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Thread: Mikuni carb

  1. #1

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    Mikuni carb

    I am looking at my mikuni carb running rich and contemplating the next move. 1985 D50 power ram 2.6l. Did a compression test yesterday and had 145, 127, 145, 145. Squirted a little oil down 2 checked again and bang 175psi so I have a ring issue. This truck has been sitting for who knows how long so plan on driving as is. I have another 2.6 on another truck and the plan now is a rebuild of that and then into this truck. Rebuilding over the winter. At that time I'd probably go with the consensus on here and put in a weber carb.
    My question now is does anyone still use a mikuni carb? Anyone rebuilt one to any degree of success? I have two extras and see kits and float kits are not to expensive so am thinking of trying a rebuild. I read all the changeover to Webers posts and the success posters are having, and wonder are there no Mikuni satisfied users out there? Thanks.

  2. #2

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    Once you put on the Weber and see all the junk hoses and what goes with it you can clean up from under the hood you will see the point of not keeping the old style of carb.

  3. #3

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    There are 2 main problems with the Mikuni carb - their CFM restriction and the anti pollution mechanisms. The Mikuni is a complicated carb to perform a full rebuild on if you are stripping it down to every last 'O' ring and seal. I have found that most rebuild kits need to be custom trimmed by hand as the main gaskets don't fit properly and overhang into the main venturis and internal vacuum galleries. The Mikuni also suffers from water choke mechanism failures which are really difficult to replace (the wax pellet housing corrode out + the inner seals fail if they are overheated/run without coolant and generally fail from age). Their primary function is low to mid range torque but on highway driving strangle the engine and are well, terrible for any kind of performance due to the pollution gear on them (this isn't just the carb but the exhaust gas recirculation into the intake as well) You can delete some of the EGR junk on the stock carb which will improve engine efficiency but you're still stuck with the biggest stumbling block of the Mikuni's CFM rate. The Weber 32/36 does a great job of fuel delivery as it can keep ahead of the demand for CFM that the 4 cylinder engines need across the rpm range (it will trade a small loss of low rpm torque for the improvement of power from about 1500 rpm onwards). They're easy to pull down and rebuild, the kits are cheap, the electric chokes eliminate coolant hoses and the problem with the wax pellet choke on the factory carb, and the 2.0 - 2.6 engines respond very well to these carbs with both power and fuel economy when they're tuned properly.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    There are 2 main problems with the Mikuni carb - their CFM restriction and the anti pollution mechanisms. The Mikuni is a complicated carb to perform a full rebuild on if you are stripping it down to every last 'O' ring and seal. I have found that most rebuild kits need to be custom trimmed by hand as the main gaskets don't fit properly and overhang into the main venturis and internal vacuum galleries. The Mikuni also suffers from water choke mechanism failures which are really difficult to replace (the wax pellet housing corrode out + the inner seals fail if they are overheated/run without coolant and generally fail from age). Their primary function is low to mid range torque but on highway driving strangle the engine and are well, terrible for any kind of performance due to the pollution gear on them (this isn't just the carb but the exhaust gas recirculation into the intake as well) You can delete some of the EGR junk on the stock carb which will improve engine efficiency but you're still stuck with the biggest stumbling block of the Mikuni's CFM rate. The Weber 32/36 does a great job of fuel delivery as it can keep ahead of the demand for CFM that the 4 cylinder engines need across the rpm range (it will trade a small loss of low rpm torque for the improvement of power from about 1500 rpm onwards). They're easy to pull down and rebuild, the kits are cheap, the electric chokes eliminate coolant hoses and the problem with the wax pellet choke on the factory carb, and the 2.0 - 2.6 engines respond very well to these carbs with both power and fuel economy when they're tuned properly.


    Thank you Geezer for the explanation. I appreciate the time you took in your response. I guess I knew the Weber was the way to go. I have another engine to get rebuilt and when I do I'll top er off with a nice new weber 32/36 electric choke carb.

  5. #5

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    Dropped off the head at one place in Spokane Wa for a rebuild and the crank and block at another to prep for a rebuild, hope to pick up in a week. So onto the weber carb 32/36 with electric choke search. Any linkage and air cleaner issues I might get some advice on?

  6. #6

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  7. #7

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  8. #8




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    First one is a 38dges - more for a modded motor with cam and header, but can be jetted for stock motor. The second one is the 32/36 dgev - better match for stock motor. If your truck is an auto, you need the K614 dfav with automatic kickdown linkage.
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  9. #9

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    My truck is standard. Do i need the linkage kit also for the second on?

  10. #10




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    what comes with it in the picture will work on a standard tranny motor.
    Pennyman1
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  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    what comes with it in the picture will work on a standard tranny motor.



    Thank you for your advice.

  12. #12

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    Ordered the Weber carb in the above post, and this fuel pump “Carter P4070 In-Line Electric Fuel Pump”
    picking up my bored out rebuilt block and head on Friday, looking forward to getting the old motor out and this one in.

  13. #13

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    [top]The Carter P4070 In-Line Electric Fuel Pump.


  14. #14

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    My block and head are in Spokane Wa. for a rebore and rebuild. Should be ready for pickup friday. Looking forward to getting it on the road.

  15. #15

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    Post up a pic so we can see what kind of work the shop has put in for you.
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  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Post up a pic so we can see what kind of work the shop has put in for you.




    I will do that. Do you or anyone else know if this fuel pump will do the job?

    https://www.amazon.com/Carter-P4070-Line-Electric-Fuel/dp/B000CIQ5DG

  17. #17

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    That pump will work. Be warned that the Carter is a noisy critter and the rubber bushes that come with it do not last long. It's kinda pricey too. The unit I'd recommend is the Carbole 42S - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CarBole-Ele...EAAOSwMK9aPjHZ

    Right fuel flow and pressure for the Weber, half the price of the Carter. It's the same pump as the Mr Gasket 42S, just repackaged.
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  18. #18

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    I took your advice and ordered your fuel pump will return the other one.

  19. #19

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    Where did you mount your fuel pump?

  20. #20

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    Get it close as you can to the fuel tank and mount it somewhere that it's protected from dirt and water being sprayed up to it (the shorter the distance the fuel is to the pump, the less work it has to do to prime the line and the carb) I haven't bought one of these pumps yet but other members have and they have worked well. I'll actually be buying 2 of these pumps when I'm ready - that's if I can get my spare fuel tank to tuck up behind the rear axle (I'll add a secondary fuel line, a 'T' joiner and 2 check valves, pretty cheap to set up - 114 litre fuel capacity anyone?)
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  21. #21

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    Will follow the fuel pump advice. The motor will be ready for pickup Monday.

  22. #22

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    The motor won't be ready. Nice of American Engine in Spokane Wa to decide he didn't have time to rebuild the engine. So its home in the garage and will have to do myself. Will start a separate post about the rebuild. He did do the block, crank and and he got the new pistons onto the rods, I had the heads done at Spokane Cylinder, they do excellent work. Hope to start today.

  23. #23

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    Damn, they shouldn't have taken it on if they weren't prepared to finish it. Got a pic of the finished head?
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  24. #24

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    Here is the block got the mains pistons and balance bars in today. When I get the head unwrapped will post a pic. But for now here is the block after today.
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  25. #25

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    The head on and pics for for Geezer. All timed ready to finish tomorrow.
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