KM130 backup switch bearing ball.

[4doorciv]

Amsoil manual trans fluid for me. Expensive though.

[BJH324JH]

I got this from O'Reilly:
oil.jpglio.jpg

I am starting to regret my purchase after researching Gl-5 rated oil. GL-5 is one hell of a confusing oil! Some people love it, some hate it. A lot of people on various forums say that GL-5 corrodes "yellow metal". The KM-145 Transmission definitely has "yellow metal" in it. I just opened the transmission and can confirm it does. You can even Google KM145 transmission rebuild kit, an amazon link should pop up. Click on it and look at the picture, you can see what appears to be brass gears. Now what confuses me is people on various oil forums saying the newer versions of GL-5 wont corrode "yellow metal". Others say it does. WHICH IS IT!!! To fortify my confusion, the masterpro oil I bought from O'Reilys says it is compatible with manual transmissions and I quote, "Suitable for use where the following API service designations apply: GL-2, GL-3, GL-4, and GL-5." I'm going to have to find a number to call the people that make the stuff for O'Reilys and get an answer from them...

Update: Just called the manufacturer that makes this oil and they said it is not compatible with yellow metal.

[85Ram50]

I'm not inclined to argue with the specs in the FSM just yet. I don't have the experience. I have the feeling that if I would have used the Valvoline I would not have noticed any problems for a while if at all but I'd rather do what the manual says to be safe. I expect the Valvoline was ok for GL-4 differentials because they are all steel.

I just had the idea that I could spray a WD-40 or some brake cleaner into the open hole of the Backup light switch and maybe that would help the first 5/16 ball come out. I'm hoping I did not crush it in there. 4door I am waiting for a new switch when it comes I will hook it up and test it before trying to install it.

EDIT- Question, what is the correct procedure for installing the backup light switch? There is no mention of it in the FSM.

[geezer101]

If the ball bearing doesn't drop out on it's own accord, you may be in for some trouble. The switch plunger has some travel in it before the switch circuit opens. The switch is a straight forward affair to install. Hold the ball in place, make sure you have the crush washer installed on the switch and screw it in until it is firmly seated, then plug it into the loom. IDK if there's a torque spec for it but it'll be common sense not to wrench hell out of it or leave it hand tight so it leaks oil.

[BJH324JH]

Here is what I did to install the backup light switch with it's accompanying headache inducing steel ball(5/16 inch.).

1. Put manual transmission in neutral.
2. Insert steel ball into threaded transmission hole while at the same time threading in the backup light switch. (Be patient, this part is tricky)
3. Tighten it with a 19mm wrench just snug enough. REMEMBER, IT IS TWENTY PLUS YEAR OLD ALUMINUM YOU ARE THREADING INTO.
4. Reconnect wires and test. If backup light switch is not working as it should, it is most likely bad. Don't forget to add the crush washer before threading back in the back up light switch. I would also recommend adding sealant to the threads.

Some other stuff related to the backup light switch: To make removing and installing the backup light switch easier, I modified it. Soldered on some new wires to the back up light switch with crimped on female insulated bullet connectors on the other end. For the other wire, I crimped on male insulated bullet connectors. This little modification makes working on the truck much better. I had ripped the wire so many times while removing and installing it that it just got on my nerves! Mitsubishi, you knew you could have done better!

Disconnected:
20170826_171335.jpg

Connected:
20170826_170940.jpg

[85Ram50]

I figure I at least wedged it in there when I tried with the second ball. IDK why the new switch didn't work with the single 5/16 ball. I'll test this one before I try installing it and I will really try to get the first ball out. Otherwise I may need to rig up a manual switch.
Thanks BJ mine has bullet connectors.

EDIT 7-22-20 In case you are reading this it should be in Neutral when installing the backup light switch. I was not in neutral when I installed the first one.

[geezer101]

... I had ripped the wire so many times while removing and installing it that it just got on my nerves! Mitsubishi, you knew you could have done better!

This isn't entirely Mitsubishi's fault in regards to this design. If you take a look at how the truck was assembled in factory you'll notice a few things that make working on it suck. That centre pinion carrier bearing in the 2 piece tail shaft is a shi(ite)ning example. The drivetrain was installed prior to the tub body being bolted down so the easy way to replace the carrier bearing is to take off the tray (which will take as long as busting your hands and eating dirt trying to get it from underneath).The connection to the reversing switch is roughly in line with the forward plug to the tail light assemblies - so it's logical to assume the first intention was to speed the assembly process up while fitting the tub body. And probably to reduce the risk of it being fouled or caught up during it's life.

85Ram- when you say the switch "doesn't work" do you mean no reverse lights or constant reverse lights? If it's no lights there might be a break further up the wiring loom.

[BJH324JH]

I figure I at least wedged it in there when I tried with the second ball. IDK why the new switch didn't work with the single 5/16 ball. I'll test this one before I try installing it and I will really try to get the first ball out. Otherwise I may need to rig up a manual switch.
Thanks BJ mine has bullet connectors.

Curious, did you modify or did it come from the factory like that?

[BJH324JH]

This isn't entirely Mitsubishi's fault in regards to this design. If you take a look at how the truck was assembled in factory you'll notice a few things that make working on it suck. That centre pinion carrier bearing in the 2 piece tail shaft is a shi(ite)ning example. The drivetrain was installed prior to the tub body being bolted down so the easy way to replace the carrier bearing is to take off the tray (which will take as long as busting your hands and eating dirt trying to get it from underneath).The connection to the reversing switch is roughly in line with the forward plug to the tail light assemblies - so it's logical to assume the first intention was to speed the assembly process up while fitting the tub body. And probably to reduce the risk of it being fouled or caught up during it's life.

85Ram- when you say the switch "doesn't work" do you mean no reverse lights or constant reverse lights? If it's no lights there might be a break further up the wiring loom.

I love Mitsubishi, just weird that they didn't put bullet connectors on the backup light switch while the rest of the switches on the transmission do have bullet connectors.

[85Ram50]

BJ As far as I can tell this is the way it was wired when I bought it. The switch from rock auto has bullet connectors.
Geez the lights stayed on full time any gear and neutral until I broke the new switch. The plunger is stuck all the way in permanently. I'm hoping to determine that the switch will turn them off when I test it tomorrow. I can stand alongside and do that since the top half of the wire is free so I can just plug it in standing by the engine bay and walk back while holding the switch to see if the lights go on and off as I push the plunger. I'm going to have to go get a crush washer. Are they standard for each size? or do the have different amounts of crush?

[geezer101]

You'll find that the copper washers will crush to whatever torque you're applying to them. I have a feeling copper crush washers are all the same thickness (1/16"). Not thick enough to alter the switch sensitivity by much. You can unplug the switch and feed the wiring extension from the engine bay a fair way out (maybe 3 feet?) which is more than enough for you to be able to test it by hand. It should switch off and on easily with your thumb.

[85Ram50]

Thanks. I should say that when the switch is plugged in the lights come on and stay on period. Even the new switch that was clearly broken though I did not know it until I removed it, kept the lights on until I disconnected the wires. As I write I get the feeling that might be significant since as I understand the function when the plunger is depressed the lights go off. OK I just went and plugged the new switch in and it turns the light off when I depress the plunger. So it is definitely something to do with the hole.

[85Ram50]

OK the second new backup switch is working! I took pout the one I broke sprayed a bit of WD40 in there and I was wiping down the trans thinking about how I might pry out the lost ball and the ball fell out! It still had the grease on it. Maybe that grease affected the first new switch and prevented it from coming out the last time? Anyway I sprayed out the hole real good with WD-40 let it dry out then put the ball and switch in. It was in Neutral, there was no light then put it in reverse and the light came on.

Conclusions- 5/16 ball works. Don't us the dab of grease I suggested to hold the ball in place. Instead jack up the truck and support it with jack stands because you will be under it up to your belly at least with both arms installing this thing. I also found it helpful to have the wire tail hang out over the exhaust pipe until it is fully in. Have trans in Neutral when working with the backup switch.

I have the bottom pan off and sprayed the trans and pan with engine cleaner to get the cooked on oil off it. Probably do the oil pan gasket next. If you get the gasket set for the trans there is a soft plastic reusable washer for the plug in it.

Thanks for all the help guys!

EDIT- I got the trans filled. The hole is on the driver side 17mm Here is a picture of the pump I found for $7.99 I put the hose in the hole and did the job standing alongside the truck with the bottle sitting on the air cleaner cover. It drives a lot better. I may have put the wrong kind of juice in the last time I drained it. The top hole sucks the bottom blows. I primed the top hole with a drop of oil and a few pumps before sticking the hoses onto it. It works perfectly until the bottle gets low then you need two more hands. Oh yea the pan may be square but the holes aren't aligned as if it were. There is a front to the pan and the gasket. I soaked the gasket in oil like the Weber carb kit suggests and as long as you can keep the pan flat it works a treat
pump.jpg