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Thread: ARP head stud kit G54B!

  1. #1

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    ARP head stud kit G54B!

    Just be aware the threads have to be cleaned out a tap works the best they say finger tight but it comes with a Allen wrench so use it, the only one that will give you a fit is the head stud closest to the driver (American) as their is a oil shield under the valve cover it can hang up on if the stud is too high. Looks like the rest should clear no problem. Maybe drilling a hole in the shield would be easier in a pinch.

    Tried a thread chaser but it won't get deep enough so found a tap and that did way better just do them all the bottom holds he key to getting the bolt to go low enough to seal the cover gasket. (Don't ask how I know this!) LOL

    For the chain tensioner not wanting to go back in a LONG screwdriver will get it in when you need to put the cam sprocket back on the cam.

    Good news is the final torque is 90lb so with that and a laminated head gasket it should be good to go.

  2. #2




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    usually you have to trim the fins on the valve cover to clear the head studs - interesting you got it to clear without the trim. I thought the final torque was 75 ft-lbs, but it won't come loose with a few extra pounds of torque.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  3. #3

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    It said 90lb final torque with the studs on the instructions the big problem was the oil deflector plate for the hose at the back of the cover on the drivers side that sticks down quite a bit I should figure a pattern and just drill a hole in it next time!

  4. #4

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    Looked over a spare head and cover I have out there it only looked like 2 places the studs might hit one is the drivers side back of the cover oil deflection plate for the breather hose and the next stud up has a smaller deflection box for a hole in the top cover above it but that stud would be installed wrong to be that high. The rest of the cover is smooth sailing the rockers are higher then the studs will ever be. The only 2 spots that protrude down into the rocker/stud areas are on the upper right of the valve cover pic. (Flipped over it's on the opposite side in the photo)

    Siliconed the cover a few days ago and let it sit, started it up no problems never had to trim anything just needed to get the stud holes CLEAN and the studs as far down as it would go. That cleaning the stud holes sounds easy and on a engine stand it might be easier but in the vehicle it's not so easy as gravity is the enemy. I blew the holes out, used a chop vac, thread chasers (waste of time) and used a tap (best) to clean the threads out.

    cover.jpg
    Last edited by Law Dog; 09-21-2017 at 02:37 PM.

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