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Thread: food for thought

  1. #1

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    Talking food for thought

    as some of you may know i have been working on my 1988 dodge ram sport 2.6l with automatic transmission now for over a year. the weber carb has done nothing but give me fits with the run on issues.
    i talked to redline techs did everything they suggested
    vacuum advance check all good,
    new plugs all good,
    new breather all good,
    newrubber vacuum line coming from the distributor to the carb all good,
    i have adjusted the timing till i was blue in the face,
    i tried all kinds of fuel's and additives ,
    i did the fuel pressure regulator on my manual pump.
    didn't help.
    i went threw the shut fuel off solenoid game
    *i guess i must note here that i have the Weber 32/36 Dfev with Electric Choke*
    which btw they don't make one for this model.
    after fighting this for for over 2 mo,s i have finally found the right combination of stuff that so far is working.
    i went on ebay and got a 7mm spacer not the 1 inch s-l1600.jpg put on it and low and behold so far after testing it over the last few days everything is working great.
    i ran it up the interstate @ 75-80 mph made sure the engine got hot, not boiling mind you but within specs.
    ran it up and down hills everything shifted out perfect better than before.
    came back home shut it off.
    no run on/dieseling. none not even once.
    took it out @ differnet times of the day early in the morning late in the afternoon etc, etc, etc,
    the little truck even seems to have more pickup.
    still no run on/dieseling.
    the only thing i can figure out is the carb was getting way to hot.
    of course i could be wrong on this.
    Here is a few tips to anyone that decides to tackle a weber carb on theses little trucks.
    one of the main problems i have ran into is the 4 bolts that on the carb to the adapter plate 3 of them are ok to get to but that that 4th one under the throttle linkage is a monster. DSC03044.jpg
    so i came up with an ideal that hopefully will help someone in the future what i done was take the bolts and using my cut off blade cut a slit in the very top of the bolt so that i could use a long flat head screw driver to screw it down into the adapter plate.

    {{now i know what your going to say put the bolts in before seating the carb down on the adapter well thats all fine and good but i didn't know just how much threads i was going to have after putting on the extra 7mm spacer luckily there was enough.}}

    now if i have to take off the carb and the nut hangs then i can unscrew it from the plate and get down to business .
    i came across this because after putting on the 7 mm spacer i had to tighten the nuts down a bit and when i did i found out that i hadn't got the threaded bolt far enough down in the plate to hold.
    it acted like it was stripped out talk about making my butt pucker i just knew that i was fixing to have to re-thread the plate and i was not looking forward to that believe me.
    so once i seen that it was just a matter of not being down deep enough to thread itself i proceeded to try and screw the thread bolt on down in there well that went no where fast i wasn't going to take the whole carb off for just that one bolt.
    so after spending about 2 hrs working
    * i forgot to mention that the bolt was the one under the linkage btw of course*
    to get the bolt out cutting my fingers on the threads and having a pain in my back from hell i finally got it out.
    thats when i came up with the ideal of cutting a slit in the top to use a flat headed screw driver to put it back. took about 45 secs to run it back in place popped the nut on tighten the nut down and was good to go.
    i hope that someone reads this and it helps them after all that is what this forum is all about helping.
    not being a mister know it, all not being mr wizard ,just plain old get down and dirty, finger cutting, elbow banging, back hurting, head scratching, sleepiness nights , do-it-yourselfers.
    so until the next little headache comes along lol happy trucking

  2. #2

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    This may well be the reason why a lot of guys have trouble with installing the Weber - that spacer. When I pulled the 34 DATA off a wrecked Lancia it had that spacer on it and even the factory Mikuni has a thick spacer underneath it. So here's a couple of theories I'll throw into the mix on what the fat @ss spacer does. James may be onto something by thinking it acts as a 'thermal shield' between the hot manifold and the carb. The spacer may also act as an 'air brake', slowing down the air velocity passing through the carb. There are a couple of vacuum galleries that open into the throttle ports and not having adequate exposure into the manifold plenum to may also have some effect on dieselling.

    btw modifying the studs was a stroke of simplistic genius James - and congrats on finally beating this problem! Perseverance pays

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    This may well be the reason why a lot of guys have trouble with installing the Weber - that spacer. When I pulled the 34 DATA off a wrecked Lancia it had that spacer on it and even the factory Mikuni has a thick spacer underneath it. So here's a couple of theories I'll throw into the mix on what the fat @ss spacer does. James may be onto something by thinking it acts as a 'thermal shield' between the hot manifold and the carb. The spacer may also act as an 'air brake', slowing down the air velocity passing through the carb. There are a couple of vacuum galleries that open into the throttle ports and not having adequate exposure into the manifold plenum to may also have some effect on dieselling.

    btw modifying the studs was a stroke of simplistic genius James - and congrats on finally beating this problem! Perseverance pays
    thank you sir on the kind words i was told along time ago if you have a hard job to do get a lazy man to do it he will find the quickest ezest way to get it done lol well guess what

  4. #4

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    Hmmmm I had a spacer on the Weber I replaced. I did not put it back in. The new one seems to be running much better I can't say yet if the spacer has any effect on mine but I have a manual trans. Maybe that had something to do with the over revving and feeling like the throttle was stuck the other evening in slow traffic?

  5. #5

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    High idle RPM is also a cause of engine run-on. Make sure your throttle cable isn't binding and the cable is aligned with the linkages. You may need an extra helper return spring hooked up to it. Having the throttle jam open will put you in a scary place when you need it least.

  6. #6

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    OK for the second time since I installed the new carb the afternoon heat has caused it to rev up and idle high and even start to accelerate the truck. I think that spacer may be an insulator as JamesW says to isolate the carb from the manifold heat. I'm going to put it back in when I catch up with my other chores. I'll report back.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    OK for the second time since I installed the new carb the afternoon heat has caused it to rev up and idle high and even start to accelerate the truck. I think that spacer may be an insulator as JamesW says to isolate the carb from the manifold heat. I'm going to put it back in when I catch up with my other chores. I'll report back.
    don't know if that is the fix but all i know is it worked for me i mean it does make sense if you think about it i mean the original Mitsubishi carb had that big thick spacer on it that may have been the reason. like i said i used the 7mm you may have to go bigger like the one inch. one thing i did have to do after installing the spacer was i had to readjust my kick out cable but thats because i have a automatic transmission but that wasn't any trouble at all to do. but so far it seems to be working like i said i have way more power may be just my wish fully thinking keeping my fingers crossed lol

  8. #8

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    I installed it last week and had a couple hot days and the issue seems to have resolved. So I guess that spacer probably does provide insulation that helps isolate the Weber from the intake manifold heat. I soaked it and the gaskets on it in oil before putting it in as per the instructions for installing the new Weber.
    I feel like I learned this once before and am learning it again because of the same choice not to reinstall it after having the carb off. ????

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