So the truck is running but I have a pretty significant valve ticking. I searched this issue here and see that it can be stuck lifters, but the engines all seem to be the 2.0. should I do the diesel flush as well.
So the truck is running but I have a pretty significant valve ticking. I searched this issue here and see that it can be stuck lifters, but the engines all seem to be the 2.0. should I do the diesel flush as well.
An issue I experienced with new lifters was really loud ticking. What happened was I got distracted and put one or two in upside-down.
Just for the record, I soaked them before installation in a recommended solution of automatic transmission fluid and Mystery Oil.
Obviously, I had to remove the rocker arm train and find the misplaced lifters. (This is documented in my build thread).
As the 2.4 lifters are not adjustable, this is the only thing I can think of that would be your problem.
I offer you much encouragement and support - learning these engines really takes a lot of trial-and-error, even if you heed experts' advice
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
If you haven't replaced the lifters and they're all installed correctly, try the diesel flush. It should reduce if not completely silence your gummed up lifters. An engine flush works on all hydraulic lash adjusted systems and will also break up contaminated oil in the sump and oil returns in the engine.
This has been quite the experience. It's a bit over whelming as one post says to do the flush and another said not to as it will open up other issues. Then I read about getting the air out and that blew my mind. There are so many things wrong with this truck it will take a year to sort it all out. Still don't have the cold start issue fixed. I'm about to put front shocks on it, the aftermarket tach reads 1000 all the time at any speed. The need bucket seats and carpet look great though.
o.k. there is a fair bit of paranoia about using diesel to flush out an engine block. I've used the off-the-shelf engine flush and I'm convinced it's nothing more than diesel (except 10 times more expensive). And I was skeptical about trying it out, but it really did the job well. I have driven with the flush oil in my car for 4 days before draining it and I know my engine had been beat on badly (J2 Hyundai that had never been serviced and was used to pull a twin axle camper). Varnish in your block from broken down oil is bad all over and the sediment layer in the bottom of the sump won't budge in a hurry even when doing a regular service. I've seen on other forums where this method has been used on LSD rears that were slipping and it has rejuvenated the clutches in them to near new performance. Unless your engine is already dead, I can guarantee this will not harm your engine under normal driving conditions.
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