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Thread: 86 Ram 50 Transmission Questions (Automatic)

  1. #1

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    86 Ram 50 Transmission Questions (Automatic)

    I recently purchased a 86 Ram 50 and am slowly working on cleaning up the engine compartment, removing anything that doesnt need to be there. Simple and clean is my goal, msd ignition, weber carb, pacesetter exhaust, etc.

    The truck has the automatic transmission.

    My question is how does this automatic transmission get its shift points by. Does this transmission have a computer, vacum sense, etc.

    What things can be eliminated and what must stay. Whats the simplistic way of making sure my transmission works correctly yet allows me to get rid of all the clutter and have a simple wiring harness.

    Seth

  2. #2

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    My truck was converted from auto to manual, I actually believe that a cable just runs from the shifter to the tranny, But IDK, I didn't do the swap in mine. My mom has a Mail Jeep DJ-5G with a Torqueflite 904, which I believe the 86 used, and it just uses a cable, no electronics. All of the shift points are set on the tranny.

    Actually I did the exact same thing you are about to do, in my 87 2wd Manual, I took the carb out and the whole vacuum system out, I have about 5 wires on the passenger side, rather than the 15 or so that came out of the computer

  3. #3



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    It is cable operated kickdown on the baby 904 in the 86 - leave a 1/16 " slack in the cable at idle then adjust from there
    Pennyman1
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  4. #4

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    Thanks for the reply. Can you tell me what the cable kickdown does and theory of operation. I am still learning here.

  5. #5

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    It is so when you floor it, or just give it alot of throttle, such as pulling a hill, it will force the transmission to use a lower gear, so you are higher in the RPM range and have more power.
    Also, I asked if you had a 2.0 or 2.6, because it is hard to find a header for a 2.0. The easiest way to find out if your engine is a 2.0 or 2.6, it will say on the plate that is on the radiator support (I believe that is where it is on a ram 50), if it says G63B, it is a 2.0, if it says G54B, it is a 2.6, or look at the exaust manifold, a 2.0 looks like this (Mine with a Weber 32/36), and a 2.6 looks like this (also with a Weber).
    Here is a Wikipedia link
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_transmission

    Also when looking for a Weber, do not buy a Weber 32/36 DFAV, it is very hard to get parts and instructions for, or a Weber for a standard, get a 32/36, that is for an auto, also make sure "Weber is cast on the carb"

  6. #6

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    Also a 2.0 has a Paired port exhaust, while a 2.6 has an even spaced exhaust.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the help. I understand the kick down now. Does a weber come with the appropriate linkage to reinstall the kickdown cable? Also I am a little confused about your weber recomendation. One line says dont buy a 32/36 dfav, the other line seems to say buy a 32/26.

    I know my exhaust ports are evenly spaced yet not exactly sure if its a 2.0 or a 2.6. Will have to check tomorrow in the daylight. How does one post pictures with a post. I will post some pictures tomorrow and if you can take a look that would be great.

    I am excited about this build and appreciate all the help this forum is providing. The weber I am looking at is on ebay. Heres the link:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-D...item2313e3c23b

    Its a 32/36 DFEV with E. Choke. I am assuming this will do the trick?

    Seth

  8. #8

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    I'm sorry, im just not used to the not being able to edit my posts after I post them, as it used to be, I guess I should donate anyway. But What I meant was the DFAV is not really a true Weber, The 32/36 is the barrel sizes, 32 primary, 36 secondary. Yes, the Ebay carb is the correct carb, it has an auto linkage on it. Uploading pictures isn't to hard, just when you are in quick reply, click the at the top right of the box, and you can either upload an image from your PC or from the internet. I use the theme Velocity (Which you can choose at the bottom left of the page in the click down menu that says "Light Theme"). I use it because it is not as bright and hard to read like "Light Theme" is.

  9. #9

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    Click the image of the tree at the top left of the Quick reply box to post photos.
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  10. #10

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    Cool, thanks again for all the help. Will get some pictures up tomorrow. I believe its a 2.6, yet we can double check tomorrow, or shall I say later today. I am up burning that midnight oil.

  11. #11

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    [IMG]<a href="http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f164/007kettle/Ram%2050/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0246.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f164/007kettle/Ram%2050/IMAG0246.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/IMG]

    Here is a picture, lets see if it comes through okay.

  12. #12

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    [IMG][/IMG]

  13. #13

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    There we go.

  14. #14

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    Yup, that is a 2.6, Where is the rest of it???

  15. #15

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    what? Theres suppose to be more....lol. I have something special planned for the old girl. Just using the running gear. I think it will be a great platform. Glad to hear I have the 2.6, pacesetter headers here I come.

  16. #16



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    Contact doug thorley and see if they still have a header for the 2.6 - it is the best one ever made. And whoever told you that a dfav is not a true weber carb is wrong - I have had both and the only difference is the location of the linkage for the throttle cable - dgxv is under fuel bowl, dfxv is opposite fuel bowl. The dfxv is no longer made, but all parts for the dgxv fits the dfxv. x stands for any version of choke.
    Pennyman1
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  17. #17

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    Then why wouldn't you tell me what the screw was for????? Actually, it was a jet holder. The thing is it is hard to find a tuning manual for it, I got a DGAV (i think) for it now. I didn't mean it wasn't a Weber, I just meant for him to check and make sure it is a true Weber, not a remake line mine.

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