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Thread: And so it begins...

  1. #101

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    Quote Originally Posted by tortron View Post
    you can refit the cables. i have used a bit of pipe slipped over the end to compress the cage, then pull out

    * obviously only a trick for if they are still good
    I had thought of that, but I didn't have anything on hand that was the right size that would fit in there, and didn't really care, so trash can they go!

    The list (why is there no strike through option!!)


    DONE!

    Headlights
    Adjust Clutch Cable
    Parking brake
    Change oil/filter since who knows how old it is.
    Battery hold down
    Replace thermostat with correct temp spec unit


    NEEDS TO BE DONE

    Oil leak from distributor
    Fuel hose routing
    Verify there are no vacuum leaks
    Replace garbage wiring
    Replace windshield wipers
    Get tag lights working
    Re-jet carburetor possibly replace with Webber
    Inspect and replace timing belt and components if need be. As well as balance shaft belt.
    Remove any unused connections, wires and hoses.
    Replace passenger side door
    Repair or replace bench seat.
    Replace flywheel (missing teeth)
    Replace seatbelts since I'm unsure if the recall has been performed.
    Replace tail gate
    Replace cracked windshield
    Repair small spot in the bed/tray near the tail gate where it's damaged / hole
    Replace rear passenger side tail light housing (got a hole in it)
    Rebuild transmission
    Replace shocks
    Paint it myself

    Trying to figure out what the next priority is. Flywheel? (pretty sure the one on the other engine has all it's teeth, replace the seal for the distributor? Radiator fan? Wipers are easy to cross off.. lets do that next....then the fan.
    Last edited by RipperXX; 03-18-2018 at 07:21 AM.

  2. #102

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    I think I used a jack handle last time.
    might want to do all the engine timing stuff and distributor seal when you have the engine out for the flywheel. Then while it's out, paint it, tidy the engine bay and do your wiring and lines.....



    And the list keeps growing

  3. #103

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    I was hoping I could just drop the transmission to swap them...Wasn't planning on pulling the engine out until I had everything to swap the cylinder heads later on...assuming I don't need to replace the timing belt anytime soon. I think I will check the compression on the engine soon though, just out of curiosity.

  4. #104

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    Did the 88 model G63B engines not use a vacuum advance on the distributor? In the manual i'm looking t it shows it... but mine doesn't appear to have a vacuum advance. So I presume mechanical?

  5. #105

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    huh? I know that trucks running OBD I with EFI don't have a vac advance as the ECU handles all of that. So did someone swap a non vac distributor onto your carbied 2.0? And it must be a bit of a slug without it...
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  6. #106

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    What? Were all 2.0L G63B 1988 trucks EFI?

  7. #107



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    no 2.0 trucks in 88 were fuel injected - none of the trucks were until 1990 for the 4 cylinders.
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  8. #108

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    I should've clarified that. The 2.0 G63B/4G63 SOHC engines in the trucks are all carbied engines. The 2.4 4G64 EFI engines had an all mech distributor but funnily enough it will fit the 2.0. It might have taken some wiring mods to get it to hook up to the coil
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  9. #109

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    Like that rats nest of wiring? Well poo, so I need a vac advance distributor? Which means I need to figure out the appropriate source for a vac line and find one. I see parts stores till have them, for like $170... I guess I'll look again and make sure I'm not just blind and missing it, but I'm 99.9% sure it's not there. So the idiot put a 2 barrel carb for a Ford 302 on it, and the wrong distributor from a 2.4L...that explains a few things.

  10. #110

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    If you get into a pinch, I have a distributor off an '89 2.0. I'll see if the vacuum advance works. And if you look around the intake manifold, I think there's a capped off vacuum nipple...I could be wrong, 2.0's aren't my specialty, but it won't hurt to look.
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  11. #111

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    Quote Originally Posted by RipperXX View Post
    Like that rats nest of wiring? Well poo, so I need a vac advance distributor? Which means I need to figure out the appropriate source for a vac line and find one. I see parts stores till have them, for like $170... I guess I'll look again and make sure I'm not just blind and missing it, but I'm 99.9% sure it's not there. So the idiot put a 2 barrel carb for a Ford 302 on it, and the wrong distributor from a 2.4L...that explains a few things.
    Ah that makes some sense now. The PO probably couldn't figure out how to hook the vac advance up off the Ford carb and swapped the distributor as a result (or just needed a working distributor and thought near enough is good enough). There's only one vacuum barb on the 302 carb so I don't know why it was so hard to get it to work. It definitely has the CFM to do the job but not sure about the jetting.
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  12. #112

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    So that other engine had this one on it, but I'm not sure if it's any good. Is there a way to test them?





    So obviously it has the vacuum advance. Where as the one on the truck doesn't.



    So how do I check the one from the other engine with the vac advance without swapping them? Because I don't want to swap them and then it not work because it's been dead for the last 5 years or something.

  13. #113

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    Easy - jam a hose on the vac servo and inhale. But before doing so give the distributors' innards a liberal shot o' WD40 to free up the advance plate. If it's not perforated and the inside advance plate moves, you're rocking. There is a way to test the halls effect sensors in it but this one is a little unusual as it has 2 banks of them. Think all you need to do is hook up a multimeter to the wires and turn it by hand. The resistance values should go up and down (if I recall correctly that is) Man, that dizzy is crusty - where did you find it?
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  14. #114

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    It was on the other engine I bought with the truck.

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    I should've clarified that. The 2.0 G63B/4G63 SOHC engines in the trucks are all carbied engines. The 2.4 4G64 EFI engines had an all mech distributor but funnily enough it will fit the 2.0. It might have taken some wiring mods to get it to hook up to the coil
    How is it supposed to hook up to the coil, it's only two wires. I thought I'd wire it up, toss a plug wire and plug on it and see if spinning it by hand would get it to fire to see if it's good before I pull the other one and it's rats nest of wiring.

  16. #116

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Easy - jam a hose on the vac servo and inhale. But before doing so give the distributors' innards a liberal shot o' WD40 to free up the advance plate. If it's not perforated and the inside advance plate moves, you're rocking. There is a way to test the halls effect sensors in it but this one is a little unusual as it has 2 banks of them. Think all you need to do is hook up a multimeter to the wires and turn it by hand. The resistance values should go up and down (if I recall correctly that is) Man, that dizzy is crusty - where did you find it?
    I tried checking it with a multimeter checking ohms, D.C. vols and mAh got nothing. My father suggested putting a AA battery in line with it (ugh...okay) tried it, nothing...but a lower DC voltage value than the straight battery .8v

  17. #117

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    greetings from mexico, in my truck the distribuitor has a black wire that are 12v switch and a blue wire that is the signal tach that goes to the coil

  18. #118

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    Quote Originally Posted by gasper601 View Post
    greetings from mexico, in my truck the distribuitor has a black wire that are 12v switch and a blue wire that is the signal tach that goes to the coil
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  19. #119

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    I think I'm just going to drive this thing and not spend any more on it for now. Next year, I'm thinking I'll buy a 4G63, ECU and harness off e-bay. Assuming the 4G63 really just bolts right up without swapping out anything that's to easy.

    Anyone know if I have to change flywheels or anything?

  20. #120

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    Find a 6 bolt engine for the transplant. You will need the truck clutch and pressure plate to get it to work. And the block will bolt straight up - but then you have to convert all the ancillary stuff. The coolant outlet is on the back of the head so it needs to be reconfigured, the intake faces the wrong way (there is a solution to this without cutting and welding I believe) and then there's the exhaust manifold to contend with. The CAS for the ignition can be either on the front or back of the head depending on the donor engine. If it's the rear it will be a tight squeeze or require beating on your firewall to make clearance for it. It's been done a gazillion times and there's lots of info and pics to guide you through the swap. I'd like to go non turbo if and when I ever get the chance to bump my build level up. Quad intake baby YEEAAAHHHH
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  21. #121

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    What about the problem of sourcing a clutch that will hold the power? I assume the factory clutch wont hold on even a bone stock 6bolt 14b turbo engine at stock power output?

  22. #122

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    This is when it becomes an issue. Yes you can get a HD pressure plate and it'll hold boost all day long, but the clutch cable set up is the weak link. The adjuster through the firewall flexes from standard and has been known to tear sheet metal in this location. And if it wasn't for the fact you're in the US there would've been a simple solution - use the transmission from a 2.0 4G63T Starion turbo (Conquest/Starquest) and convert it all over to hydraulic. The 2.6 has a different bolt pattern and it's not compatible but I did see one guy do some serious surgery to get a hydraulic clutch in his truck. Bear in mind too that if you're planning on visiting 250+ HP land, the transmission cases flex and this can cause gear failures. Installing a Tuff-Pan on the transmission will keep the case rigid and will ensure the otherwise stock transmission will take 500 HP.
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  23. #123

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    Firewall flex is as easy as gussets. Did the same in my 48commer when it tore through

  24. #124



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    There is an alternative to the Tuff pan, and it is a factory part. Details to come when they arrive...
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  25. #125


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    Had a friend looking to purchase the Tuff Pan, Are they still available? I have one on the Ram,great part.

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