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Thread: KM130 backup switch bearing ball.

  1. #1

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    KM130 backup switch bearing ball.

    Summary- Found out I had missed the ball when I removed the switch years ago. I did some searching yesterday and found these two links; http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...e-light-switch and https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/...e-light-switch

    I expect 4Door civ used the 7mm ball he had. The second link mentions using two balls but does not say what size the two were(the Triton is the name given the Mighty Max Aus) Someone else in that link names the size 5/16 which is just before 8mm in size. I got one and put it in. The light stayed on no matter what gear. I got another and put it in and could not take the trans out of reverse. When I pulled the switch the 2nd ball was stuck to the end of the switch. When I removed it the plunger was permanently stuck in. At first I thought it was the grease but now it seems it was compressed on to it. I inserted a magnet on the other end of a metal scribe and the first ball I put in did not come out. I got in and it moves through all gears with it off no clutch which is normal for this unit.
    So where is the other ball? Is it now a random explosion waiting to go off in my trans? What is the exact correct size of ball? Since it seem it must be larger than 5/16 or on the other hand maybe RA sent me the wrong switch and the plunger was not long enough? It was only when I added the second ball that I felt resistance on screwing the switch in as if the plunger were compressing. The stack exchange link explains how the switch works too.

    I can't drive it until I unload the gravel in it I'll update then. Should be only a day or two.
    EDIT- Just in case what kind of trans upgrade can I put behind the G63B?
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 08-21-2017 at 05:15 PM.

  2. #2

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    There is other switches in the transmission that also contain metal balls as they too are momentary switches. I can only hope the metal balls for all these switches are of the same size. I'm going to try and use a ball from another switch in the transmission and hope it works out. If it does I will be taking the ball to an automotive store and ask if they have a bearing with balls of the same size.

  3. #3

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    The 5 speed is a good transmission. Fairly strong and reliable for a stock gearbox. They suffer from failure due to either abuse or a big increase in HP. Fitting a 'tuff-pan' type sump plate stops the transmission case from flexing. The KM130 is a 4 speed right?

  4. #4

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    Yes this is the 4sp trans.
    Is there a correct procedure as in the idea I had that it should be in reverse before removing the switch? Seems like the ball should stay put regardless of the gear it was in. When I stuck the magnet in it felt like I was hitting a flat piece of metal when it bottomed out. IDK how to explain that.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by BJH324JH View Post
    There is other switches in the transmission that also contain metal balls as they too are momentary switches. I can only hope the metal balls for all these switches are of the same size. I'm going to try and use a ball from another switch in the transmission and hope it works out. If it does I will be taking the ball to an automotive store and ask if they have a bearing with balls of the same size.
    I was hoping I didn't have to open this trans up. My body isn't up to much more this season. Once I get the bed empty I am going to drain the fluid and hope the bearing falls out. Can you take that bottom plate off without anything falling out?

  6. #6


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    Yes the bottom plate can come off without loosing anything but oil and broken bits...

    Xmission Gasket.JPG

    Xmission Cover inside.JPG

  7. #7

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    You are going to want to drain the transmission before removing the pan. Only if you don't want yourself drenched in oil. Prepare yourself with new oil, gasket and aluminum washers for the drain and filler plugs. Hope you find that darn ball.

  8. #8

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    OK Alum washers and gasket. I have a couple Liters Valvoline 80W-90 gear oil. Is that good enough or should I have a different weight? Can I safely rotate the trans by running the motor with it open a few rotations if I have the wheels off the ground? I was thinking the ball might fall out that way if not by draining it. i'm going to put a magnet inside by the drain when I close it back up too.

  9. #9

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    Had to order a gasket set on RA as no one in town had one. What the heck are all the other gaskets for? I can't even imagine what they might go on. I also ordered another backup light switch. If it weren't for the interwebs most of these truck would got tits up. EDIT- I found nothing about washers or bolts for the pan.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 08-22-2017 at 04:12 PM.

  10. #10

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    The magnet is a good idea but it had better be a rare earth magnet. I am sure you can buy aftermarket magnetic sump plugs - might be worth exploring. Has anyone had experience with 'Petron Plus' friction modifier? I saw a youtube vid where a guy does an engineering controlled test with about 8 different products and the Petron was just freaky. I think this stuff would make a noticeable impact in a transmission.

  11. #11

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    Why rare earth? I figured a magnet was a magnet. Never heard of 'Petron Plus'.

  12. #12




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    the ball won't be in the pan area unless you have real problems with the case. A good place to get a rare earth magnet is out of an old computer hard drive.
    Pennyman1
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  13. #13

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    Rare earth magnets are really powerful. A standard magnet might jolt free of the pan if you hit a decent enough bump (imagine it sailing towards your gears - not good...) O.k I'll give you the ejakayshun I got one evening cruising youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pt_Dh3hHr6o
    The dude doing the demo is as boring as watching your lawn grow but the test he is running was really surprising.

  14. #14


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    Transmission manual is here

    http://mmeierle.com/mighty%20max%20info.htm

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by LSR Mike View Post
    Thanks for that. Since it is in Aussie, is my 85 Ram 50 G63B 2wd the Exp L200-2wd 4G63? Making the trans model of the KM130 the R5M21-5-DI4
    EDIT- I may need a while to figure out what this manual is saying I can't make heads or tails of it yet. I get the pictures though

    Pennyman in a hard drive!? Wouldn't that magnet destroy the data? I'll see if I want to sacrifice one of them. BTW is it possible I pushed the ball through into the gearing? or should it be there at the bottom of the hole?
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 08-23-2017 at 08:55 AM.

  16. #16

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    I see in the several diagrams in the trans manual that the backup light switch has a gasket. How thick is that gasket?
    Edit- I think its the round gasket in the gasket set.

  17. #17

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    The 5 speed in D-50's with a G63B engine are the KM132. Double checked it against Project Zero G

    http://projectzerog.com/transmissions.shtml

  18. #18

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    Thanks Geez. I got it unloaded and moved it a few feet today. There was nothing unusual but it was only a few feet. I'm leaning toward the idea that there is nothing wrong from my attempts to make the switch work. I hope it holds out long enough for me to get the shop done.

  19. #19


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    The Rare Earth magnet in a Hard Drive is part of the read/write head servo positioning, so it is away from the disk magnetic media coating where the 1's and 0's are located. I have one stuck to the side of my toolbox for those tough to get at bolt & screw retrieval missions.

  20. #20

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    According to the Chilton manual, the recommended lubricant for the manual transmission would be, "API classification GL-4. SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W" gear oil. The drain plug already has a magnet in it, but, I think that a stronger magnet wouldn't be a bad idea. Just make sure to secure it as best as you can. As for the backup light switch crush washer, you can probably reuse the old one by annealing it. Your auto parts store should carry some crush washers, I bought some in copper and hope they work as well as the aluminum ones. I'm also going to be applying gasket sealant #2 to the threads of all the switches on the transmission.

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  21. #21

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    I am thinking that using a synthetic low friction additive wouldn't be a bad idea. The transmission is one place that not only cops a lot of abuse, but also causes some level of parasitic loss of energy (this could equate to a percentage of fuel consumption and loss of torque). I've seen Slick 50 on the market for a long time but wasn't completely sold on it (it's expensive and it doesn't hold up any better than most other additives or even SAE rated oil). The test in the video I posted up pretty much confirmed that statement. But the Petron additive was really a surprise. Bit steep for a bottle but if it gives the result in that video, well I'd be prepared to hand over the cash.

  22. #22

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    The FSM says API GL-4 MOPAR hypoid gear oil with no specified weight. I just read the quarts I have they are Valvoline High Performance 80W-90 API GL-4 and API GL-5 for differentials and API GL-5 for non-synchronized manual transmissions. So it looks like a trip back to the farm store to see if I can exchange these.

  23. #23

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    Ended up trading them in. I had to go to a auto parts store and got Redline MT-90 which was GL-4. Also found a transfer pump I hope works as claimed. Parts guy told me he had used some GL-5 in his VW that called for GL-4 and said it made it almost impossible to shift. Also said GL-5 can eat brass retainers. ?? don't know about the second one but I have heard similar things about the wrong kind of fluid causing problems.

  24. #24

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    After a bit of research it appears GL-5 may not be ideal for 'yellow metal' internals (brass bushes, bronze synchros and copper). Where there's a chance of heat* being introduced into the equation, the component of the GL-5 that makes it low friction can attack brass (sulphur/phosphor) There is a corrosion inhibitor added to GL-5 but this gear oil is only suitable for transmissions specifying GL-5 oil.

    *the estimated temperature is 300 deg but not all GL-5 oils are the same. I'd stick to GL-4. I would bet good money even with the corrosion inhibitors, eventually they will start eating brass/bronze. Add that to a 30+ year old transmission and nothing good will come out of it.

  25. #25




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    Redline MT-90 is the way to go, although I am using royal purple in Geronimo for many years without issues. Don't remember if it is a gl-4 or gl-5, but the gl-5 also usually has anti-slip additives that may be the source of the corrosion of brass parts. I always read not to use gl-5 in manual trannys but never got a good explanation other than it would cause shifting problems when cold.
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