Also on the way home I noticed a Mitsubishi Mighty Max that's been sitting for about a year. Supposedly has a cracked cyl head but didn't look to bad. Asked the guy how much he wanted for it, said he would have to think about it but he was fine with selling it as it's not doing him any good sitting there. If he will let it go cheap, oh boy would it be funny if I could just jerk the head off this other engine that I got with my truck slap it on and it be derivable too.
Some jobs that look like they're in the 'too hard' basket can be a cake walk opportunity for someone else. A running truck for next to no outlay except for maybe a weekend and some gaskets? I'd be up for that
Someone on one of the DSM forums was telling me the engine I got in the bed of the truck is actually the G54? (off to do research...may actually walk up to the shop and look at the engine block for the code. But It was BARELY still visible on the G63B.
g54b
g54b
...it's a 4G63 (G63B) engine. Carb paired port intake manifold + plastic timing cover is the give away. And you can be sure it's a RWD mounted engine by the pulleys, the water pump and the fact the thermostat housing is located at the timing belt end of the engine.
*it's also the updated engine by the design of the intake manifold.
Did a bit of research last night and also noted the 4G54/G54B uses a timing chain, not a belt. So yeah definately the G63B/sohc 4G63. My father's going to give me an old engine stand, I think I'll crack her open and see what shape it's in this summer. Having two engines assuming theirs nothing wrong with this one will be neat for sure.
https://i.imgur.com/LXhw61S.jpg
At work on my cell so I can't resize and post the pictures but here's a link to the hold down, just finished and installed it. Now I just have to change the oil and filter before my son's soccer practice when I get home.
The toughest battery clamp I've ever seen. You can barrel roll that sucker all day and I can guarantee it's not going anywhere. Nice work
Thanks!Originally Posted by geezer101
The toughest battery clamp I've ever seen. You can barrel roll that sucker all day and I can guarantee it's not going anywhere. Nice work
Now that I'm home I'll post the resized pic for the lazy people, because, clicking is hard.
Also took a moment after changing the oil to wipe a few things down with a gasoline soaked rag.
Any idea where I could order a replacement hood proper clip and the grommet thing that holds it in at the bottom?
I just realized since the the flywheel on the engine in the truck is missing teeth somewhere, (since it happens every once in a while I have to push the truck and pop the clutch to get it to turn past the damged area) I can probably just take the flywheel and or maybe clutch if its in better condition off the G63B I got with the truck and toss them on the one in the truck! (assuming it's got all it's teeth). Hopefully, because that would be another practically free repair! ( I love those)
A cleaning tip - use *non caustic oven cleaner. It's cleaner to work with, makes short work of engine bay gunk, is usually cheaper than spray on degreaser and doesn't leave an EPA coloured rainbow running down your driveway. One can is enough to do an engine bay. Spray it on, break it up with a brush and hose it off (better if you have a pressure cleaner). I would go through a couple of cans of degreaser to get similar results. Safe enough to spray on your hands without ruining them (or them stinking like kerosene afterwards - and it's awesome for cleaning your hands with after working on a dirty engine)
*Can't stress this point enough - make sure it's non caustic oven cleaner. The caustic based stuff will destroy all in it's path - paint, plastic, wiring, rubber, alloy... the non caustic stuff is safe enough to spray straight on your hands as I mentioned earlier.
Geezer - I took the liberty of posting this on Why Didn't I Think Of That ?
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post59901
As always, your expertise is appreciated.
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
Thanks Roy. It's one of those things I randomly post up around the site. And as with all advice, you gotta take it with a pinch of salt (and a healthy tablespoon of skepticism). I could've saved myself a ton of effort if I knew about the oven cleaner trick, the diesel engine flush looked like a sure fire way to blow the bottom end of an engine to pieces in 2 minutes but it works brilliantly, and my engine tuning tip - well, I discovered this after a frustrating experience with a car I had a while ago. I'm waiting to get some feedback on that tip but from what I gained out of it was literally like finding out you've been driving with a dragging hand brake...
Anyone know where I can find the clip and grommet for the hood prop? Also, anyone know what the RWD, 5 speed 4G...G63B trucks weighed?
4,045 lbs/1,835 kgs. Allegedly from my online search. but I'm sure the base model RWD truck weighed in about 1215 kgs which is more believable.
If you happen to find that grommet somewhere please let us know. I have searched my local auto parts stores to make something work, but I haven't found anything and since my PU doesn't have it anymore I don't even know what it looked like originally.
here is what i found i think i,m going to try and make something that will work. there are all kinds of possibility's here at least it's a starting point.
http://www.siraweb.com/filterSearch?q=bracket
Oh, as for the hood support, I'm seriously looking at these for my own truck (might require modifying the installation) -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Hood-....c100005.m1851
...or pretty red ones -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-...hadEMR&vxp=mtr
While I'm sure I could make those work. I like the KISS (Keep it stupid simple) nature of this truck. Those gas struts always eventually fail. A metal rod, not so much. I may just have to take my best guess and order some for a Ford, Toyota or GM product that look like a very close match.
this is wild i bought some struts about a month ago for my delta toolbox that didn't fit right. so i got to thinking about attaching them to my hood and now here you guys are talking about doing the same thing. i just need to figure out how to mount them they are 9 inch struts and from what i have seen by placing them in there it will work. just need the pins that the struts attach to. i,m going to be watching this to see what else you guys .come up with.
just found this
http://lstechnologies.ca/products/br...teel-brackets/
better yet
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...ckets&_sacat=0
well geezer got my studs in today and here are the results of my first attempt so far so good the only problem i ran into is the struts i have are to weak to hold up the hood they almost do but not quiet. they are 40lb load i just ordered up some 90lbs loads get this they are for a Porsche hood lift supports struts shocks props fit for Ferrari lol hope that don't make my little truck get the big head
IMG_20180316_133708291.jpgIMG_20180316_134945368_HDR.jpgIMG_20180316_135656487_HDR.jpgIMG_20180316_141616171_HDR.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-45-Ste...53.m2749.l2649
in case you want the link to the studs
and the struts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-2PCS-636...53.m2749.l2649
once the new struts get here and i see if they work then i will do something about the base plate maybe weld some steal plates down and attach them to it. but for right now i figured the wood would work.
Is that how you're planning to permanently attach them?well geezer got my studs in today and here are the results of my first attempt so far so good the only problem i ran into is the struts i have are to weak to hold up the hood they almost do but not quiet. they are 40lb load i just ordered up some 90lbs loads get this they are for a Porsche hood lift supports struts shocks props fit for Ferrari lol hope that don't make my little truck get the big head
IMG_20180316_133708291.jpgIMG_20180316_134945368_HDR.jpgIMG_20180316_135656487_HDR.jpgIMG_20180316_141616171_HDR.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-45-Ste...53.m2749.l2649
in case you want the link to the studs
and the struts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-2PCS-636...53.m2749.l2649
once the new struts get here and i see if they work then i will do something about the base plate maybe weld some steal plates down and attach them to it. but for right now i figured the wood would work.
Ha, I was looking at the same thing today. Even got the measuring tape out
Everything mechanical is prone to failure... but it would be good to pop the hood and not have a metal rod barring you from full access around the engine bay. And the hood rod has a tendency to rattle when the grommet and/or rod anchor clip comes apart. If the 2 gas strut assemblies I added links to are generic parts then at some point I won't be needing to replace the mounting pins and brackets, just the struts. And I do agree with you, why complicate something by adding a potentially weak link? And then you start digging into the bones of these trucks - brakes aren't great, cooling system will cut it up to a point, lighting is crap when you need it, electrics don't like accessories added to them. You get the picture. Don't get me wrong, the MM's and related trucks do their funky thing admirably - but there's scope for improvement. End rant
Is a part missing!? I can't tell for sure but it's as if there is. It looks as if the cables are adjusted about as far as they can be. and adjusting the rachet piece in the hub much results in not being able to put the drum back on. Which BTW since it hasn't been off in several years I'm sure holy crap! I had a greaking go-devil tapping it pretty hard with a propane torch heating the drum near the axle/hub until the thing was hot enough with my gloves on it was uncomfortable to touch the wheel studs to turn it when it finally broke lose. I was about ready to just go hulk on it and say "screw it, if it breaks I don't think drums are that expensive". Luckily it broke lose before that point because I spent over an hour I'm sure on just getting the drum off.
Here's pics of the cables and brakes.
To me, I don't understand how when the cables pulled, and pulling that large lever/arm forward is supposed to spread the shoes, because it just has the one pivot point it's on at the top, it comes forward contacts the rachet lever/release lever? and they both go forward but that's it.....they don't do anything near as I can tell. What the heck?
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