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Thread: fuel pump questions, Weber conversion

  1. #26

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    If you trace back the wiring harness from the starter motor (starter solenoid wire is black with a yellow stripe) and the temp sender wire (yellow with a red stripe) there will be a black with white stripe wire taped into that section of the harness (it should be about the middle before joining the main harness). If it's been cut off, you'll be able to find it by unwrapping the electrical tape and tapping into the existing wire. Sorry about not getting back sooner with the info.
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  2. #27

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    Thank you Geezer101. I checked. It is that black wire with the red stripe. It has a male bullet connector on the end of it. I'm not sure if the mechanic changed that from female. The blue wire goes to the choke, the yellow with red stripe goes to the sensor and the middle black wire red stripe is the one that mechanic connected up to the starter (I felt it I did not see it) because if I remember correctly it was hot when it was on. I checked both the choke wire and the black/red stripe wire are hot(11.5dcv) with the key on and cold when the key is off.
    So that is sussed. I guess I need to complete this work before trying to figure out why my instrument panel displays intermittently. That will be another post. Off to get the steel for the pump mount and do other errands. hopefully be back at this by later today.

  3. #28

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    Good that you figured it out. Hmm, someone didn't know the rules about live circuits. All hot wires from the harness should always be female sockets - just in case it gets unplugged and comes in contact with the chassis or engine (or possibly another live circuit) It might be a PITA but you should consider crimping new ends onto it as a precaution (if you can get ones with silicone boots on them that would be the best thing to use).
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  4. #29

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    I just read the instructions. It recommends a PS9or equivalent oil pressure switch be part pf the power circuit. Is that already part of the circuit or do I have to add this in? If I have to add it I will need instruction to make sure I wire it correctly. Here is a pic of the instructions, it is one page. I expected more specifics. Like is the black or white wire supposed to be the power?

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  5. #30

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    They are expecting you to add a pressure switch off the oil filter mount (like the idiot sender for the dash oil warning light). Personally, I wouldn't bother. IF I had the option, I'd use a safety switch like the OEM ones that kill the ignition in the event of a roll over. Otherwise a manual override switch somewhere in the cab would be a good call IMO (if it backlights to let you know it's active, it'll stop you from having a psychotic episode when the engine won't run lol). Whenever I've installed an electric pump I've added one into the centre console.
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  6. #31




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    there is a thread on how to wire in the oil safety pressure switch - it is good insurance, as it also will save the motor if you lose oil pressure while running...
    Pennyman1
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  7. #32

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    Long day. I got the mount built anyway. I won;t have to even undo any part of the vent line. I cut off those mounts and welded them to the new pump mount. It goes in there fine. I'll have to search that oil pressure switch. I think all I need now is to work out which is the supply and which the return in the engine bay I'm pretty sure I can do that Then get some wire connectors and run a wire. I'll take suggestions on the path to run the wire please. Here is a picture of the mount.
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  8. #33

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    I think I found it Pennyman. It is an article titled - "Fuel Management System:Electric Fuel Pump Installation" Below the instructions it has a copy of several diagrams for different installs. Now I know I can keep this running until I find the safety switch and pipe connections (did you say the motor stock pressure fitting is metric Pennyman?) and figure this out to my own comfort level. Might be nice to have it start without having to pour gas into the carb after its been parked a few days. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...6&d=1369160634 I will just get an inline fuse for it then leave it in when I connect a safety switch. Wire running route anyone??

    OK So

    1. 1. Where is the stock oil pressure switch?
    The FSM says "The oil pressure switch is located at the center of the right hand side of the engine." The only thing I have seen there is the temp sending unit. I remember there was a wire that used to hang free below the oil filter which I plugged into something there. Is that it?
    2. On this diagram http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...3&d=1369160014 I would think the wire Geezer pointed me to would suffice as the starter connection. What would the wire connected to ignition switch in this diagram connect to? I think the ignition switch is in the steering column so???

    EDIT- What a fuse should I use for the inline fuse? I think 10a is as low as i will be able to get.

    Fuel Management Systems http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showwiki.php?title=Fuel+Management+System:Electric +Fuel+Pump+Installation&highlight=wire+safety+pres sure+switch


    Last edited by 85Ram50; 08-03-2019 at 09:00 AM.

  9. #34

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    Can anyone tell me how to wire this Standard Oil Pressure sending switch P133 ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=44183&jsn=3
    I can get it off the shelf for $6 but it has no markings to indicate what terminal is NO, NC, C

  10. #35

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    NO is the 'normally open' circuit (this goes to 12v from the live side of the ignition circuit power), NC is 'normally closed' circuit (this is bridged off the starter motor wire to the starter solenoid - it'll supply power to the pump while the starter is cranking) and 'C' is the common (this one goes to the 12v+ input on the fuel pump which would be the white wire in your pic)
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  11. #36

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    OK Geezer. I was mistaken about the wires sort of. The yellow red stripe is correct and the black red stripe is correct but the third wire in that loom is not to the choke, the choke is wired direct to the coil with a blue wire. The third wire in that loom is black yellow stripe to the starter with a female spade connnector. It is only powered when cranking. I have found an Airtex Wells video of the fuel pump oil pressure switch install which is good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPh2Na3vbGc

    I bought the Duralast PS122 at Autozone. https://www.autozone.com/external-en.../123596_0_8537 It does not have the markings on it but they do have them in the online picture. The Duralast marking in the picture align with the P, S, I that is in the Airtex vid. I got the 1/8th pipe fittings and cable ties so I should be good to go and I found a vid on how to T splice wire that seems good to me https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4b_gSciGIg
    I figure the switch is the one under the oil filter.
    So if I understand everything I will run the pump wire directly to the pressure switch P prong, the black yellow stripe wire to the S prong and the black red Stripe to the I prong. I have it up on jack stands and I am done for the day. I did cut that hot wire and put a female bullet connector on it Geezer.

  12. #37

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    Install electric fuel pump 1st gen Mighty Max/D50
    There will be links and a vid of an Airtex Install that makes it very simple and will help 2nd gen trucks for inside the frame install. There will also be a link to the page where this website made a page for it. You may be like me and not able to infer or interpret some of that stuff without having to ask a lot of questions. I added a vid for how to T splice wire that I found.
    It requires a lot more than just the pump and wire. You need at least a oil pressure safety switch to shut down the pump when the motor quits. Some add in a relay as well. I used Duralast PS122 oil pressure switch. The picture of it on Autozone's website shows which pin is which. They are using the P (Power),S (Starter),I (Ignition) designation just like the airtex vid. https://www.autozone.com/external-en.../123596_0_8537 Third picture from the left shows the S and I
    You will need a 1/8 Pipe nipple. I went with a close nipple. And a 1/8th pipe T. I chose brass for both parts and got them at the home supply store. teflon tape. Don't destroy the OE oil pressure indicator you need it.
    You will also need enough wire (min 14awg) to run from the driver side of the engine bay to the fire wall across, along the other fender and down the harness past the alternator twice. And a dead run from the pump to that same spot. I went along the frame rail inside using the abandoned return line to attach with cable ties. Then up the backup light harness and across the firewall.
    1. I removed the OE oil switch and installed the nipple and T. You get some oil which quickly dries up to a drip. I went with the middle of the T and put the sensors into the T on either end. I used teflon tape and after starting the nipple I put the T on it and used the T to drive the nipple in. Then I put teflon tape on the old sensor and the new one had pipe dope on it so I did not bother.
    Airtex Wells install video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPh2Na3vbGc
    2. In the driver side engine bay there is the temp sensor with a yellow wire with red stripe on it. Follow that back to the harness, there will be two other heavy black wires (Mine are red and yellow striped respectively) coming out of the harness. One used to plug into the Mikuni it should be hanging free, the other goes to the starter. You can run from the end of the free one.[EDIT-if you have the Mikuni still you can T off this wire END EDIT] That goes to the I position on the oil switch. You T into the other heavy black wire and it goes to the S post on the oil switch. The other post gets the wire from the pump. The wire to the starter is only hot when cranking. The other one is hot as long as the key is on. No Solder wire T splice video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4b_gSciGIg
    I then removed the fuel pump and capped the return line up front. I ran from the main supply line to the Weber. I had to move the inlet nipple to the other side to make it easier for me. I made a cover for the hole in the head with the same sheet metal I used on the pump mount. I have the plastic spacer and a new gasket. I used red gasket maker too. I had to get shorter bolts, at autozone they are M8 x 1.25x 25mm I think.
    (Zoinks do you know to remove the skirt? You need to get access to the bolts on top which are inside the interior panel of the bed. I had to drill out the screw in the panels and the bolts.)
    You can see my mount allows all the original equipment to stay in use. I cut off the connectors and welded two to my mount the other one for the filter I cut the steel off the nut and just used it behind the mount plate. I started with that style mount plate becuase the one that inspired me to try was designed in that shape. Then I started cutting it to suit my needs.
    After I got everything installed and hooked the battery back up it runs great. I left it idle while I took it down from the jack stands. No issues yet.

    Electric fuel pump install complete.

    Sorry about the blurry pic of the oil pressure switch but I am showered and not interested in getting dirty again
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    [top]Fuel Management System:Electric Fuel Pump Installation

    Last edited by 85Ram50; 08-04-2019 at 06:40 PM.

  13. #38

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    ^that is how you do a write up The pump mounting plate is nice too but I'd do something about the wiring for the pump (I think it needs to be routed in-board and sheathed in something to protect it personally) So, if you compare the PS122 switch with the Airtex vid, the wiring is 'NO' (normally open) = 'S' for the starter motor wire, 'NC' (normally closed) = 'I' is the live ignition power 12v+ and 'C' = 'P' for power 12v+ to the fuel pump. Easy as!
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  14. #39

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    Hey Geez, I thought I had messed something up at first because the starter sounded so different. But it started after the third try and I liked how it was running. Then it hit me that extra always hot wire that mechanic connected to the starter was driving it a lot harder than it should want to go. I bet this improves my gas mileage too.

  15. #40




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    Sorry I didn't respond sooner, have been busy with a kitchen remodel. Looks like you got it working though - good job!
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  16. #41

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    No Worries Pennyman you left enough bread crumbs I was able to work it out. As I recall not the first time you have saved my bacon on this truck. Lets not forget Geezer's invaluable assistance either.

  17. #42




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    We both try to help where we can...
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  18. #43

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    You're welcome
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