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Thread: overheat?

  1. #26



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    the ball sits on the top of the switch and will fall out when you unscrew the switch. Did the switch have wires on it or did you solder them on? You may have bridged or shorted out the switch with the solder or the heat to solder. If you have a voltmeter check it for continuity - plunger in would turn it on, plunger out should be off.
    Pennyman1
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  2. #27

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    The original switch I cut the wires to expecting I could reconnect them. This switch is brand new, I did not know wbout the bearing when I did the throwout several years ago. I might try backing it out and see if it goes out since it must be depressing the plunger if the light is on. No?
    Thanks. It will be a few days before I can get to it. For anyone following it takes a 19mm open end wrench.

  3. #28

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    The reversing switch needs the ball bearing to function. The switch plunger pin won't make contact with the selector rod. If you think the radiator is still clogged with crap you can try an old school trick. Take the radiator out, completely drain it and lie it down with the outlets facing up and the rad cap on. Mix up a strong solution of citric acid powder and hot water and fill the radiator to it's capacity and let it sit for a few hours. Drain the radiator solution into a bucket so you can use it again if need be and if you have a pressure cleaner, blast it into the radiator bottom outlet to reverse flush all the dissolved debris through the top outlet. This won't harm the radiator but should be strong enough to break down sediment in the radiator to the point where it can dislodge from the cores.

    *make sure all the solution is drained from the radiator and flushed out as, although this won't harm copper or ferrous metals, it will attack alloys and cast alu parts.

  4. #29

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    Geez how would the bearing work then? Does that mean the plunger being depressed is the off position? What size is that bearing and is it a part I can get? I guess I'll have to look myself. EDIT- I looked in my FSM and the only mention of the backup light in the transmission chapter is to disconnect the harness when preparing to remove the trans. I'm gonna need help here. I'll post in the shout box hopefully someone knows how to replace that bearing. -End Edit 2nd EDIT- I posted this in the shout box as well. The FSM says in step two of disassembly (pg 21-6) "Remove the backup light switch. Be careful not to lose the steel ball." No mention of size or part number. Anyone feel like taking theirs out and sizing it for me please End 2nd Edit.

    The radiator is new only a couple of years and less than 5K miles old I have also added the fan shroud which it never had when I bought it. I replaced the rad when I blew the head on the overheat. When I felt the fins the air was being sucked through very strongly. I think I need a readout temp gauge on it like Camoit said so I can pay attention to how hot the coolant is at the thermostat after it opens.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 08-14-2017 at 01:56 PM.

  5. #30



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    I had a spare ball new in a bag - I have to find it to measure it - also have a spare tranny, but not sure if the switch is still in it.
    Pennyman1
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  6. #31

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    The bearing is like a spacer that sits in the end of the switch recess. The actuator rod passes across it's path and pushes the bearing back into the recess, and in turn pushes the switch plunger in. Radiator is good so that is off the list. For appearances sake the system is working properly. Is it worth your time to replace the temp sender unit, disconnect the factory temp gauge and run a digital temp gauge? A few extra gauges are a good idea. An idiot light will only tell you something is wrong when it's happening.

  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    I had a spare ball new in a bag - I have to find it to measure it - also have a spare tranny, but not sure if the switch is still in it.
    That would be very awesome Pennyman1.

    What are good brand names for gauges? It is hard to get good quality gauges.

  8. #33

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    I don't think buying gauges by name will yield better results. Some gauges have an adjustment to decrease the percentage of inaccuracy and at the end of the day they do 2 things - read resistance or read voltage. It probably depends as much on the sender unit as it does on the gauge (unless it is cheap-@ss garbage then don't expect it work well or long) You will find a lot of gauges are the same manufacturer but different brands. Summit seems to have a good rep and deals on ebay are pretty good. All comes down to what gauges you need and the look. Even if they aren't super accurate you can tell at first glance if something is up with the engine or charging system depending on what you've installed.

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