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85 2.0 camshaft warped
Does anyone know how the cam could get warped, I replaced the timing belt it started up and I let it warm up and then I shut it off and it sounded weird and when I walked around I saw the crank pulley hanging by a shredded timing belt and the cam was locked up. Once I got the rockers off I tried to see if the cam was rotating smoothly in the bore to find out it's literally warped and it ate up the bearing type surface in the head. I wanted to know what could have caused this before I put another head and cam on it just in case this wasn't an anomaly
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A cam will never warp. Your head has overheated enough that the cam bed is no longer 'true'. You'll need to replace the head as the resulting damage will have eaten the cam journals. If you have a close look at the journals you will see it is specific points in the journals and caps that have been torn out. This is uncommon with 2.0 G63B's (more likely with the 4G64 heads but even then it isn't a common occurrence). The cam will be fine unless it has taken physical damage.
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That's weird, it's actually never been over 210 degrees. Thanks geezer for pointing me in the right direction though hopefully I'll be able to find a decent replacement head, they're almost non existent around here
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*I need to add this on to this post. Do you know what your oil pressure is like? The RWD G63B engines have inherent oil circulation problems mostly with #1 cylinder rod and crank journals. Oil pressure drop-out can have a devastating effect on the head as well (the mechanical lash adjustable heads are good for chasing power but are not well designed in regards of oil circulation) . The original G63B engine that was in my truck went into catastrophic fail mode due to a oiling problem and it destroyed itself (I got the truck with the engine sitting on a pallet partially pulled down). The bottom end seized and the head ate itself. Not wanting to freak you out or anything, but be thorough if you plan on bringing your engine back into service. Give it a good check over and make sure the bottom end is healthy and the balance shafts don't fell like they are floating in the block as it's the shaft bearings being worn out that can affect oil pressure.
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Thanks, that is actually some really good knowledge to have. I don't know exactly what the pressure was like but I know it was good enough for the pressure light to stay off and it's never come on while driving or anything but I will give it a thorough examination while I have it apart. Btw do you know if a 90s 2.4 head uses the same valvetrain as the g63b head
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AFAIK - no. The 2.4 is a hydraulic head and none of the parts are cross compatible between them (G63B-4G64).
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Alright thanks, I'll see if it works I'm pretty sure my g63b head is hydraulic I was just wondering mostly if I could reuse the valves on the 2.4 head and possibly the cam if it turns out to be reusable. I don't have the two heads side by side to measure anything yet but as far as I can tell they're essentially the same other than no jet valves and slightly larger combustion chambers
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http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...63B-auto-block
Ignore the wide/narrow block thing - only relates to the transmission. You could possibly use the whole head but it will drop your CR's a bit due to the 4G64 combustion chambers being bigger. You do get to offload the jet valves though which is a bonus.
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Thanks that answered my questions for the most part. I just want need to get it running first and I already have access to a 2.4 bare head that I can use. Not exactly worried about power right now. I have all the stuff for the 4g63t swap but the winter season approaching and not having a garage has put that on hold for now
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