for our trucks, or hit the JYs
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  25. #75

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    airbagit.com / chassis tech has 3" lowering leaf springs for our trucks, or hit the JYs

    Saw lowering spindels and the like but nothing else. Not really interested in needing a compressor on board either?

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