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Thread: What is supposed to be here?

  1. #1

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    What is supposed to be here?

    Pic at end of post
    It was plugged off and that plug was broken when I redid the head. I now realize this may be why I blew that head. The side port is part of the water system, that hose coming down is from the heater core. Where should the hose that wants to be where the cap is go to?
    If you don't know where the hose should lead to, do yo know what kind of cap I can get that won't give out from the heat? I feel lucky this happened right when I got home and stopped. The intermittent wiring fault to the dash was on and I had no temp gauge this morning.
    The cap been on about 3 years but I have driven less than 2K miles in that time so its not like it was going to work out for me if I had started using this daily. I got these caps at Knecht's and they are supposed to take the heat. I'm thinking they must make caps out of pure silicon, anyone know where?

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  2. #2



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    That plugged line went to the original water choke on the Mikuni carb. That is not needed for anything else. That port on Geronimo is plugged off with an industrial fitting that was tapped and threaded into the side port. You can unscrew that whole fitting from the manifold and use a brass plug from a hardware store - just tap the side port and thread it in using Teflon pipe thread dope, not Teflon tape.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  3. #3

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    Thank You pennyman1. I'll save that option for now. I could not for the life of me find a silicon blanking cap at any parts store. I found a variety pack high temp silicon caps (600 degrees should be plenty) on eBay for $12 and ordered it. As it is I have another neoprene cap on it.
    I had lost water and sucked air into the motor! I let it cool and opened up the rad to add water (motor running heater on fan blowing) and it took more than a quart for sure. Then when it warmed up it took more a little at a time and for 15 minutes it would sit for a bit then start coming out the rad so I would rev it up and it would go down to just above the core then when I let off the water would rise to the top of the filler neck over flowing and a bunch of air bubbles came out. I think I got it all the temp gauge when it chose to work didn't get much past 1/2 nowhere near the red on three heavy loads.

  4. #4

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    You can remove the coolant barb and replace it with a brass fitting. Available at most auto shops (got a feeling it's the same as the coolant barb used on Ford, Chev etc) Eliminates the risk of the coolant barb cap from failing/blowing off. I am using one for my Weber install as the water choke connection won't be needed (once I convert it to electric choke)

  5. #5

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    I don't suppose anyone remembers the size of the fitting they used? The caps came and were longer than I expected but I have it on now. If you need anything from hightempmasking.com they gave me a discount code "vip2017" for 10% of everything until 2018.
    EDIT- I got the new K610 carb today. I haven't unboxed it yet I just took out the instructions. In it it tells me to use a supplied 8MM barb for the water choke hole. So it either plugs the tee or it replaces the tee fitting. I'll get to it later.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 07-19-2017 at 01:06 PM.

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