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Thread: About to do brakes on an 87 2wd — anything I need to know beforehand?

  1. #1

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    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    I.D.K.?

    About to do brakes on an 87 2wd — anything I need to know beforehand?

    My new-to-me 87 2wd Mighty Max ( http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...21-Hello-hello ) failed MO inspection yesterday, mostly due to brake issues. So this weekend I'm going to be doing new brakes front and rear — new pads, rotors, calipers up front, new drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders in back.

    I've done discs and drums on other cars before (old Civic, Jeep Cherokee, Ford E-series) but haven't done them on this truck yet.

    Is there anything about the brakes on these trucks that I should know going in? Are there other things I should replace while I'm in there? Any specific ordering for bleeding the brakes?

    Can I just pull off the rotor or do I need to remove the wheel bearing? (If I do need to remove it, should I repack it/replace it?)

    Are there odd-sized bolts anywhere? I'd prefer not to have to run out for tools halfway through.

    I believe I have all necessary tools (including torque wrench and electric impact gun), but it's been a little while since I've done auto work and want to be sure I'm going in prepared.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2

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    Hey, mattm! Perhaps my thread on rear brakes will be of service to you - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post56031

    The front caliper brakes are very easy, just follow the Haynes manual. No need to take the disks off...a bitch of a process...but you can re-pack the wheel bearings to some degree with them on.

    I got all my parts from RockAuto, except I did not replace the drums (nor had them turned) - they were in decent condition, and new ones or turning the old ones turned out to be an expense I wanted to avoid.

    Quoting from the next thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post56032 is an important starting point:
    First, when you start out on this project, get some J. B. Blaster or Liquid Wrench parts-loosener on the brake fluid line fittings and the wheel cylinder bolts. I did this two days in advance, to give it plenty of time to work. I performed two applications, one just before working on the project.

    Second, do NOT try to get those brake lines off without using a brake wrench...it looks like a box-end with a small gap, to allow the wrench to slip over the brake line, and gives maximum grip on the fitting. This truck uses a 10 MM brake wrench.
    If you get in trouble, give us a holler here on the forum

    Good luck and keep us posted!
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  3. #3

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    I.D.K.?
    Thank you, royster! that thread (and those photos) are very helpful.

    I've ordered new rotors, but if they're that much of a bear to replace I will leave the old ones on (assuming they pass visual inspection).

    I have brake line wrenches and PB blaster, so we're good there. (Actually, since you mention it I should probably start spraying bolts now...)
    Last edited by mattm; 10-04-2017 at 11:05 AM. Reason: typo

  4. #4

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    You're welcome, mattm!

    As long as the rotors don't have deep grooves in them, they should pass inspection. I scruffed mine up with sandpaper to break any glaze.

    Glad I could help.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

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