sO I have a small seal leak in the front and i have the cover off and cleaned everything i could. can I run the engine for a couple of minutes to identify what seal is leaking. i'm sure i should just replace them all.
sO I have a small seal leak in the front and i have the cover off and cleaned everything i could. can I run the engine for a couple of minutes to identify what seal is leaking. i'm sure i should just replace them all.
To be honest, unless you know which seal is the culprit, I'd change all of them (there are only 3 seals - crank and 2 balance shaft seals). You can bet good money that even if you replace the worn seal, the others aren't far behind (lets face it, you have to take it apart to get to one seal which means half the job is already done)
If they haven't been done in a while it is probably not a bad idea to throw a new timing belt and water pump on as well, considering the timing belt has to come off to get to those seals and the water pump.
Stellar idea, the covers and belts have to come off to do the seals anyway.Originally Posted by mikec96
So I've ordered the belts, water pump and idler pulley kit. I get how to hold the main gear so I can get the nut off. What is the secret to holding the balance shaft gears so you can take the nuts/bolts loose and tighten. I found a link here on how to make a bar to hold the crank gear is there a post on the rest.
There may be some information useful to you in my build thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26676
The lower part of the post is what you're looking for. I can again thank RedNeckMoparMan for his help (and all the others who guided me).
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
There are 2 bolts on the outside of the block that are used to check shaft alignments. Remove the bolts and put a big @ss screwdriver into the holes to lock the shafts in place (they line up with the flat faces of the counter weights, preventing them from turning)
Here's another post that may be of service
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...7838#post27838
With much respect for Geezer, I don't remember the B shaft having an access hole. And the driver-side sprocket shouldn't need to come off, I don't think.
DO keep us updated on your progress !
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
*getting to the lower side shaft isn't the problem - it's the oil pump shaft seal under the timing gear sprocket. They normally aren't torqued up that tight but you still need to remove the nut holding it on. What about the upper shaft - how do you take the sprocket off it without removing the entire pump housing/timing cover back plate? I thought there was a way to check both shaft alignments post assembly?
new discovery, the outside timing sproket has a 1 inch worn spot on the inside rear wher the key way should be. it allows the sproket to rotate about 30 degrees either direction. Ever see this before? the key is not square either, is rounded on the end. Might be why i get the code 15. rank shaft position not correct?
It's possible this is the reason why it keeps telling the ECU that the position sensor is malfunctioning. I have seen key ways worn out of shape. Someone has either failed to tighten it up properly or the key was damaged/worn out/replaced with a poor fitting key. Should be able to replace the bottom timing sprocket without too much grief. The crank timing sprocket 'should' be the same for all the 4G6X engines.
Diy variable valve timing. Nice
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