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Thread: When Weber carb, headers/ exhaust, and intake is done, what next?

  1. #1

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    When Weber carb, headers/ exhaust, and intake is done, what next?

    So my '80 D50 Sport is in the shop right now getting the motor rebuilt, cold air intake, new headers, Flow Master duel exhaust, electric fuel pump, ignition coil, distributor (assembly, cap, rotor, and vacuum advance), leveling the suspension, replacing brush guard with black OEM front bumper, removing rear bumper, and installing Toyota 5 lug caps. I hope I can find some decent wheels to put on and maybe get some better handling.

    But first and for most, what are people's predictions of the hp and torque? What expectations should I have from what I have done so far, including what's being done now? Aside from what I have listed, I have installed a 32/36 Weber Carb, new radiator, new plugs (which are probably destroyed now after seeing oil shoot out from the tube coming from the exhaust), new plug wires, and new ECM.

    After doing all this I am curious to see how much power I'm going to be pulling out of that motor. If I feel it's necessary, what can I do next to add some power and help it get up and go?
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    Last edited by OCD Boss; 10-18-2011 at 10:56 PM.

  2. #2



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    with the stock cam, you should see about 140 horses and 180ish torque. Lighten the flywheel and have the rotating assembly balanced, and then decide if you want to go w/o the balance shafts - adds 10-15 horses. to really wake up the motor, call oregon cam grinders and get a reground cam for it- there is a thread on here about a similar build that he is using one of their cams. Add an electric fan for 5-10 more horses.
    Pennyman1
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    how are you doing a cold air intake on the carb ?? What is a ECM ??? Did you do any gasket matching ??

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    Port the head for better air flow and get stronger valve springs to allow it to rev higher. get new pistons and go for a minimum 10:1 compression

  5. #5



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    Quote Originally Posted by LSR Mike View Post
    Port the head for better air flow and get stronger valve springs to allow it to rev higher. get new pistons and go for a minimum 10:1 compression
    Hay,, Don't give him any ideas,,, He just might make it go faster then you. Then you will need to work get your record back. But that salt would clash with the yellow.
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  6. #6

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    Cool

    I am looking at 2 different cold air intake options. Option "A" that I'm looking at is a universal, put together tubing that benefits by not being metal. It seems to be a better grade of quality than most, and I can shape it the way I want. But it would be a more expensive rout since it doesn't come with the plenum.

    http://www.airaid.com/ComingSoonProd...e-dca9a93bd649

    Option "B" that I'm looking at is another universal that comes with everything, but it's downfall is it is metal.

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=219306

    Either way though I still need to get the adapter, that makes the Weber 32/36 into a universal 5 1/8 carb hat.

    Anyway I think I'm going to go ahead and add to my list of things being done pennyman's suggestions first. I figure if I have the engine already being pulled all part now, I might as well do all the basics now.

    pennyman - Thank you for the info as always. Your always on point with your info!

    LiL Bastard - No I didn't do any gasket matching, the carb kit that I got came with everything. ECM stands for Electronic Control Module. It is a small piece that sits on the side of your distributor.

    LSR Mike - I definitely will go that road eventually, but just trying to get the main stuff on track, and on the road first. Then after I break in the new rebuilt motor, I'll look into port and polish. However, you mentioned stronger valve springs. Where would I find them, and would that be as simple as it sounds if I'm already having the motor rebuilt as it is? Anyway, I know that the cylinders are getting bored out some. I don't know how much yet. I put that in the mechanic's hands. He is going to let me know in the estimate exactly how much though soon.

    camoit - You guys are just lucky I'm too far away. I'd come down and give it a shot. Especially after new tires and suspension work! Even though I plan to paint it a new color, I would do it before hand just cause you said something. Not to mention I wouldn't want that salt all over my brand new paint anyway.

  7. #7



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    The kit looks like irrigation, or drainage pipe we use for off road racing. PVC or ABS works well also. I can't tell you how many time we made an intake system out of PVC.
    As for the porting you should do it before you put it back together. At least port the head. That is where you will get the biggest change in volume-metric efficiency and HP.
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  8. #8


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    If you have some fabrication skills you can make a plenum out of some light gauge sheet metal then have it powder coated for a few bucks. then go to your local speed shop and get a few pieces of 3" U or J bends (walker/dynomax) to make the tubes.Grab a K&N filter or 2 and you have a custom set up.

  9. #9

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    How about decking the head .030 to .050 That will raise the compression.



    mike

  10. #10



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    Shaving the head can be tricky on these heads - the service limit is .015, but you can shave more if you use dished starquest pistons. Engine machine services has the stronger valve springs for the 2.6 - he is all over the starquest forum. Schneider cams makes springs for the 2.6 also. There are also 1mm o/s valves that have undercut stems that improve flow greatly, but may be hard to find as they may be discontinued.
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  11. #11



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    Here is what I found out about the head.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/vi...p?f=105&t=1181

    2.6L first gen Head 54.50 CC
    2.0L first gen Head 55.90 CC
    Measured head thickness. Head gasket surface to valve cover surface.
    NEW: 3.543 - 3.548 inches
    Minimum 3.523 inches. Anything less your head is junk.

    If the head is thinner then the cam trimming starts to be affected and goes retarded. This can be compensated by a thick head gasket. there is 3 thickness of head gaskets.
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  12. #12

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    Ok..... so for those of you that didn't see the follow up of the posting "what's holding her back?", looks like I'm doing a full rebuild on her earlier than I thought. So with that being said, I would like to do this right the first time. I need thoughts on how I should build this to give me the most power, but also the most longevity out of this motor. I like the idea of the cam grinding and the porting, but I really don't like the idea of going to the extent of oversize boring. I would like to keep the stock engine size, just want it to "be all it can be". So if you guys have suggestions on places I can find the parts to make this happen, or places you recommend the services for porting or shaving the head, I would love to hear them. Heck I was even thinking about picking up a whole new head for the hell of it if I could find one cheap enough.

    Pennyman, I still plan on calling Oregon Cam Grinders. I checked out their website, and I think that they will be perfect.

    Thanks everyone for all the great info so far! You guys have been a major help in getting me going in fixing this D50 Sport up.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by OCD Boss View Post
    Ok..... so for those of you that didn't see the follow up of the posting "what's holding her back?", looks like I'm doing a full rebuild on her earlier than I thought. So with that being said, I would like to do this right the first time. I need thoughts on how I should build this to give me the most power, but also the most longevity out of this motor. I like the idea of the cam grinding and the porting, but I really don't like the idea of going to the extent of oversize boring. I would like to keep the stock engine size, just want it to "be all it can be". So if you guys have suggestions on places I can find the parts to make this happen, or places you recommend the services for porting or shaving the head, I would love to hear them. Heck I was even thinking about picking up a whole new head for the hell of it if I could find one cheap enough.

    Pennyman, I still plan on calling Oregon Cam Grinders. I checked out their website, and I think that they will be perfect.

    Thanks everyone for all the great info so far! You guys have been a major help in getting me going in fixing this D50 Sport up.

    So I forgot to mention the whole reason why I am asking about rebuilding the motor after I said I had it in the shop. It is because I had a change of heart with my mechanic. I ended up pulling my truck back out, and waiting due to the fact that I was having troubles with my '99 Chevy Blazer he had worked on. Matter of a fact, I'm still having issues, but that's another story. So now I have another guy that is going to help me who is a mechanic with all the tools, but he wants me to get all the parts together first. So I'm just trying to do some homework and do this right.

  14. #14

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    mostly starion/conquest specific parts, but you could use some as well.
    http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html

  15. #15

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    I'm a bit late in commenting, but I've been on vacation and otherwise busier than the proverbial one-legged man in an ass-kicking contest...then I started playin some video games...

    ANYWAY, call the old man at Oregon Cam, he has a LIGHT street grind for our engines on file. Cost I believe was $70 with your cam (new cam is ~$125+$70 for grind, worth every penny). This isn't gonna turn yer truck into a race car, but will certainly pep things up a bit.

    Rick's Cylinder Head near me has an OEM head sitting in the box. He sold me mine for just under $400 with a light (street) polish, valves and such installed (no rockers or assembly). May be sending it back to have the valves ported and some SS valves installed in a few months (no garage and crappy Oregon winter weather, nuf said?)!

    BTW, still want that bumper badly. Some time when my job ceases to be hell, need to talk to you about either me gettin up there or a way to get it down to me.

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