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Thread: Dash gauges inop 1988

  1. #1

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    Dash gauges inop 1988

    Looking for help with gauges inop. Print board has several burnt sections. Any soures for this board? Is there a voltage regulator for the dash board like the old Mopars?
    Thanks Tom
    1988 D50
    auto a/c
    4wd
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  2. #2

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    There is a voltage regulator near the dash in the loom.
    If you can't find a spare cluster you may be able to repair it with a conductive pen, or soldering some jumper wires. I have one you can have but it's here in NZ

  3. #3

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    It is uncommon for an instrument panel to blow tracks like that. Was the circuit board damaged by moisture/corrosion? If there is an electrical fault somewhere in the wiring, you'll need to rectify it before replacing it (I'd recommend sourcing a whole used instrument cluster and installing it). Try tortron's suggestion of running jumpers on the panel just to see if you can get the gauges to work first. Don't solder them in though - only test the gauges out for function. If they work then I'd get another cluster, it's really not worth the headache of having a bunch of bridging wires all over the circuit board (IMO)

  4. #4



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    It also depends on where the traces are blown and what they go to. If someone put the wrong bulbs in, it could have drawn too much power and toasted the traces. The flexible board traces do not have a high current rating, and after 25-30 years they get brittle and fail from fatigue from heat - cold cycles
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  5. #5

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    Dont run 12v through the gauges directly, they will blow (burn out the fine wires inside) I think they are 10v

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by salem1912 View Post
    Looking for help with gauges inop. Print board has several burnt sections. Any soures for this board? Is there a voltage regulator for the dash board like the old Mopars?
    Thanks Tom
    1988 D50
    auto a/c
    4wd
    I got a unit for my 1st gen at the boneyard and just took the circuit board of it and put it on my existing unit so I didn't lose the odometer reading. if you don;t care about that you can probably just replace the unit with a used one if the 88 is similar to the 1st gen. EDIT I do not recall how I did it. I'm pretty sure it was plug and play but that may not apply to your 2nd gen.

  7. #7

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    Gen 1's have a solid PCB, Gen 2's have flexible 'ribbon' boards. Normally the pin-out connections have rubbish soldered joints and a quick hit with a soldering iron fixes them (I was plagued with dead instruments and back lights in one car - it was an easy fix once I figured out it was a dry soldering issue)

  8. #8

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    I got the gauges working by bridging the burn't section. Going to put a in-line fuse in. Don't know why it happen and it wasn't the 7volt section that still good.

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the help guy's.

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